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Heat at Idle

Horsepower

New Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2007
Messages
35
Loc.
Santa Monica
Hey Board~ My '74 gets to 250*+ at idle, but when driving it stays at 180*.
I was thinking about stripping out the manual fan/shroud and adding the largest electric Black Magic fan I could find. I figure I'd keep it on whenever driving the Bronc. Any thoughts on this?

Details-
-fresh 302
-Waterwetter
-180* Therm
-brand new alum 4-core radiator
-hi-flow WH water pump

Thanks, Erik
 

justinoshea

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2007
Messages
479
Loc.
Gilbert, AZ
thats how most new cars are. not cheap.

another option is an additional pusher fan in front with or without an automatic thermostat. depends on how much other crap is already there.

Idle is also the worst case for radiator air cavitation (hot exit air returning to front of radiator). seal all the holes, gaps, hood and use a good shroud. it will still have a path from the bottom, which is one reason why cars have engine belly pans.
 

bmc69

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Messages
11,855
Hey Board~ My '74 gets to 250*+ at idle, but when driving it stays at 180*.
I was thinking about stripping out the manual fan/shroud and adding the largest electric Black Magic fan I could find. I figure I'd keep it on whenever driving the Bronc. Any thoughts on this?

Details-
-fresh 302
-Waterwetter
-180* Therm
-brand new alum 4-core radiator
-hi-flow WH water pump

Thanks, Erik

I did that experiment when my truck (408) was behaving exactly as you described..it failed, the expensive Black Magic sitting on the shelf now. I gained a barely noticeable improvement in how long it took to overheat at idle..but it created a new problem; overheated at highway speeds too, where before that was when it was always fine...as with yours.

The right mech fan and shroud combo fixed it for me..large 7-blade fixed pitch fan from an F-250 460 Camper Special with fan clutch. I added a SPAL electric pusher in front of the raddy and still need/use that when crawling rocks only, otherwise I'm golden without the electric.
 

Master Chief

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 24, 2006
Messages
1,204
Your gonna want to leave the fan shroud on it so the fan can create a vacuum through the radiator.

I would put in a hotter thermostat so the water stays in the radiator longer and make sure your anti-freeze is mixed properly. A clutch fan is good too, your gas mileage will be better since it ain't dragging on the engine at highway speeds.

Also, dependiing on how fresh the 302 is, it's gonna need some time to break in before the friction eases up. Run a good quality oil and change it and the filter after about 500 miles.

Senior Chief
 
OP
OP
Horsepower

Horsepower

New Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2007
Messages
35
Loc.
Santa Monica
Thanks all for the response.

BMC~ Great point. I was worried about a manual AND pusher because I didn't wanna reduce airflow at speed. I DEFINITELY don't want to lose my low "travel temp". Do you mount a pusher toward the top corner of the radiator closer to the exit point, or does it matter? I think I'll install a pusher fan, and look for the right manual fan. I'll also fabricate my shroud for a close fit to the fan, and to decrease cavitation.
Any ideas for the correct 7 blade fan without shopping the junkyards?

Thanks again, Erik.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,322
If it only affects it at idle, I would look to increase the fan and water pump speed at idle. Bump the idle speed up or find a smaller wp pulley.
 

oleguy74

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 26, 2008
Messages
2,034
Loc.
calif city ca
stock fan should be six blade.more than enough for stock to mild 302.check timming and belt tennision also.use a good 50-50 mix antifreeze.my 74 was bought in calif.stock ac.3-core rad no heat trbl until got stupid and put in a 351w.
 

Socal Tom

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 12, 2004
Messages
2,442
Loc.
San Diego, CA
What fan are you running? I'd recommend a "race fan" from derale or one of the others, and make sure that the fan is 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the fan shroud.
What radiator are you running? Good aluminum radiators have 2 big cores instead of 4 small ones.
Tom
 

bmc69

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Messages
11,855
Thanks all for the response.

