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Shackle Bolt torque specs

luderchris

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Oct 26, 2008
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I need the torque specs for the following--

--Rear shackle, Leaf to shackle bolt
--Rear shackle, shackle to frame bracket bolt
--Front Leaf to frame bracket bolt

WH 4.5" Leafs, stock shackles with poly bushings

Thanks in advance for your help!

Chris
 

KyleQ

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Apr 24, 2008
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5,480
You should have new installation hardware with nyloc nuts. Make em tight, but do not tighten them enough to cause anything to bind. If you just put an impact on them the truck will ride stiff as a brick.
 

zeeman1

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I'm interested in this answer as well. I've always just made them nice and snug, without over-tightening them. That means none of them are set to the same torque, and none are likely at the correct torque either.
 

bronko69er

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With new poly bushings, the metal sleeves should stop you from over compressing the bushings. Tighten away!
 

zeeman1

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Since your the one I got my bushings from I'd assume you know what your talking about! :->
 

DirtDonk

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I'll add a "beg to differ" comment here though, and say "it depends"...
Typical Bronco-speak.

In my case you could not use the tighten-till-it-stops method because the original bushing sleeves had dug well into the metal on both the shackles and the hangers. That and the fact that my new sleeves were shorter than the originals negated any Gutentight torque.
There was just no way that the sleeves supplied with the poly bushings were ever going to contact metal until well after the bushing collars were crushed to smithereens.

In cases like that you have to use the method Kyle described.
I was able to re-use my original steel crimped jam nuts a few times after the initial swap, but after a few tightenings and loosenings, they lost their grip so I went with Nylocs instead. If I found crimped nuts (forget what they're actually called) again though, I'd swap the nylon insert type for the steel jam type again.

Paul
 
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luderchris

luderchris

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So we are all clear as mud now??:?

I don't have a manual yet (Chilton's, factory, etc). Anyone know what they say as far as tightening these?
 

WyleCoyote

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I recall somewhat fuzzily that the chiltons has the spec at 70lb/ft on one and 90lb/ft on the other...I am not near said book or I would verify it.
 

DirtDonk

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Been looking for one of mine since you first posted Chris. Sorry bout that.
You'd think that out of 4 possible, I'd find at least one!!!!

Still lookn' though.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Ok, dug up another one.

Front spring eye to hanger:
5/8" bolt --- 150-190 ft lbs.
9/16" bolt--- 75-105 ft lbs

Spring to rear hanger:
4 wheel drive --- 150-190 ft lbs

Actually, it just gives the numbers and does not say specifically "foot pounds" or "inch pounds".
The presumption of foot-pounds is mine.
And this is, of course, for the stock vulcanized rubber bushing design. And not automatically directly applicable (see other discussions) to poly.

And another caveat. This is from the Haynes '73 to '79 Bronco and pickup book. Which means they may just be talking about full-size truck specs and running the EB's in there without differentiating.
Just some things to think about.

Paul
 
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DirtDonk

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Adding a separate answer just to emphasize this.

If you use the above torque values, I can pretty much guarantee you're going to see some pretty tight-ass bushings. And your ride may suffer accordingly.
If you've got one of the bushing sets with a noticeable amount of sleeve sticking out of each end and you know that it contacts the ears of the mounts well ahead of the bushings themselves, then go for it.

The original bushings are a completely different animal. The press-fit into the spring and shackle eyes is MASSIVE and nothing like the poly bushings.
They're vulcanized to the inner sleeve and that sleeve has "teeth" or serrations that literally dig into the metal of the mounts, holding them tight.
So ALL of the twisting that goes on in a stock setup is the rubber twisting on the center sleeve and returning (theoretically at least) to it's neutral position.
Your poly busings would be set up so that the sleeve actually spins inside the bushing bore (OR on the bolt if the sleeve isn't just right). This is why good lubrication is so important for a long and happy life.
The rubber type, on the other hand, just stretches/twists/compresses in it's own little "module" so no metal-to-metal or metal-to-rubber movement ever occurs. So they never need any kind of lube, but once they're worn out and start tearing, they loose a lot of their good properties.

