How to install a 5.0

MyOriginal66 · Sep 17, 2009

Sure there are plenty of threads on this, but I can't seem to find 'em. Looking at a '91 Mustang GT 5.0 auto. Buying whole car for $800.00. Runs and drives good, but it's got 200k. I'll do a mild rebuild before install. Any help, info, tech, links, or jokes in general to help the process would be great!;D

73azbronco · Sep 17, 2009

Two headhunters are eating a clown, one looks at the other and asks, "does this taste funny to you"?

Good luck, you might want more than a mild rebuild at 200K... Tranny may not fit right, anybody else? EFI?

MyOriginal66 · Sep 17, 2009

73azbronco said:
Two headhunters are eating a clown, one looks at the other and asks, "does this taste funny to you"?

LOL

Good luck, you might want more than a mild rebuild at 200K... Tranny may not fit right, anybody else? EFI?

By mild, I meant keeping it mostly stock. Just want it smooth and quiet with good (for a V8) mileage.

gddyap · Sep 17, 2009

Here's Wickert's write-up on EFI install over on Broncofix:

http://www.broncofix.com/viewtopic.php?t=261589

It was the basic procedure that a lot of people followed when putting in EFI, way before Ryan. Otherwise head over to Ryan's site, fordfuelinjection.com

The auto is probably an AOD. Check the tech articles here for some general info on putting in an AOD.

yakelys69 · Sep 17, 2009

I read a joke about a 5.0 install. "It's the easiest swap around"

flex-plate or flywheel / balance
engine mount / clearance with something or another
clutch / pivot mounting hole
radiator inlet / outlet
The front dress fits like a elephant in a phone booth

but don't listen to me.

NORCALKD · Sep 18, 2009

Fordfuelinjection.com and find yourself just a mustang motor on craigslist complete with less miles. You will do fine.

Kyle

MyOriginal66 · Sep 18, 2009

Does anyone have a break down of additional parts I will need? What issues will I face. Who, if anyone offers a efi gas tank? What other pifalls will I fall into? Wanna use the tranny as well

Socal Tom · Sep 18, 2009

The engine is basically a bolt in proposition. There is lots of stuff on Fordfuelinjection.com on the EFI install.

The serp setup is a tight fit, but it will work. The trans would need to have an AOD adapter installed, new brackets and shifter, new driveshafts.
Tom

broncaholic · Sep 18, 2009

"There is lots of stuff on Fordfuelinjection.com on the EFI install."

I am running a tank from NWMP purchased from WH. BC's has alot of parts needed and a pretty good selection under EFI, ie., fuel lines, RR fans, water pumps (so you won't need to change your stock radiator), wiring harness, etc... Just finishing mine up out of a '92 Lincoln MKVII. Impressed with the RJM harness. Easy install and good directions.

itsabronco · Sep 18, 2009

watch the serpintine set up. I believe the water pump has reverse rotation and the inlet and outlet are on opposite sides of the stock radiator. Thats what I got from BCB. I have a 4spd manual and the dilema I am on now is trying to figure out how to use the computer. I just bought the exact same car to do the same thing. I havent jumped into it yet because I am still researching and asking alot of questions. The crew on this website are very helpful!!

LilRedBronco · Sep 18, 2009

OP out of curiosity why did you decide to go with the 5.0 out of a Fox body? I am curious because I am thinking of doing a swap but out of all the options that I have explored, to me personally, that swap seems like the most difficult/least return on investment so to speak.

