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hydro master

akhelihoon

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Joined
Feb 17, 2006
Messages
29
Loc.
anchorage alaska
chatchy title huh??
well ok im running hydroboost unit out of a 79 mark v and i need a master cylender that has the lines coming out on the left side insted of the right. dose anyone know of a ford car or truck that had that? because shucks or napa cant lookit up that way. thanks
 

toddz69

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chatchy title huh??
well ok im running hydroboost unit out of a 79 mark v and i need a master cylender that has the lines coming out on the left side insted of the right. dose anyone know of a ford car or truck that had that? because shucks or napa cant lookit up that way. thanks

The mid 70s Camper Special master cylinders have the ports on the side you want. They're 1.25" bore masters that your booster will easily be able to push. As another option, I would recommend the mid '80s Dodge 1/2 ton truck/van master cylinders. They'll fit on your booster nicely and are 1.125" bore. Work great with hydroboost as well.

Todd Z.
 

toddz69

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what kind of master dose bronco graveyard use?

For 4 wheel discs, they use the late '70s Corvette 4 wheel disc master cylinder. Their booster is a GM unit, which has slightly different master cylinder bolt hole spacing (0.2") than your Lincoln. However, I believe you can easily modify the Vette master to work on your Lincoln booster. Just pay attention to the booster pushrod/master cylinder piston interface and you should be fine.

Todd Z.
 

TOFIC

Bronco Wrencher and Fixer
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Now, you listen to Todd now - - - he is the man on the masters
Todd, my new master (Dodge, had to buy new if you can believe it) works great. Still I am a little leary about the volume to the rear discs being a little thin. did you not try another one that was a slightly bigger bore??
TOFIC
 

toddz69

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Now, you listen to Todd now - - - he is the man on the masters
Todd, my new master (Dodge, had to buy new if you can believe it) works great. Still I am a little leary about the volume to the rear discs being a little thin. did you not try another one that was a slightly bigger bore??
TOFIC

Good to hear it's working out well, TOFIC. I actually have a new one on my new setup too. It's working well too. I think you should be ok volume-wise. I've used them with Lincoln (big), Cadillac (medium) and Explorer (small) calipers and they never seemed to have a problem.

For awhile I was running a later model 1.25" Dodge master, but I've taken it off for now. Be happy to send it to you if you'd like to try it.

Todd Z.
 

Socal Tom

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Feb 12, 2004
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San Diego, CA
The mid 70s Camper Special master cylinders have the ports on the side you want. They're 1.25" bore masters that your booster will easily be able to push. As another option, I would recommend the mid '80s Dodge 1/2 ton truck/van master cylinders. They'll fit on your booster nicely and are 1.125" bore. Work great with hydroboost as well.

Todd Z.
I'm running a 78 ford f250 master cylinder single piston and its 1 1/16
Here are the NAPA specs

Item#: SS 4739368

Bore Size:1 1/16"
# of Line Ports:2

I'm currently running it without power, and it seems to work fine, but I hope to add hydroboost soon.
I've got a hydroboost from a hummer. The m/c bolt pattern is 3.1ish inches, is that the ford spacing? it doesn't fit the corvette master I bought.
Tom
 

toddz69

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I'm running a 78 ford f250 master cylinder single piston and its 1 1/16
Here are the NAPA specs

Item#: SS 4739368

Bore Size:1 1/16"
# of Line Ports:2

I'm currently running it without power, and it seems to work fine, but I hope to add hydroboost soon.
I've got a hydroboost from a hummer. The m/c bolt pattern is 3.1ish inches, is that the ford spacing? it doesn't fit the corvette master I bought.
Tom

Tom: That's good info. I think that's a good bore size for an unboosted application - particularly with front discs. I'm surprised the Hummer bolt pattern is 3.1x". The Ford/Mopar spacing is 3.2" and the Corvette/GM spacing is 3.4". I would've thought the Hummer booster and Corvette master spacing would be dead on, but perhaps not. Perhaps some judicious hole filing is in order.

Todd Z.
 
Last edited:

Socal Tom

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Tom: That's good info. I think that's a good bore size for an unboosted application - particularly with front discs. I'm surprised the Hummer bolt pattern is 3.1x". The Ford/Mopar spacing is 3.2" and the Corvette/GM spacing is 3.2". I would've thought the Hummer booster and Corvette master spacing would be dead on, but perhaps not. Perhaps some judicious hole filing is in order.

Todd Z.

