there is only one notch on that unit inside the hub surrounding the splined axle, and it is at 9 oclock.
Hmm, strange. Never seen one with just one notch. I'm trying to picture what else it can be and drawing a blank at the moment.
I use the word warn as a standard, this is the factory hub, I may look at it tomorrow to see if it says warn. But what you are saying is that this notched item needs to be removed and it is accomplished through the act of turning. Or, stated another way, I am not to use a puller or a slide hammer system to remove the rotor with the wheel hub that has the bolts for the tire, right?
That is correct. No pullers or hammers (slide-type or otherwise) unless something is friction-welded from a bad bearing like you were mentioning earlier.
The notched thingies are not shown in the picture above but are just simple threaded nuts with standard righty-tighty, lefty-loosy threads. Instead of hex shaped heads, they're round with notches.
As to the snap ring and the internal steel coiled lock ring, I have those out, along with the geared outer ring, the press bar (with two ears), and the big spring behind all that stuff. I'll look on this site for the pics. Again, thanks for the help!
Your description of the press bar with the two ears says it's a stock Ford (Spicer) hub. The red knob (now pink with age no doubt) that you turn to lock and unlock the hubs should say "Ford" in the center of it. Warn didn't start making the factory hubs until a few years later.
Don't know what the "internal steel coiled lock-ring" would be though. Interesting.
(edit: Never mind. Figured out that the lock ring is just what you say it is. The outer lock ring that I was erroneously calling a snap-ring)
The general order of a stock hub removal is (and anybody correct me if I get something out of order).
First Stage - Lockout:
1. Outer actuating knob & chrome ring w/six allen bolts.
2. Small and large snap-rings. Small on axle end, large in hub bore groove.
3. Outer locking gear (heavy metal, splined on inner bore and outer rim).
4. Lightweight "press-bar".
5. Inner locking gear. Splined on outer edge and has dog-teeth to mate to the outer lock gear when the press-bar is released.
6. Large coil spring.
7. Steel spring seat ring that rides around the outer bearing cage. You might have to wait until you get the bearing adjusting nuts out ot get that spring seat out, since it sits way down inside and is hard to grab sometimes.
Second Stage - Bearings:
1. Outer jam nut with 4 notches. May be torqued to 90+ lbs of torque, so if it's tight, don't use the previously described screwdriver method!
2. Locking ring. Has many holes and a tang/stub/tab on it's inner bore so it can't spin on the spindle
3. Wheel bearing adjusting nut. Looks exactly like outer jam nut except for a small pin sticking out of it's face to line up with any one of the holes in the locking ring.
Count the pieces you've removed and compare them to the first list and see if anything is missing.
If so, then you still have some more to go.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong please, I'm just sitting here going by memory and it's been a LONG time since I've done a wheel bearing R & R.
Paul