This may be your opportunity to keep me from doing something stupid

And I know you woke up today thinking gee if I could just stop John from doing something else stupid, my day will be complete.

itsabronco · Sep 18, 2009

LilRedBronco said:
OP out of curiosity why did you decide to go with the 5.0 out of a Fox body? I am curious because I am thinking of doing a swap but out of all the options that I have explored, to me personally, that swap seems like the most difficult/least return on investment so to speak.
LilRed, just have to find a descent 5.0 GT for a cheap price(they are worth more than other cars) You get more money in return for a good rolling chassis. You also have to consider how much money you would spend buying the parts you need individually, the hassle of searching, is everything in specs with each other? Does everything work? All kinds of variables. I bought a 91 gt convt. been driving it for a month to make sure it is A-OK. Paid $1100 for it. 89,000 orig miles, (did a carfax before purch.) Interior is just alittle dirty, paint is dull, one dent on hood, rag top is thrashed, got the chassis sold already for $800. I was prepared to spend alot more money than that to inject the engine in my bronco. Now I have an engine and complete EFI system for $300!!! It has payed off for me

moe d · Sep 18, 2009

i just did one and ran into a ton of problems.. my advise to you is the following.. if you dont have power steering and A/C, ditch the serp. buy a v-drive pulley kit from CVF racing, hope you dont have GT40P heads or you will either need the 499 headers from one of our vendors or you need to beat the hell out of a new set of headman headers to work with those heads. Buy the clutch pivot mounting bracket from WH. you need a 50 oz inbalance flywheel from a 81-98 F-150, keep your old flex plate.. I tried to stick with the serp set up but not enough room for a fan and didnt like the way the added pulleys looked when i eliminated the power steering pump. Also the serp has a reverse rotation water pump with an inlet on the drivers side. Your stock Rad is passenger side outlet.. Either run a longer hose or need a new driver outlet rad. or need to go to a reverse rotation water pump with passenger inlet..

Long in short, not an " easy " swap. It is well worth it.. I would also suggest going carb instead of EFI. save the headache of trying to wire that up and go with a edelbrock intake with a edelbrock 4 bbl carb.

just my 2 cents..

Socal Tom · Sep 18, 2009

LilRedBronco said:
OP out of curiosity why did you decide to go with the 5.0 out of a Fox body? I am curious because I am thinking of doing a swap but out of all the options that I have explored, to me personally, that swap seems like the most difficult/least return on investment so to speak.

This may be your opportunity to keep me from doing something stupid And I know you woke up today thinking gee if I could just stop John from doing something else stupid, my day will be complete.

I disagree completely. The 5.0 HO engine is an cheap and easy way to add 70 HP ( or more), improved reliability and better driveability for a cheap price if you are willing to shop a little.

Tom

Socal Tom · Sep 18, 2009

moe d said:
i just did one and ran into a ton of problems.. my advise to you is the following.. if you dont have power steering and A/C, ditch the serp. buy a v-drive pulley kit from CVF racing, hope you dont have GT40P heads or you will either need the 499 headers from one of our vendors or you need to beat the hell out of a new set of headman headers to work with those heads. Buy the clutch pivot mounting bracket from WH. you need a 50 oz inbalance flywheel from a 81-98 F-150, keep your old flex plate.. I tried to stick with the serp set up but not enough room for a fan and didnt like the way the added pulleys looked when i eliminated the power steering pump. Also the serp has a reverse rotation water pump with an inlet on the drivers side. Your stock Rad is passenger side outlet.. Either run a longer hose or need a new driver outlet rad. or need to go to a reverse rotation water pump with passenger inlet..

Long in short, not an " easy " swap. It is well worth it.. I would also suggest going carb instead of EFI. save the headache of trying to wire that up and go with a edelbrock intake with a edelbrock 4 bbl carb.

just my 2 cents..

The P heads were in the Explorers, not the mustangs. I think the serp setup is not that big of a deal. There is room for a fan if you have a 3 row radiator and you get the right spacer.
There are a couple of ways to deal with the water pump outlet. A cross over pipe ( I made mine from copper pipe) or BC broncos has a bidirectional water pump with the outlet on the passenger side that supposedly works.

