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Tailgate help

Gitup73

Full Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2009
Messages
153
Loc.
Northeast Ohio
Anyone out there got any info or pics on how to re-assemble the tailgate pivot, rods, and handle? It is driving me crazy. I take it that the pivot has to be in a certain position when you attach the rods?
 

wayne marks

New Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2008
Messages
44
Loc.
Pineville, LA
Sorry, I'm a little late finding your thread but here goes. You will need a common paint stirring stick and help from a friend. Break the stirring stick into four pieces about two inches long. Install the rods into the latches (right angle end inboard, long rod to the left) then mount and torque the latches. Grip one of the rod ends through the center opening in the tailgate with a pair of vice-grip plires and pull inboard while your friend places two of the wood pieces (shims) in front of the latch pin to hold it inboard. Repeat for the other side.

Assemble the release mechanism before installation. The flat bar, with the two holes in the ends, goes onto the carriage bolt, then the waffer washer, and then the smaller but thicker nylon washer. I have seen many assemblies that the waffer washer was missing. You must have this part. If missing, hit the hardware store. Insert this assembly into the hole in the top of the bucket, then the larger but thinner nylon washer followed by the release handle and the retaining nut. I advise replacement of the stock nut with a SS ny-lock. Note that with the square carrage bolt there are four possibilities as to orientation of the flat bar and the release handle. The correct orientation is when the release handle is completely stowed in the bucket and the flat bar is perpendicular (front to rear). Torque the ny-lock nut until the assembly is very tight but still manageable when pulling out on the handle. Check that the waffer washer is compressed (not totally) and applying pressure between the carriage bolt head and the flat bar. If there is any slack, a flat washer may have to be added between the nylon washer and the waffer washer. If so, use a SS washer as they are thinner. If there is any slack, the flat bar could jump on the carriage bolt head and throw off the proper orientation.

Hold this complete assembly in place while installing the right release rod down through the forward hole in the flat bar (easy job), then a small washer and keeper on the end of the rod. Don't worry about the gasket, it goes on later. Install the left release rod up through the rear hole in the flat bar (difficult job). The problem is that there is not enough room between the top of the bucket and the bottom of the flat bar for the right angle of the release rod to fit. While your helper holds the assembly, take a stout pair of neddle nose pliers and bend the tip of the bar forward and work it up into the hole. Be patient and work together, it will go, then a small washer and keeper on the end of the rod. Don't worry about bending the release rod, it is made of high tensle steel and will spring back into place.

Now install the gasket. Note that it is the same on both ends but thinner on one length. The thinner length goes to the top. Gently pull it over the bucket and into place.

Install the connected assembly with gasket into the tailgate then the two bolts on the inboard side of the tailgate followed by the four screws on the outboard, then torque all.

Pull out on the release handle and have your helper remove the wood shims from each end. Exercise the release several times assuring that the release pins retract and that the release handle springs all the way back into the stowed position. If so, close and open the tailgate. Your good to go.
 
Last edited:

SC74

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
3,411
Just did this today on my narrowed tailgate. The trick is all in pre-loading the latches as mentioned above. It's aggravating and a person helping makes it much easier.
 

jcpetrson

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Messages
434
Tailgate Reassembly

Wayne Marks - If you are still on this forum, a big thanks!! I've attached a schema diagram that I think is from Toms.

tailgatebucket.jpg
 

jcpetrson

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Messages
434
Tailgate Reassembly

Here are a couple more pics. Rather than paint stirrers, I used a couple of adjustable wrenches. They fit perfect without touching the paint. The assembly must turn counter clockwise to work. The shorter rod is on the top and longer rod on the bottom. Left/Right doesn't make sense when you are upside down working on this.
 

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Fireball05

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,822
JCP - I am a bit confused...what exactly is the adjustable wrench doing in your first photo?
 

jcpetrson

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Messages
434
The wrench is compressing the latches. You can't assemble everything if they are fully extended.
 

MyOriginal66

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2009
Messages
2,071
Search is my friend, It's been almost two years since I disassembled my tailgate and as I was putting back together today I remembered thinking there was a trick to it. But I went ahead and tried anyway and couldn't get it to work. Now that I found this thread I know why.

Anybody know where I can get the waffer washer and nylon washers or their thickness?
 

Whoaa

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
1,059
Assemble the release mechanism before installation. The flat bar, with the two holes in the ends, goes onto the carriage bolt, then the waffer washer, and then the smaller but thicker nylon washer. I have seen many assemblies that the waffer washer was missing. You must have this part. If missing, hit the hardware store. Insert this assembly into the hole in the top of the bucket, then the larger but thinner nylon washer followed by the release handle and the retaining nut. I advise replacement of the stock nut with a SS ny-lock. Note that with the square carrage bolt there are four possibilities as to orientation of the flat bar and the release handle. The correct orientation is when the release handle is completely stowed in the bucket and the flat bar is perpendicular (front to rear). Torque the ny-lock nut until the assembly is very tight but still manageable when pulling out on the handle. Check that the waffer washer is compressed (not totally) and applying pressure between the carriage bolt head and the flat bar. If there is any slack, a flat washer may have to be added between the nylon washer and the waffer washer. If so, use a SS washer as they are thinner. If there is any slack, the flat bar could jump on the carriage bolt head and throw off the proper orientation.

.

My handle is not perpendicular to the tailgate & bucket assembly. My handle stick's out about an inch -as if you were operating the handle. It doesn't sit in the buck tight and square.

I also noticed that mine is missing the waffer washer.

So is my handle not sitting in like it should because the orientation of the square shoulder of the carrage-head bolt? I wish I knew how to take pic's and post them on this site...I need to learn that trick. Thanks!
 

Cotyadams

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2014
Messages
54
Loc.
MS
I can not for the life of me get my tailgate to open. Any advice before I cut it off? I've wd40'd the crap out of it and can get one side to release but the other isn't budging.
 
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