• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Alternator

Big_chuck73

Full Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2007
Messages
272
Loc.
San Marcos, Texas
Is 1 wire alternator the way to go... I'm going nuts trying to figure out my voltage regulator and 3 wire alternator. Which 1 wire should I buy, middle of the road, don't have much accessories pulling power.
Thanks
 

br0nc0xrapt0r

Loves pickles
Joined
Sep 28, 2007
Messages
5,437
what seems to be the problem with your regulator? after my last problem I consider myself a subject matter expert.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Yes, looks like two options.

1. We can help fix your current stock charging system.

2. We can make suggestions on an upgraded alternator.

For #2, I can suggest upgrading to a 3G alternator. It's not a 1-wire alternator, but is really easy to upgrade. I run a small case 3G, and is as close to a bolt-in as it gets. Drill and heli-coil one hole, reuse the v-belt pully from the stock alternator, and it mounts exactly like the stock alternator. Relatively minor wiring changes: The output of the 3G alternator should go directly to the positive battery terminal. I connected mine to the BAT side of the starter solenoid. The 3G also needs a hot-in-run connection, which would be the Green w/Red stripe wire currently at the voltage regulator. Cap off the Black w/Yellow stripe wire that was the output of the old alternator. Remove the voltage regulator and the rest of the wire that now don't go anyplace. The stock ammeter will no longer function, so I would suggest the addition of an aftermarket voltmeter to keep tabs on the state of the charging system.
 
OP
OP
Big_chuck73

Big_chuck73

Full Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2007
Messages
272
Loc.
San Marcos, Texas
what seems to be the problem with your regulator? after my last problem I consider myself a subject matter expert.

I've found alot of info on wiring my voltage regulator, seems to be different ways... I just want a way that works. I'm running stock type ignition with an aftermarket harness from 4wheeljunky. Truck runs great though. Any help would be great. All I really need is where the wiring goes from the alternator and from the voltage regulator.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
I've seen that diagram, still a little confused though. Is there a key some where. I can't really tell the colors on my alternator, I was just going to add brand new wiring.
On the alternator, you only really need two connections. One is the output of the alternator (the big connection) and the Field connection. In the diagram this is wire 35 (Orange). Yeah there's a ground wire too, but I ran for 10 years without that ground connection because I have a good grounding scheme in my Bronco.

To the voltage regulator, one wire (Yellow 152) is hot all the time. You should see that it goes through the fuse link, and back to the battery. Wire 904 (Green w/Red stripe) is Hot-In-Run from the ignition switch. The last wire is the orange wire that goes to the Field connection on the alternator.
 
OP
OP
Big_chuck73

Big_chuck73

Full Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2007
Messages
272
Loc.
San Marcos, Texas
On the alternator, you only really need two connections. One is the output of the alternator (the big connection) and the Field connection. In the diagram this is wire 35 (Orange). Yeah there's a ground wire too, but I ran for 10 years without that ground connection because I have a good grounding scheme in my Bronco.

To the voltage regulator, one wire (Yellow 152) is hot all the time. You should see that it goes through the fuse link, and back to the battery. Wire 904 (Green w/Red stripe) is Hot-In-Run from the ignition switch. The last wire is the orange wire that goes to the Field connection on the alternator.

That helps a bunch, I printed out the diagram. Only question is the diagram shows the black yellow from the alt. , it has a small wire off if it to the switch c-240, do you need that?
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Only question is the diagram shows the black yellow from the alt. , it has a small wire off if it to the switch c-240, do you need that?
The Yellow wire 21?? Yes, definately!!! That's power to the ignition switch!!
 
OP
OP
Big_chuck73

Big_chuck73

Full Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2007
Messages
272
Loc.
San Marcos, Texas
The Yellow wire 21?? Yes, definately!!! That's power to the ignition switch!!

That power has to come from the alt. ? I'm getting my power straight from the hot side of the starter solinoid, the truck starts and runs right now. I guess that's coming from the same spot.. right?
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Just to be clear, Don't need the stator wire on the alt.? What is that for anyway.
On those year Broncos that used it, it was hooked to the electric choke. Stator connection only has (supplies) power when the engine is actually running, and the alternator has an output.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
no way to get the stock ameter to work with a 3g?
The deal is that the full output of the stock alternator goes through the ammeter loop. 12 gauge wire was OK for at most 55 or 60 amps. But not for 140+ amps. I saw a tech writeup once that specified a certain gauge wire from the new alternator to the battery, then shunted it with the ammeter loop. Not accurate, plus you're still intentionally putting a resistance between the alternator and the battery. Personally, I don't think it's a big deal that my ammeter doesn't work. I'm much happier with my voltmeter.
 
Top