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How does this go back together?

DanWheeler

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 8, 2005
Messages
2,549
Loc.
Kirkland, WA
262905043_BjnLZ-S.jpg


I swear it came apart all by itself.

Ever start one of those projects you know you should not keep going but you do anyway?

I've never done u-joints and didn't intend on taking it all apart tonight but there have been some horrible noises coming from underneath the truck and I need to use it this weekend and didn't want to breakdown wrong place wrong time.

I THINK I know how to get it back together but just have a few questions that I wasn't able to find on google or search on this site:

1. When installing the new u-joints do I remove all the bearing caps with needle bearings and place the U-joint in the driveshaft then carefully center the cap with needle bearings onto the end of the u-joint and then pound the cap into the driveshaft? And then do the other side?

2. I read somewhere that it makes a difference where you place the zerks when installing the U-joint. is this true?

3. I was careless and didn't mark which way the center part of the CV joint goes... it looks like its symetrical and could go either way. yes/no?

I also forgot to mark the slip yoke spline position - am I screwed?

thanks very much for the help

good news is I'm pretty sure I found where my noise is coming from:

262905020_K6bP4-S.jpg
 

Phoenix0783

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2008
Messages
143
Those cv joints are not fun to replace. I've always taken driveshafts to a shop and had them replaced.

Here's a good article on the u-joints. link
 
OP
OP
DanWheeler

DanWheeler

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 8, 2005
Messages
2,549
Loc.
Kirkland, WA
thanks, that article confirms how I thought the U-joints should be re-installed. Probably easier written than done but I dont want to put any unecessary money into this driveshaft since I'll probably be getting a new one with my lift. I just hope NAPA has spicers in stock.
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,490
Yeah those are fun, take your time and if you have a press it will make it easier to do. You can do it.
Bax
 

doghauler

Full Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2006
Messages
187
Loc.
Western WA State
They're not too bad, I've done mine a number of times. One tip is to make sure one of the needle bearings in the u joint cup doesn't fall into the bottom of the cup when you slide the u joint together. I wonder how I know that? %)
 

cheesenip73

Full Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2001
Messages
315
Extra grease in the caps to hold the needles in place won't hurt either. I used a ball joint/u joint kit from a local parts store (free rental) and messed up two caps. Make sure the needles are started correctly before cranking on the vice! If they are not you will hear a snap.:cry:
 

JWMcCrary

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 14, 2004
Messages
5,001
Tech article I saved from an older Bronco Driver Mag.
 

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WyleCoyote

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 2, 2002
Messages
1,739
I believe that if you don't get the slip splines back in the same place your driveshaft might be out of balance - might want to get it re-balance before any high-speed driving.
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 8, 2005
Messages
2,549
Loc.
Kirkland, WA
thanks for the tips guys. I don't have a large enough vice or a press yet so I will be using the socket and hammer method. I read somewhere that using a brass drift works better because you get less bouncing because its soft. Is this true? My largest brass drift is about 3/8" wide at the most - not as wide as the bearing cap. Wouldn't it be bad to pound on the center of the bearing cap? Do I need a very wide brass drift for this?

I picked up some cheapy U-joints from NAPA this morning. $44 for all 3. If they get me through the weekend so I can go pick up my axles and transmission at the swap meet I'll be happy.

thanks,
dan
 

Bronco Brian

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 10, 2006
Messages
1,140
If you have the time I like to stick my U-joints in the freezer 24 hr before I install then makes the grease hard so the needle bearing anr less likely to fall out
 

Dave

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
2,190
If you have the time I like to stick my U-joints in the freezer 24 hr before I install then makes the grease hard so the needle bearing anr less likely to fall out

Also warm up the yoke just a bit with a propane torch and you should be able to tap them in with a brass hammer. A c-clamp makes a pretty good press. Also, its been a long time since I've had one of these apart but the spline might be keyed so it will only go together one way. One spline might be slightly wider that the others.
 
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bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,490
i would not want to do that job with a hammer and a socket.
Good luck.
 

bronko69er

EB Addict
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
4,599
Loc.
Renton, WA
i would not want to do that job with a hammer and a socket.
Good luck.

Yeah, the problem with the hammer technique is that the impact tends to knock the needle loose. It will work in a pinch on the trail but I prefer some type of a press. Anyone ever used a 6" c-clamp? You can pick one up of a few bucks at Harbor Freight (new store in bellevue).
 
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blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Try using a 6" C-clamp. It pushes the cups in real smooth. Lots cheaper than buying a new shaft. On the other hand if your splines are loose you should toss it anyway.
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 8, 2005
Messages
2,549
Loc.
Kirkland, WA
It was super easy putting those back in. Even after a night out and slight inebration I installed all 3 with a hammer and socket and installed the driveshaft in about 45 minutes. Woulda taken more time to rotate my tires. Installing is way faster and easier than taking it all apart.

The first cup goes in real easy because your pounding on the driveshaft while the bearing cup sits on the bench and the cross is sitting in the cup so no bearings can come loose.

then flip it over and pull the cross up just enough to put the top bearing cap on it but not enough to let it leave the bottom cap then pound the top bearing cap down.

my biggest problem was i forgot to completely grease the joints before installing the retainer clips so I had to re-do a few of them.

thanks for all the tips and info. Feels pretty smooth now I will find out tomorrow if the balance is off.

BTW - the splines on my slip shaft had a plastic coating on them. I removed it all which made the slip shaft a bit sloppier but it slides much smoother now.
 

Cooter_76

Sr. Member
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
863
Tech article I saved from an older Bronco Driver Mag.

This thread was perfectly timed! I was about to take my front driveshaft to a machine shop to replace the u-joints, but with this article and the tip about using a big C-clamp, I was able to do it myself this afternoon.

Love this site!:cool:
 

Mark

Contributor
Bronco Klutz
Joined
Aug 29, 2003
Messages
5,414
Loc.
NW Indiana
A bench vise is a better press than a "C" clamp.

Use sockets to fit the ujoint caps when tightening.

Personally, I would not use a hammer on a Ujoint.
 

YellowBronc

Bronco God
Joined
Jan 6, 2002
Messages
1,830
Don't forget to check and make sure your driveshaft u-joints are in phase. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about.

and a link explaining it............
Phase Explanation
 

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