The book did not show a spring-to-shackle rating that I could find. Since the shackle ears are so flexy though, make sure the metal sleeve stops their compression before they deform too much.

Paul
 

Quick & Dirty

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Feb 15, 2004
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828
If the parts are engineered and built correctly, that is the answer.

This is key. Many kits are not correct and the sleeves are too short. They result in muttered oaths about the dubious parentage of the kit makers, and extra fabbing to make work properly.
 
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luderchris

luderchris

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Thanks Dirt.

When you say

"This is why good lubrication is so important for a long and happy life."

Am I supposed to lube the new poly bushings? How about my new trac bar and 7 degree "C" bushings up front?

I thought they were "Graphite impregnated" and basicall self-lubing (or at least don't need lube.)
 

DirtDonk

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Good questions. I learned about the lubing thing with trackbar bushings which, admittedly, are more prone to wearing out than just about any other bushing on a Bronco. The spring eye bushings are not subject to as much movement, but in the early days they were real squeakers, so we started dabbling in different lubes to reduce the noise factor.
The poly bushing companies usually have a real thick silicone based lube that is resistant to washing out and fully compatible with the poly. And although I've installed spring bushings without any lube before, I highly recommend lubing at least the inner bores of both the bushings and the sleeves. Does double-duty. Keeps moisture out (reducing rust issues on the bolt and sleeve) and helps them spin around each other (reducing wear).
If it keeps them quiet too, that's a big bonus. Personally though, I've never had any poly squeak on me, lubed or not, so I'm not talking from personal experience on that. Just heard all the complaints from others.

I used to go through trackbar bushings pretty quickly. Even those I'd lubed lightly with the silicone lube. So finally I started (purely by happenstance) using that nasty "Anti-Sieze" stuff since that's all I had laying around one day. Hmm, funny, but that set of bushings lasted 10 times as long as the previous 3 sets. Well, more than 10 times actually. I never replaced them again and they were still working fine the last time I drove my Bronco. Coincidence? Maybe, but...

I don't think I've lubed the C-bushings before, but I've heard of a lot of people doing it and it makes sense. I don't think you're likely to get any squeaking out of one, but the lube can probably help keep things aligned and going smoothly during the initial installation. I'm sure others will have better opinions on that, but it makes sense to me, from an installation standpoint anyway.

As for "graphite impregnated", funny you should bring that up. I've been meaning to find out if any of the other companies have started using graphite, or some other lubricating characteristic, in their poly stuff. Unless things have changed in the last couple of years though, the only manufacturer that I'm aware of that impregnates their bushings with graphite (the black ones only) is Energy Suspension. So if yours are black Energy Suspension brand bushings, you've got graphite.
I don't want to spread mis-information here, as things could certainly have changed over the last couple of years, but up until a few years ago at least, Energy was the only one. Most Bronco vendors have used ES products at one time or another, either as-is, or as private labeled products, so it's very likely still common stuff. If yours are another brand, or un-marked, double-check with your supplier.
I used to work for Prothane, and at the time, they did not add graphite to their products. They had excellent "lubricity" when new (in other words, they were pretty slippery), but we also sold silicone lube as well, for just the reasons I described previously. For a few years you could even special order Rancho bushings with graphite. They were sort of a grey/red color and made by Energy exclusively for Rancho. They were about twice the price of regular Rancho Red bushings though, so we didn't sell very many at the time.

That's a long way of saying basically this:
If you've got graphite, great, you don't absolutely have to add lube.
If you don't have graphite, absolutely lube them.
If you do have graphite and still aren't sure just which way you want to go... When in doubt, lube it. If nothing else, it keeps the rust away longer.


Paul
 
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