I think you mean the GM is 3.4, at least that's what I measure on my vette M/C. I remeasured the boost unit, and its more like 3.2.
Tom
 

toddz69

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I think you mean the GM is 3.4, at least that's what I measure on my vette M/C. I remeasured the boost unit, and its more like 3.2.
Tom

Yeah - you're right. I mis-typed above (corrected now). Sounds like the Ford/Mopar stuff would fit on your Hummer booster w/o any problems?

Todd Z.
 
OP
OP
A

akhelihoon

New Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2006
Messages
29
Loc.
anchorage alaska
yeah so i went to the parts store today i told them what i needed and 1 hr later i came back and they found a vette m/c for me. and your right the holes are a little off but i can work with that
 

TOFIC

Bronco Wrencher and Fixer
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Loc.
Redcliff Alberta
For awhile I was running a later model 1.25" Dodge master, but I've taken it off for now. Be happy to send it to you if you'd like to try it.


Yea Todd I would like to try Email me the details will you??
TOFIC
 

TOFIC

Bronco Wrencher and Fixer
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Jan 6, 2004
Messages
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Loc.
Redcliff Alberta
There not hard to measure Tom
I set mine for 25 thousands of slack in the rods in the stopped state.
this I divided between the two rods, more on the pedal and less on the MC/HB mating.
It is funny, but I have had to do little or no adjusting of the middle rod using a dodge master on a ford HB.
I also alter the HB to accept more volume of fluid from the pump when it is actuated. This gives me a "gentler/softer" pedal with less travel to it, this is the way I like my brake pedal to feel
The down side to this setup is in a PANIC stop it will throw you out of the truck in the right set of conditions.
TOFIC
 

Socal Tom

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Feb 12, 2004
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There not hard to measure Tom
I set mine for 25 thousands of slack in the rods in the stopped state.
this I divided between the two rods, more on the pedal and less on the MC/HB mating.
It is funny, but I have had to do little or no adjusting of the middle rod using a dodge master on a ford HB.
I also alter the HB to accept more volume of fluid from the pump when it is actuated. This gives me a "gentler/softer" pedal with less travel to it, this is the way I like my brake pedal to feel
The down side to this setup is in a PANIC stop it will throw you out of the truck in the right set of conditions.
TOFIC

Is the MC/HB rod adjustable? The rod in my HB unit is about flush with the mounting surface for the MC, I've seen pics of rods that stick out an inch or more.
Tom
 

toddz69

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Is the MC/HB rod adjustable? The rod in my HB unit is about flush with the mounting surface for the MC, I've seen pics of rods that stick out an inch or more.
Tom

Not adjustable. They are solid rods. The SD ones stick out the furthest, I believe. If I ever need extras for something, I stop by the yard where I can find the SD boosters and pull a couple spares.

Todd Z.
 

toddz69

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You guys are swapping masters like its nothing. What are you doing about the pushrods?
Tom

I've only really swapped between the 1.125" and 1.25" Dodge masters on my setup. I think the only difference for me was a slight difference in length and I compensated for it with a poormans' spacer - small lockwasher with a dab of grease to hold it in the bore and everything worked fine.

Todd Z.
 

Socal Tom

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I pushed the Vette MC up against my HB unit last night. I used a sharpie to color the rod b4 I did it. Although I couldn't feel the rod pushing back, I did get color transfer between the rod and the mc. Does that mean the rod is too long?
or just right? This is all on the bench obviously so no ps fluid in the system.
Tom
 

toddz69

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I pushed the Vette MC up against my HB unit last night. I used a sharpie to color the rod b4 I did it. Although I couldn't feel the rod pushing back, I did get color transfer between the rod and the mc. Does that mean the rod is too long?
or just right? This is all on the bench obviously so no ps fluid in the system.
Tom

Sounds like it's just fine to me. I don't like any slack in the pushrod-m/c interface (hint - if you still have the factory m/c, try it on the HB and see what the factory interface is - you might be surprised..). On the pedal-to-pushrod connection, I like to have some slop in the pin-to-pushrod hole so the brake light switch will activate correctly.

Todd Z.
 

TOFIC

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Jan 6, 2004
Messages
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Loc.
Redcliff Alberta
I disagree with Todd on this one. (there a revelation eh what?)
I like a tiny bit of slack on my HB/MC rod to ensure i dont get a lock on state.
Just enough for a little movement. I use an old 5 thousands spark plug gap gauge and file the rod until the shim and the rod mounted in the HB are snug. Take it apart, remove the shim, reassemble and voila just right.
As to pedal to pushrod connection I agree with Todd a little slack is needed for the STOCK Bronco switch to work. I have use the front pressure switch on some masters in some installs for the brake lights and that works well also and eliminates the messing around with the slack required for the switch

As my daddy used to say "whatever way twists your tail that works"
TOFIC
 
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