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Steering Slop

ebronco66

New Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2005
Messages
33
Loc.
Moody, AL
Okay... I have read through many of the threads dealing with slop in the steering and have picked up on some of what was said... But I must give away my ignorance here on this topic. Since purchasing my 66 4 yrs ago it has had slop. Doesn't seem to get worse, but when I am going around an on ramp greater than say 50 mph there is definitely some movement that I have just gotten used to... but, I know it is not normal.

I have done some research and I think most of the excess movment is coming from the joints in the linkage that are greased(can someone please tell me what these are called;D) What I have no clue about is how to tell if these joints have gone bad and if they can be replaced or fixed or if the whole linkage must be replaced? I am trying to get this thing in better shape so that I will feel comfortable taking my little girl for Bronco rides that she begs for every day! Thanks for bearing with my ignorance.
 

fordtrucks4ever

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Messages
1,280
Loc.
DFW
If the tierod ends have play then they are bad. You can squeeze them with a big pair of channellock pliers to check for wear. You can also get someone to barely move the steering wheel back and forth. Just a little more than the freeplay when sitting still. Look at the linkage ends. Any rod end that doesnt move exactly the same amount as rest of the linkage or componects is bad. A `66 model has that big adjustable tractor joint attached to steering box. If its all rusted in the ball socket, then replace with a new one. These are adjustable, but 40+ years of neglect doesnt always leave much to adjust.
 

Dan76

Sr. Member
Joined
May 17, 2006
Messages
895
I agree jack it up get someone to turn the wheel and look for play in the steering box, and joints.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,344
I agree jack it up get someone to turn the wheel and look for play in the steering box, and joints.

I'm gonna' have to disagree with you here Dan. Jacking it up to do the test doesn't do the complete job. With no weight or resistance on the tires, you won't see ALL the loose spots.
Rather, with the full weight of the vehicle on the ground, you'll get a much better indication of what's really going on. This way it puts enough torque on things to even see if there are small cracks in the frame or a loose track-bar mount.

Paul
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,608
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Jacking it up helps if you're alone. Then you can shake parts around from underneath and look for play.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,344
I have done some research and I think most of the excess movment is coming from the joints in the linkage that are greased(can someone please tell me what these are called;D)

A little more info so you know what you're talking about if looking for replacements is necessary. As mentioned, the joints themselves are called tierod ends. Or just rod ends.
Some are just individual rod ends. Others are part of a longer rod so you have to buy the whole thing. Most of them are not rebuildable, so new ones are in order if the old ones are worn.
There are stock replacements and upgraded aftermarket units. Deciding what you're going to do with the Bronco in the future can help you decide which way to go now.

The actual rod assemblies are called:

1) Tierod. This is the straight one that connects to the two wheels at the steering knuckle/arm (more names to remember).

2) Draglink. This is the diagonal one connecting the tie rod to the pitman arm (another piece that you'll be tested on later) attached to the steering box.

3) Track-bar (Ford's name for a "Panhard" rod or bar) which is the heavier diagonal bar bolted to the axle housing at it's lower end and the frame at it's upper end.

This last one, although not officially part of the steering system, is literally part of the function of the steering AND suspension systems. If you were to turn the steering wheel while this is disconnected, the truck's body would move side to side and the tires would barely move!
It uses replaceable bushings at each end and those are one of the most commonly replaced parts of a Bronco/F150 it seems. A little wear here makes for quite a bit of "wandering" feel in the steering.

The '66 through '75 models use what's referred to as an "Inverted-T" system which describes (somewhat vaguely and with your eyes crossed) how it looks. The '76 and '77 models use an "Inverted-Y" system.
A little more info than you probably want or need. But now you'll know the difference if it comes up.

Paul
 

ObscureMachine

Seatbelt Orifice Officer
Joined
Sep 28, 2006
Messages
3,998
Loc.
World Headquarters
I had steering slop and thought it might be the trac-bar bushing. But when I got under it and had my wife move the steering wheel back and forth, I found the real culprit.

My frame where the steering box attached had cracked and when pressure was applied to the steering (turning the steering wheel) the slop was caused by the steering box moving "through" the broken frame as it flexed. Very un-nerving! It's being fixed now and I can't wait to see how it will actually steer.
 

jedblake

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
659
Loc.
Boulder City, NV
I had the same thing on my 66 for years. I had to rebuild the "bell" mounted to the bottom of my steering shaft/top of steeringbox. There are also about two bearings and a seal that end up wearing out mounted around the shaft up by the fire wall.
Becareful w/ taking apart, many of the seals will be brittle and fall apart. Trip to the junkyard for some donor seals and a call to Tom's Broncos for the rebuild kits.
You can do it yourself, pretty staright forward and not that much money
 
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