C-4 Kickdown Need or Optional

Aside from WOT pedal mashes, what else does the kickdown do for you and do I really need it?

My C-4 didn't have it from the PO and with doing a C-4 rebuild should I install it?

I ran mine without one until I replaced my wiring harness. I added the neutral safety switch while doing the harness and decided while I was under there working in that area I would install BCB's kickdown cable.

You can do the same thing by pulling the shifter into 2nd and then shifting back into high, but this way you don't have to remember or judge when you need to. You are a lot less likely to be lugging (may be a Mississippi word ??) the engine when passing a car on the highway if you have it installed.

C-4 Kick-down linkage. Do I need it?

First let me begin by saying that the torque converter is the single most generator of HEAT on your C-4, it causes the transmission fluid to get HOT. The fluid is most responsible for keeping the rest of the transmission at a stable temperature. With that being said, it would be in your best interest to keep the transmission fluid at a desirable temperature, between 160-220. This is important for adding longevity to the trans and it’s ATF. The torque converter will generate more heat when stalling under a load than when it is not working hard. If you put your engine under a high torque demand at low rpms without downshifting to a lower gear, you will cause more torque converter heat than if the transmission is downshifted to the next lower gear.

Caution: You can shorten the life of a C-4 and the fluid by not having a properly operating detent valve (kick-down) but it depends on the driver. If you don't force a downshift manually when needed like pulling a steep grade, you can cook the fluid and overheat the trans. Stalling the converter for long periods over 15 seconds generates uncontrollable heat inside the converter which has slower and much longer temprature recovery time. If you don't have a habit of manually forcing downshifts when needed, it might be better to either change your driving habits or hook up the linkage. With the kick-down linkage operating and properly adjusted, you lessen your chances of lugging the motor and causing all kinds of unnecessary torque converter heat build-up. You can always manually downshift it to avoid the TC heat, but in the manual 2nd & low ranges it will make the transmission operate at maximum main-line hydraulic pressures constantly, causing the potential of working the pump harder than normal, thus shortening the life of the pump at a faster rate.

Engine Temps affected:
The transmission temp does affect the overall temp of the engine. Even if you completely isolate the ATF from the radiator you will still have a massive amount of torque converter heat built up in the Bell Housing area, which will contribute to heat build up in the back of the engine. By adding an auxiliary transmission cooler and making sure your Kick-down linkage is working properly, you are helping the transmission to operate at much lower temperatures. It is your choice but every little bit helps. By keeping the transmission temperature stabilized you have a better chance at keeping your engine cool as well.

With higher torque engines like that of stroked 302s and 351s, these effects that generate heat will be intensified.

~BH~

Amen Broncohowie!! I heard the sermon and understand.

Now I just gotta figure how to hook up the kickdown rod to the Edelbrock 1405 carb..

My primary focus has been driving Michigan sand dunes and there the we usually run in 2nd gear uphill.

I never had one on the C-4. It worked perfect.

Well, you don't actually NEED one. That being said, I'm much happier with the way my rig drives now that I've put one in. No more having to remember to downshift.

Do they make a kickdown lever from a c4 to a 5.0?

You'll need to get a cable. Lokar makes one that runs about $65 - $80. Here's a picture of one.

In all my EB's I have never had the kick down work except passing? It is only a WOT thing, otherwise it shifts by vacumn?

I don't have a passing gear because im in 3rd gear already @ 15mph...something is wrong.

DuneBuster said:

Amen Broncohowie!! I heard the sermon and understand.
Now I just gotta figure how to hook up the kickdown rod to the Edelbrock 1405 carb..

My primary focus has been driving Michigan sand dunes and there the we usually run in 2nd gear uphill.

Click to expand...

B&M Kit

iwlbcnu said:

In all my EB's I have never had the kick down work except passing? It is only a WOT thing, otherwise it shifts by vacumn?

Click to expand...

With 35's and 4:11's, I have to hit WOT more often than you'd think if I need to make a lane change to get off the freeway or get past some traffic. But yes - it's 90% a WOT thing. Most of the time, the vacuum signal will control the shifting instead.

DuneBuster said:

Amen Broncohowie!! I heard the sermon and understand.

Now I just gotta figure how to hook up the kickdown rod to the Edelbrock 1405 carb..

My primary focus has been driving Michigan sand dunes and there the we usually run in 2nd gear uphill.

Click to expand...

Im not sure which carb the 1405 is, but I have a stock kickdown rod hooked up to my Edelbrock 1400 carb. I can take a pic if necessary. If not, call Edelbrock tech, and they can probably hook you up.

A pic would be great... It would also help before calling Edelbrock..

Thanks ahead of time...

I used the Lokar piece. It came with a sweet SS cable and linkage for the trans. Add your own carb mount, adjust it and enjoy. Installation was a piece of cake!

Jeff

If you never go wide open throttle then you don't need one.
If you run wide open for more then a couple seconds and it doesn't downshift on its own with (lack of) vacuum, then you need one.

DuneBuster said:

A pic would be great... It would also help before calling Edelbrock..

Thanks ahead of time...

Click to expand...

I dont think I'm able to post a pic here yet. Send me an email, and I will email the pic to you.