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76 front axle bearing replacement

Dakotabound

New Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2006
Messages
29
Ok, my '76 has factory front disc brakes; I've got the warn unit off, the inner parts out, verified the outer bearing via looking at it--is shot! My problem is that I think this requires a puller to take off the rotor so that I can get to the bearings, right? If so, do I get the puller that uses the studs for a base and the axle center as the control? If not, how do I get the rotor off so I can achieve access to the bearings, etc.? I don't see anything inside this unit except that ring which has a slot which rides over the axle stub.

Gosh, I didn't think this would be so hard, but then again it may just be my age as senior man. Also, ideas as to who sells the best bearings, along with the races? Napa, Auto Zone, etc....got the right part numbers? And thanks for any do it your self help ideas and directions. Of course this baby is down in the driveway, which is dirt here in the country...you know, shade tree without the tree!
 

Devin

Bronco Kineticist
Joined
Apr 29, 2004
Messages
3,956
X2. If all of the inner stuff is out, it should come off.
 
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Dakotabound

New Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2006
Messages
29
Need a schematic of disc brakes

Guys, thanks for the advice, but I must still be confused. Is there somewhere on line I can go to see all the parts for the '76 right front disc brake and axle assy? I have the warn hub parts out except for a ring that is on the axle stub. I can see beyond this into the rotor where the roller bearings have broken out and are not aligned correctly. I can wiggle the rotor assy (I think you also call this the caliper?) but it won't come/slide off. If all the right parts have been removed to do this sliding off and it won't, then that suggests to me excessive heat has welded (in a limited way) this rotor to the axle shaft, right? Would a pulling device work to remove this? Slide hammer? Thanks for your input.
 

doghauler

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Dec 7, 2006
Messages
187
Loc.
Western WA State
"I have the warn hub parts out except for a ring that is on the axle stub."

Did you take the two retaining rings and lock washer off the spindle with a tool like this? (Tool on the right of photo)
 

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Dakotabound

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Jul 9, 2006
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doghauler, the inner ring has only one slot like the item in your pic on the left side. If I need a special tool like the one on the right, got an idea where to acquire one? If not a special tool, is there a "creative" mickey mouse way to remove that part? I got the outer unit off, used a snap ring to remove that part, then took out the ring outer tooth unit, out came that spring, with just the center over the axle left.
 

broncotime

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 30, 2003
Messages
1,186
Loc.
Grapevine, Texas
doghauler, the inner ring has only one slot like the item in your pic on the left side. If I need a special tool like the one on the right, got an idea where to acquire one? If not a special tool, is there a "creative" mickey mouse way to remove that part? I got the outer unit off, used a snap ring to remove that part, then took out the ring outer tooth unit, out came that spring, with just the center over the axle left.

You should be able to get the special tool at any autozone/napa/pep boys/etc. I think mine was less than $10. Just make sure it's the size that fits the Dana 44.
 

DirtDonk

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There have been pictures posted here somewhere of exploded views that should help you see what's in there. Hopefully someone knows where to search for it.

In the meantime though, the pieces you're looking at in the picture are the wheel bearing retaining/adjusting nuts and, as mentioned, they have to come off before you can remove your hub and rotor assembly (the rotor is the large round part that the brake caliper rides around and the hub is the inner, part with splines that all this stuff is inside of).
And normally once they're off, the rotor with the hub and all the bearings that are inside it will practically fall off in your hands. So have a nice clean piece of paper or rag nearby to lay it all down in. It is kinda' heavy, by any standards. Oh, and you should have the brake caliper removed as well so it will all slide off when you do get the retaining nuts off.

You mention Warn by name for the lockout (sometimes also referred to as a hub, or locking hub). Is it actually a Warn lockout? Or are you using the term generically? Reason I ask is that the stock locking hub assembly is different from a Warn or other aftermarket piece and so the procedure is different.
If it is a Warn, then you would have pulled the outer half off by removing the six allen screws. Then the inner assembly would have been removed by removing the small inner snap-ring from around the end of the axle shaft (assuming that there was still one there) and the large outer snap-ring hiding in a groove in the outer hub. It's usually hard to see in the grease, but it's there and you usually have to finnesse it with tiny picks or small screwdrivers.
The inner piece is a splined aluminum "slug" and has a small spring inside.
You mention a spring. There should be one attached to the outer cap and knob, and one inside the inner assembly that you can't normally see. Was there another one in there too?

