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D44 Disassembly

pmctighe

Sr. Member
Joined
May 30, 2006
Messages
361
I have been disambling the Chevy D44 for parts and got everything off except the knuckles. I got the castle nuts and interior nuts off ok and even tapped the knuckle a bit to try and knock it lose but I wasn't very secure in doing so. Here is my question, The top ball joint appears to be connected to both the housing and the knuckle with another nut/retaining ring looking thing that appears to need a special socket like the spindle nuts, does this need to be removed? Is this just how the ball joint is held to the knuckle? Do I need a ball joint removal tool? The axle is from a '73 Chevy.

Bonus question, when I removed the hub the passenger side kneedle bearing was trashed. Looks like it ran dry. The spindle has some ripples on it, can this be machined back to smooth or is the spindle trashed?

Thanks for the help.

Patrick
 

bronco69drp

Jr. Member
Joined
May 9, 2004
Messages
149
Loc.
Cordova TN(memphis)
that is a threaded eccentric sleeve used to for alignment adjustments. it does not need to come out. your knuckle is just being stubborn. if you have the upper & lower nuts off, just put the upper nut on upside down leave a few threads above the ball joint to protect it & smack the crap out of the top of the nut with a BFH. once you knock it loose the nut will keep the knuckle from falling. ;D
 

73bronco

Sr. Member
Joined
May 10, 2007
Messages
936
I just dis-assembled a 44 tonight. Take both the upper and lower nuts off the ball joints then put the upper nut back on the upper ball joint a couple threads. Take your BFH and hit the C once on the end of the housing where the upper ball joint goes in it. Then simply hit the C where the lower ball joint goes in until the knuckle falls. It took me about 3 hits. Good luck. As far as the spindle goes chances are the spindle is fine. Just needs a new needle bearing installed once you get the old one out. If you are not replacing the ball joints then I highly recommend that you do not hit the ends of any of them as that does destroy them in very short order.
 
OP
OP
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pmctighe

Sr. Member
Joined
May 30, 2006
Messages
361
That is basically what I started to do then I got cold feet and thought I better check. I tried to flip the castle nut and had trouble so I tried with it unflipped but high enough to protect the ball joint. I'll try again and see what happens.

If I hit the C do I risk damaging the knuckle?

Thanks for the info.

Patrick
 

SaddleUp

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 23, 2004
Messages
9,655
Loc.
Vancouver, WA
Smack away. Be sure to just hit the housing only though. (Don't hit the knuckle and don't hit the top of the ball joint unless you enjoy trying to get the nut back off after it smashes the threads) Usually you can smack just the top one and it will drop after about 3 hits. If not then turn the knuckle back and hit the bottom (housing end) a couple of times and that should do it.

Don't try to remove the preload bushing until the knuckle is removed. Doing so you will just succeed in ruining the tool you either bought or made for pulling it out. While it is possible to use offset ones to adjust castor and camber the main purpose of these are for preload on the ball joints and normally they are not used for it. When you replace the ball joints they will come with a new one which should be used unless yours are offset. (In which case I would go ahead and use them anyway and then have it aligned telling them that it originally had an offset bushing in the top balljoint)
 

la77

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2004
Messages
487
Loc.
Alexandria LA
just incase you want to make your own tool for installing the new little insert when replacing ball joints. I took an old socket matching the size of the insert and used a grinder to grind away leaving the extrusions like the proper tool has. if you ever find yourself replacing ball joints and don't have that handy little tool.
 
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