Besides if you want to run a big alternator, the serp will do it without squealing.
TOm

yakelys69 · Sep 18, 2009

Socal Tom said:
I think the serp setup is not that big of a deal. There is room for a fan if you have a 3 row radiator and you get the right spacer.
TOm

Socal Tom
Do you have a picture of that setup?

moe d · Sep 18, 2009

i only see a benefit of running a serp if you have P/S or A/C otherwise the 3 pulley v-belt looks cleaner

LilRedBronco · Sep 18, 2009

itsabronco said:
LilRedBronco said:

OP out of curiosity why did you decide to go with the 5.0 out of a Fox body? I am curious because I am thinking of doing a swap but out of all the options that I have explored, to me personally, that swap seems like the most difficult/least return on investment so to speak.
LilRed, just have to find a descent 5.0 GT for a cheap price(they are worth more than other cars) You get more money in return for a good rolling chassis. You also have to consider how much money you would spend buying the parts you need individually, the hassle of searching, is everything in specs with each other? Does everything work? All kinds of variables. I bought a 91 gt convt. been driving it for a month to make sure it is A-OK. Paid $1100 for it. 89,000 orig miles, (did a carfax before purch.) Interior is just alittle dirty, paint is dull, one dent on hood, rag top is thrashed, got the chassis sold already for $800. I was prepared to spend alot more money than that to inject the engine in my bronco. Now I have an engine and complete EFI system for $300!!! It has payed off for me

Click to expand...

OK I guess if you want a fuelie and are ready to deal with a chassis and selling it etc. that does make sense I hadn't thought of that because I am only interested in an engine and rebuilding it. I barely have time to breath with work and travel for work so dragging a chassis home to sit in the yard hoping someone will buy it is not in the cards for me.

Dealing with all of that extra stuff just isn't in the cards for me right now. I go between Europe, Middle East, Africa and India a lot and it is usually a fairly quick heads up that I am going as in 2 days max sometimes.

I get the idea of selling it to make the money to offset that initial cost but that just isn't feasible for me and I am kind of risk adverse when it comes to selling a whole empty chassis. And the EFI stuff as of right now isn't what I want in my 72. A lot of people keep telling me to get EFI but not even a little interested in that set up.

Anyhow, thanks for the answer it does indeed explain it.

Socal Tom · Sep 18, 2009

yakelys69 said:
Socal Tom
Do you have a picture of that setup?

I don't, but I have a thicker 4 row radiator so I had to push my core forward.

From what I've been able to find on the web, EBs came with 2 different water pumps. The early ones were 5.1inches long, the laters ( like my brothers 77) was 5.7 inches long. The mustang setup is 5.71 inches long.

On my brothers 77, he has about 3 1/2 inches between the radiator and the water pump, so that won't change if he were to put in the mustang. Using a flex-a-lite or derale race fan ( 1&3/4 deep, and I believe a 3/4 inch spacer there should would be about 3/4 of an inch between the fan and the radiator.
Tom

LilRedBronco · Sep 18, 2009

Socal Tom said:
I disagree completely. The 5.0 HO engine is an cheap and easy way to add 70 HP ( or more), improved reliability and better driveability for a cheap price if you are willing to shop a little.

Tom

So tearing an engine out of a car, tearing it down, machining it and then rebuilding it is cheaper? I now understand due to the explanation above about selling the chassis etc. but to me all of that extra time spent taking it out and taking it apart just to start, especially with that many miles as this one has doesn't sound efficient or cheap to me.

My thought is that with an engine like that you may or may not have serviceable parts to bolt back on. Or they make be honked up enough that you don't want to attach it to your pretty new motor.

I am probably way under thinking this though and am dazzled at the idea of starting with a bare block or even as I have seen locally on Craig's list a nice rebuilt short block 351W for 825 or a 351W with heads, crank shaft but only the block cleaned up in a tank, no machining for 200.00.

I'll definitely have to open my little mind and let this idea in as well. thanks for the scoop.

How to install a 5.0

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Sr. Member

Jr. Member

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Full Member

Sr. Member

Sr. Member

Sr. Member

Sr. Member

Attachments

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Sr. Member

Sr. Member

Sr. Member

Bronco Guru

Sr. Member

Similar threads