Sorry to go through all that, since it sounds like you've gotten that far already. It's just that sometimes one piece can get left in and mess up your whole day.
If you're now looking at the outer nut like doghauler has in his picture, you're almost there. You can get that tool, called a hub nut wrench, or a wheel bearing socket, or several other names, at most auto parts stores these days. If you've got a larger chain store they might be more likely to have one.
But you can also try the old (and not recommended as proper) screwdriver method. If they're semi-loose you can turn them with the blade of a screwdriver or punch inserted into one of the four notches. Or even your finger tips if you can get them in there and it's loose.
If it comes out that way, great, but you're still going to eventually need that tool.
First one to come out is the outer lock nut, then the middle lock-washer that is just flat steel with an inner tang to line up with the groove in the spindle and a bunch of holes around it to line up with a pin on the inner adjusting nut. Last is the inner adjusting nut which has a small pin sticking out of one side. That side always faces outward, towards you.
Then you can pull the whole thing half-way off, grab the outer wheel bearing and set it aside and then pull the whole thing off.

When you do get it apart, let us know as there is a specific procedure for putting it back together and properly adjusting the bearings. You'll really need that big socket and a torque wrench to do it right though.

Good luck.

Paul
 

Gummi Bear

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Jul 8, 2003
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Here's the exploded view.
 

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Dakotabound

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Jul 9, 2006
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Thanks guys but there is only one notch on that unit inside the hub surrounding the splined axle, and it is at 9 oclock. I use the word warn as a standard, this is the factory hub, I may look at it tomorrow to see if it says warn. But what you are saying is that this notched item needs to be removed and it is accomplished through the act of turning. Or, stated another way, I am not to use a puller or a slide hammer system to remove the rotor with the wheel hub that has the bolts for the tire, right? As to the snap ring and the internal steel coiled lock ring, I have those out, along with the geared outer ring, the press bar (with two ears), and the big spring behind all that stuff. I'll look on this site for the pics. Again, thanks for the help!
 

Gummi Bear

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3,647
Use a pick and a lot of brake cleaner to blow some of the gunk out of there, so you can see what you're looking at. (put some newspaper or cardboard on the floor, it'll make a huge mess when the goop starts flowing)

You should next see the nut that uses the hub tool, if I'm understanding what you're describing...
 

DirtDonk

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there is only one notch on that unit inside the hub surrounding the splined axle, and it is at 9 oclock.

Hmm, strange. Never seen one with just one notch. I'm trying to picture what else it can be and drawing a blank at the moment.


I use the word warn as a standard, this is the factory hub, I may look at it tomorrow to see if it says warn. But what you are saying is that this notched item needs to be removed and it is accomplished through the act of turning. Or, stated another way, I am not to use a puller or a slide hammer system to remove the rotor with the wheel hub that has the bolts for the tire, right?

That is correct. No pullers or hammers (slide-type or otherwise) unless something is friction-welded from a bad bearing like you were mentioning earlier.
The notched thingies are not shown in the picture above but are just simple threaded nuts with standard righty-tighty, lefty-loosy threads. Instead of hex shaped heads, they're round with notches.


As to the snap ring and the internal steel coiled lock ring, I have those out, along with the geared outer ring, the press bar (with two ears), and the big spring behind all that stuff. I'll look on this site for the pics. Again, thanks for the help!

Your description of the press bar with the two ears says it's a stock Ford (Spicer) hub. The red knob (now pink with age no doubt) that you turn to lock and unlock the hubs should say "Ford" in the center of it. Warn didn't start making the factory hubs until a few years later.
Don't know what the "internal steel coiled lock-ring" would be though. Interesting.
(edit: Never mind. Figured out that the lock ring is just what you say it is. The outer lock ring that I was erroneously calling a snap-ring)

The general order of a stock hub removal is (and anybody correct me if I get something out of order).

First Stage - Lockout:
1. Outer actuating knob & chrome ring w/six allen bolts.
2. Small and large snap-rings. Small on axle end, large in hub bore groove.
3. Outer locking gear (heavy metal, splined on inner bore and outer rim).
4. Lightweight "press-bar".
5. Inner locking gear. Splined on outer edge and has dog-teeth to mate to the outer lock gear when the press-bar is released.
6. Large coil spring.
7. Steel spring seat ring that rides around the outer bearing cage. You might have to wait until you get the bearing adjusting nuts out ot get that spring seat out, since it sits way down inside and is hard to grab sometimes.

