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Frame Off Resto on a Rotisserie

RadioFlyer

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Messages
114
I looked at the tech article on the rotisserie and noted that it tells you to cut off the front inner fenders and front clip... My question is: Why would one want to do this? If cut, do you re-attach the same fanders later? Re-attach new?

So I sandblast and paint seperate, then weld back together off the rotisserie? It doesn't make sense...
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,490
I see no reason to seperate the front clip. I put mine on a roto and never took the front off. No problems

Bax
 

Dave

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
2,190
Absolutly no reason to cut it up unless it is too rusted out to support itself. Here is what I learned after doing two of these. Start by dissassembling the removable body components, fuel tanks, wire harness, dash, engine compartment components, etc. Block the frame up level by its corners in a work area and verify that it is straight.

Unbolt (or cut) the 8 body mounts and replace them with new mounts or spacers to eliminate any squat form the old mounts.

Verify that the crossmembers are straight. Especially the one under the front floor boards. They tend to bend down if the floorboards are rusted out or have been replaced or repared. This will effect the front door post and rocker fit. If they have sagged you can gently jack them back up by placing a jack under the outer part of the cross member and applying some pressure. Don't crush anything. reinstalling the doors will verify that the gaps look good and the doors opperate like new if the hinges are good.

Now that the body is straight you can weld supports across the top of the door posts and one side to side on the supports about 6 inches ahead of the rear door post. This is about the center of ballance to lift the body off the frame with a engine hoist of A frame lift.

With the body still on the frame, do all of the structural body work such as floorpans, rockers, and door posts, etc. You can do some of the finish welding after it is on the rotissery.

My rotissery supports the body by the rear body mounts and the front mounts with a brace up to the top of the fire wall. I'm going to modify it to support the front by the front mounts and the next set back with a support from the top of the firewall to the new bracket inside of the engine compartment. This will allow me to install the front fenders, grill, and hood on the rotissery for fit and finishing.

The last pictures on the trailer are to and from the media blaster.

Hope you find some of this information usefull. There are many other methods that probably work as well. Good luck with your porject.

Dave...
 

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jghflys

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2007
Messages
117
Loc.
Texas
I did it with the front fender area still attached. I first repaired the problem area shown in the last picture with the body on the frame. Repair of this area on a rotisserie would probably lead to excessive flexing and alignment problems. You must weld support across the door openings and and across the tub at the rear of the the door openings before removing the body form the frame. I then lifted the body off the frame and attached the front and rear rotisserie supports to the front and rear most body mount attachments. Because I was going to do repair on the kick panels, door posts (repairs not replacement) and replace the floors. I added a 1-1/4, 3/16 thick tubing support between the front and floor area body mount locations welded to the front rotisserie supports. I also bolted the other end of the tubing to the floor body mount location using a piece of angle iron welded to the tubing. The tubing was stiff enough to provide additional support while doing the repairs I mentioned.

Hope this helps,

James
 

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RadioFlyer

RadioFlyer

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Messages
114
THANK YOU! Great information, thanks for taking the time... The body I have doesn't have enough rust to justify cutting the inners and front off.

So, I guess now its time to come clean.... I have a fab shop at my business. So Ol Newbie here had them make the rotisserie based on the design in the tech article herein. It was only after they finished that I caught the whole instruction on removing the front fenders... I guess I have some mods to do on the brand new rotisserie...

Thanks again!
 

hammer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 13, 2006
Messages
1,359
I would sleeve the tube that runs down the middle and make it adjustable. That way after your done with it and don't want it anymore you could sell it easy.
 

Madgyver

Contributor
Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
14,679
Must be nice to have a fab shop at your expense....

Hand over the design, order the task, Pick it up a day later......:D
 

tml

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Messages
886
Loc.
Ontario, Canada
here's mine..
 

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fordtrucks4ever

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Messages
1,280
Loc.
DFW
I would bet the reason it was suggested to cut the front clip is to make it removable. I think there is a tech article on it. You simply use a plate to bolt back to the tub and clip.
 

