EFI running rich

57baja · Sep 14, 2009

HO motor everything new.RJM harness codes 81,82,84,85,and 33.Base timing 10,fp 40 with vac line off.It runs so rich at idle it burns your eyes.If I drive it around it runs ok but your clothes smell like exhaust fumes.I'm stumped I've had it running for about 8 months some short cruises and a 100 mile trip.She runs good besides the pig rich problem at idle.I have a Anderson Motorsports PMS tuner hooked up but before I play with tuning I need to figure out what's wrong.It should run like a dream but at idle it's like a badly tuned carb.Any suggestions?:-[

Steve83 · Sep 14, 2009

What size engine? What's the fuel pressure? Is there gas (or even the odor) in the FPR vacuum line? What color injectors? Where's the HEGO installed, and have you tested it? Any exhaust leaks? What's the base ignition timing, and does it adjust thru the normal range after you reconnect the SPOUT? What's the plug gap? Have you tested the coil or spark energy? Is there any chance the valve timing is off?

patr1ck · Sep 15, 2009

Does it have a MAP sensor or a MAF sensor? If it is a Map then check the vacuum hose make sure it is connected to a manifold vacuum source and the hose is not leaking or clogged. If you have a hand held vacuum pump, check if the Map will hold vacuum. If it is MAF then look at the 2 sense wires inside the sensor itself. Make sure there is no debris on them. Can you look at the input of the MAP/MAF with your scanner? At key on engine not running, the MAP should be 150Hz to 160Hz, MAF will be @ 0 Volts. At idle MAP is @ 95 Hz and MAF is @ 1.0 volts. Anything above idle raises both the Hz value of the MAP and the voltage reading of the MAF. What is your O2 voltage?

Pat

ransil · Sep 15, 2009

"Base timing 10,fp 40 with vac line off"

There should not be a vacuum line going the the distributor

patr1ck · Sep 15, 2009

ransil said:
"Base timing 10,fp 40 with vac line off"

There should not be a vacuum line going the the distributor

I think he is talking about the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.

Pat

ransil · Sep 15, 2009

missed the fp part. I saw 40 thinking it was total advance.

I have nothing

57baja · Sep 15, 2009

Steve83 said:
What size engine? What's the fuel pressure? Is there gas (or even the odor) in the FPR vacuum line? What color injectors? Where's the HEGO installed, and have you tested it? Any exhaust leaks? What's the base ignition timing, and does it adjust thru the normal range after you reconnect the SPOUT? What's the plug gap? Have you tested the coil or spark energy? Is there any chance the valve timing is off?

REbuilt 302 ho,stock injectors,maf,tb,etc.Cold air kit,1 5/8 shorties 2 1/2 inch exhaust,msd ign.Every component is new o2,maf,tp,19lb inj. etc.It also has kenne bell 1.8 blower.Base timing 10, fuel pressure 40 with vac line off.It runs rich at idle with or without the blower.I ran it without blower and it was a little worse with the blower it is still rich at idle.O2 sensors are about 10 to 12 inches from rear exhaust ports on both sides.plugs .35 1 range colder copper core autolites no blower standard heat range copper core .45 gap.hope that helps for info.

cobradoc · Sep 15, 2009

What PCM?A4L etc...Some early MAF sytems still had a Baro sensor and if you use a map sensor in it's place it will run you ragged.Make sure you do not have a vacuum leak,it is unmetered air and it lowers your manifold vacuum.

Steve83 · Sep 15, 2009

Too many unknowns... Where did all these "new" components come from - NAPA, or the zone? Did you test any of them? Did the engine ever run right? Do you have all the original Ford stuff to swap in (1-at-a-time)?

I'd remove the blower, get it running right, then slowly work it over to what you want.

patr1ck · Sep 15, 2009

Does your scanner allow you to look at any of the sensor inputs?

Pat

EFI running rich

57baja

Full Member

Steve83

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patr1ck

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ransil

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patr1ck

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ransil

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57baja

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cobradoc

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Steve83

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patr1ck

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