Second Stage - Bearings:

1. Outer jam nut with 4 notches. May be torqued to 90+ lbs of torque, so if it's tight, don't use the previously described screwdriver method!
2. Locking ring. Has many holes and a tang/stub/tab on it's inner bore so it can't spin on the spindle
3. Wheel bearing adjusting nut. Looks exactly like outer jam nut except for a small pin sticking out of it's face to line up with any one of the holes in the locking ring.

Count the pieces you've removed and compare them to the first list and see if anything is missing.
If so, then you still have some more to go.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong please, I'm just sitting here going by memory and it's been a LONG time since I've done a wheel bearing R & R.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Hmm, perhaps the "one notch" you're referring to is just the end of the spindle itself?
You would see a splined axle shaft that's semi-free to wobble just a bit inside the spindle's bore. Just outside of that would be the threaded end of the spindle. It has a single notch that is where the little tab on the lock washer aligns like I was describing earlier.
Sounds like that could be it.
Maybe the bearings and nuts are still hidden behind the last piece of the lockout puzzle. That would be the inner locking gear with it's dog teeth, and a machined groove in it's face where the push-bar would ride.

Let us know. Talk to you tomorrow.

Paul
 

Flash69

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Jul 21, 2004
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2,429
Loc.
Southwest Va
You have an outer nut and an inner nut. What you are seeing is the lock ring that keeps the inner nut from turning. Pull it out and you will see the second nut. They arent that easy to get a hold on. I take like a bent ice pick and reach back in there to pull it out. Take it off and it should all slide right off for you.
 

airman

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Nov 26, 2003
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http://completeoffroad.com/i-123164-spindle-nut-kit-dana-44.html

look at this picture. Like Flash said, there are 3 peices to remove. The locking washer is between the 2 nuts (easy now). Once you have those 3 out you can pull the hub off. Notice the spanner nut that has the small pin on it. That one goes closest to the bearing ansd the pin locks into one of the holes on the lock washer.
 
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Dakotabound

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Jul 9, 2006
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Ok, here I am this morning, reading all your kind posts. Off I go to get this problem solved.

Allow me at this time to thank you all for sharing with me your thoughts, opinions and special advice. This is what a club, group, forum does best in promoting knowledge and sharing skills.

I am grateful you choose to help me with this problem. When I do this this right side off and replace the bad bearings and races you will also know that I intend to go to the left side and do the same for if this side is bad the other may be just as neglected.

After all, spring is here and my Bronco is sniffing the air of New Mexico's wide open spaces wanting to get out of town for some easy sightseeing!

Thanks again gentlemen. RJ
 

doghauler

Full Member
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Dec 7, 2006
Messages
187
Loc.
Western WA State
Good luck, once you see how it comes apart it will be clear. It sounds confusing trying to put it in words, but it's acutally a simple design.
 

trailpsycho

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
4,856
When you go to pick up the 4-prong socket at Autozone, Napa or wherever, also pick up a Haynes or Chiltons manual. It covers all of this, has pics, torque specs and other details that come in handy. I have done this 8 or 9 times over the years and I still check out the manual sometimes. Good luck.

BS I would recommend that you get bearings from NAPA or Carquest...although I do believe that Autozone carries Timken, which are also good...verify the manufacturer before you buy. Use good high quality bearing grease--not the cheapest...use alot of it. Packign bearings is a messy job...I borrowed one of those loaders this last time from a friend and it sure helps. Either way you will be and should be absolutely filthy with grease when your done or you didnt use enough or do it right.;)
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
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Definitely. It just takes some getting used to.

Unfortunately though, you're right and the previous owner might not have done much with the bearings. They're VERY reliable when maintained, but I think most people that bought 4-wheel drives back when did not know about bearing and hub maintenance.

And don't forget to read up or ask about the adjusting procedure when you're ready to put it all back together.

Paul
 

brian72

Early Bronco Student
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Messages
4,157
when you put it back together there are certain torque specs for different pieces. Use a manual or you can always come back here and ask.
 
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