Crude dude

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2012
Messages
136
I know this post is way old but I wanted to ask RadioFlyer if the Bronco rolled ok on that rotisserie? Im in the process of designing a rotisserie and I have not decided yet on how to make the spinning/ pivot piece. I have an engine stand with that same design and sometimes its a real bear to roll just an engine block over. Anyone have any ideas?
 

broncorick

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2004
Messages
967
Rotisserie

I made the front arm attach to the body mounts on the font and then extended to the tub mounts. That way clip is intact and body is well supported. Definitely make the frame so you can vary the length of the rotisserie to make it friendly for a multitude of cars. Mine is currently holdinh a 1962 Jaguar e-type!
 

Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
Here is ours.

After looking at different designs and what we would have in materials and time, we decided to buy one from AutoTwiler.com (bought it at the Carlisle All-Ford Nationals so there was no shipping).

I then built a custom Bronco adapter that stands the body of 8 or 10 inches so you can get in and clean, scrap, blast and paint everywhere without having the frame in the way.

At first, I was going to use a Bronco frame, but decided that square tube was simpler, lighter, and less obtrusive to work around.

Works great and the frame I made can easily be adapted for other vehicles.

We also have a set of 10" pneumatic casters for it for when we need to roll it out in the driveway and load it on a trailer to take to our other shop.

I see no need to cut off the front clip, in fact, I would advise against it.
 

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myclsic69

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2009
Messages
368
I also used an Auto Twirler and an old Frame and had no issues.
Most Recommended for the guy with little $$$$$ for a Pro shop.
 

JIMS74

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Messages
412
Loc.
PORTSMOUTH, VA.
I was looking at making one when, I found a slightly used auto twirler on craigslist for 800 bucks could not buy the steel, casters, jacks and fasteners for that price. I am using a bronco frame and a 2" body lift.
 

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Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
If you have a spare frame it would certainly work fine as the support structure. I have some extra frames but chose not to for due to the added bulk and limited access between it and the body to work around and access for sand blasting, scraping, any potential cutting and welding, DA sanders, and painting. Having 6-8" between the support frame and the body helps a lot with this IMO.

However, if you only have the one frame and use it for the support, it confines the flexibility you have on your project. It is nice to be able to work on the rolling chassis and body as separate items so when one is stalled waiting on parts or some other work, you can work on the other.

We always knock out the rolling chassis first and have the engine, trans, suspension, fuel and brake lines, wiring, etc. all done and ready for the body to be dropped on when the body comes off the rotisserie after paint.

The frame we made probably only has $50 in material and maybe 4-5 hours to make it. But like I said, it is made so I can easily drill new holes and add new cross members with posts for any other vehicle, so it also adds greater flexibility than needing a spare frame for each vehicle we do use on the rotisserie. It also breaks down for when it is not in use so it is easily stored on my steel rack or in the rafters.

We pretty much only do Broncos, but we be doing a Corvette for a guy after the current Bronco is off of it.

Like was mentioned, when you add up the materials and time, to build one with the same features and flexibility, you are not that much ahead to build one from scratch than to buy some of the ready-built models. I think this one was about $1100 (bare steel, we painted it) at the time. There are import knock-offs that look identical that were $850 or so though places like Greg Smith Equipment, but it looks like those are now $995. The Auto Twirler Plus model is now $1299 in bare steel. They also make a basic model for under $1000.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Auto-SPINS-SIMPLE-POSITION-IN-SECONDS-Rotisserie

http://www.autotwirler.us/product-p/plus.htm

Whichever way you go, any of them beat the hell out of working on your back on the floor with crap falling in your face! ;D
 

BIG_UGLY75

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
112
Loc.
baytown
Wish i didnt have to..... Cancer got me.. Nothing that cant be cut and patched.. But i already know its gonna be a bitch to tack back on....
 

Crude dude

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2012
Messages
136
I will probably build one since mine already does not have the front inner fenders and supports. I will build one that is adjustable and when I am done I will try to sell it to recover some Bronco dough. I see that most all rotisserie have the "pipe in pipe" pivot points, does this work ok or is there some kind of a bearing setup in these that makes them roll easier?
 
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