BMC~ Do you mount a pusher toward the top corner of the radiator closer to the exit point, or does it matter? I think I'll install a pusher fan, and look for the right manual fan. I'll also fabricate my shroud for a close fit to the fan, and to decrease cavitation.
Any ideas for the correct 7 blade fan without shopping the junkyards?

Thanks again, Erik.

The SPAL pusher is 12 or 14" and requires that you 'lose' yr hood latching assembly altogether and go with hood pins or the like. The SPAL is a potent fan (Ferrari uses them), draws a lot of amps and is pretty loud. Given akll that..I seriously doubt a 9" pusher fan tucked in the corner would do much.
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
I'm with Socal Tom. I think your main problem is that 4 row radiator most of the time the 4 rows have problems pulling enough air through them If your going to spend any money get a different radiator 3 row tripple pass would be your best bet.
 

justinoshea

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2007
Messages
479
Loc.
Gilbert, AZ
The SPAL pusher is 12 or 14" and requires that you 'lose' yr hood latching assembly altogether and go with hood pins or the like .

Thats what I did, 14" (perma cool?). it spins as you roll down the road so it won't last forever even if its 'off', as the bearing will go at some point. still leaves room for a decent tranny cooler and a power steering cooler.

when I changed the stock fan out for a 19" flex fan & a steel shroud I noticed that the electric pusher now turns at idle, showing the increased flow.

To do it over I would go with the exploder acc. setup with a clutch fan.

Also, bigger tires will help. increases cool air flow under vehicle.;D
 
OP
OP
Horsepower

Horsepower

New Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2007
Messages
35
Loc.
Santa Monica
my mistake on the 4-core. it's the 2 core from Bronco Graveyard. Here's the detail.

Item #10609 - New
1966-77 Ford Bronco
See part description.
Proudly Made In The USA!

Solve all of your cooling problems with our new Extreme Duty Custom Aluminum Radiators!
These radiators are made to fit in the factory location with the stock type modified radiator mounts.
These radiators provide over 15% better cooling than the 4 core high efficiency copper/brass radiators!
With two 1" cores and 14 fins per. inch.
Better cooling is provided at low speed operating conditions, also the cores are brazed to the tank headers allowing the use of a 22-24lb. radiator cap and NO EPOXY!
The tanks are custom made from 3003 aluminum and can have additional brackets attached with R4043 welding rod.
This radiator does accept the stock fan shroud and clears all known conventional power steering conversions steering conversions.
The automatic transmission cooler fittings are larger than stock to allow race coolers to be attached.
NOTE:
This radiator needs adapters to hook up your stock trans cooler, it is made so you can choose your adapters to fit your OEM or aftermarket trans cooler. Adapters are readily available from local parts stores.
Includes 22-24 lb cap!
thanks, Erik.
 

72Sport

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 8, 2002
Messages
2,954
Hey Board~ My '74 gets to 250*+ at idle, but when driving it stays at 180*.
I was thinking about stripping out the manual fan/shroud and adding the largest electric Black Magic fan I could find. I figure I'd keep it on whenever driving the Bronc. Any thoughts on this?

Details-
-fresh 302
-Waterwetter
-180* Therm
-brand new alum 4-core radiator
-hi-flow WH water pump

Thanks, Erik

Stop the hot air from jumping over the top of the radiator and re-entering the top of the radiator on the front side. Try a little cardboard and and tape as a test. You just might be amazed. Block all necessary holes in the core support and on the sides of the radiator. I have ac and a couple of Derale fans mounted on the condenser. I have let it idle and removed the piece on the top of the radiator and watched the temperature shoot up. I then reinstalled it and watched the temp go back down. The removal of the top piece and re-installation was done with the engine at idle and the ac on after a 15 mile ride. The engine was not shut off and the hood was only open long enough to remove the piece above the radiator, about 30 seconds max. The fans do help but the biggest fix was the piece over the top of the radiator.
 

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