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TRO question

addicted

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Jun 7, 2009
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I was just thinking about my disk brake conversion. I want to run the fullsize Ford set up. I hear that the steering arms are about 3" lower than one the stock EB knuckles. So with that in mind, if I also run a TRO set up, then I shouldnt have to worry about contact with a track bar drop bracket, right? School me if my thinking is wrong please. Thanks!
 

broncnaz

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May 22, 2003
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24,341
Sometimes there can be interferance with the bottom trac bar mount bolt. Usually you can shorten the end of the bolt a little to gain any needed clearance. or someo people go witha trac bar riser.
I've never heard of any issues with the trac bar drop bracket and TRO. I cant really see where there would be any.
 

la77

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Aug 5, 2004
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487
Loc.
Alexandria LA
the f150 nuckles tierod location is the same as the bronco drum nuckle location. the stock 76-77 disk nuckle location is higher but only like an inch or little more, they are also closer to the wheel. I have f150 nuckles on my 77 because the tierod ends where nocking the wheel weights off of 10" wheels on the stock setup wiht an ealier style tierod setup. 76-77 stock have the inverted "y" setup. like broncnaz said you just cut off the extra threads on the rad arm end and be ok.
 

broncnaz

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My F150/BB knuckles mounted the tie rod lower than the stock drum brake knuckles. Not reals sure about how much I cant really remember I'd have to go take some measurements. I also developed a small amount of bumpsteer after the brake swap. Did a TRO and it fixed that. But yes the 78/79 f150/BB knuckles will have more clearnace between the steering arm and wheel like the standard drum brake knuckle.
 

Bronco Brian

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1,140
I was just thinking about my disk brake conversion. I want to run the fullsize Ford set up. I hear that the steering arms are about 3" lower than one the stock EB knuckles. So with that in mind, if I also run a TRO set up, then I shouldnt have to worry about contact with a track bar drop bracket, right? School me if my thinking is wrong please. Thanks!

I used fulll size knucle out for disc. With the TRO and a frame mount drop bracket. 1st time out it BENT THE TIE ROD. And I was not wheeling hard littlie river bottom running. Go with w riser you will be happy.
 
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addicted

addicted

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I used fulll size knucle out for disc. With the TRO and a frame mount drop bracket. 1st time out it BENT THE TIE ROD. And I was not wheeling hard littlie river bottom running. Go with w riser you will be happy.

See, thats what I've heard about doing a TRO with stock knuckles. Just didnt know if it was a concern with the FS knuckles. I guess the riser would be the safest bet
 

broncnaz

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I havent had a issue with mine and I didnt even need to clearance the bottom bolt. Its been on for quite a few years 8 or 9. and lots of wheeling since then.
I highly doubt that the tie rod would bend because of hitting the bolt it takes a lot more than that to bend one. I've wacked a rock pretty good with mine and it was barely bent. I did have to pull it back forward though as the adjuster sleeve caught on the bottom drag link bolt on the next turn.

Basically you just need to make sure there is clearance when the wheels are fully turned.
 

DirtDonk

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I've never heard of any issues with the trac bar drop bracket and TRO. I cant really see where there would be any.

I have, but the last time I experienced it personally, it was on a '77, which has the longer bracket from the factory. And in this case, no drop bracket was used and the GM TRO setup hit the STOCK bracket.


the f150 nuckles tierod location is the same as the bronco drum nuckle location.

Like others, I thought mine was just a bit lower than the original EB too, when I first put them on. Unfortunately though, I didn't measure them to compare. They just looked just slightly (certainly not 3" though) lower.

Addicted, I just measured my current knuckles ('75 F150, according the the junkyard) and the top of the steering arm sits exactly 1.125" below the bottom edge of the trackbar mount bolt (the bolt, not the nut). Which means, in my case at least, the tie-rod would definitely be in the same plane as the bolt with a TRO setup.
Which also means, that even if the truck knuckles are lower, it's not enough to compensate for a TRO.
So whether or not the upper trackbar mount would ever be an issue, the lower mount would still be something to be concerned with.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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...I havent had a issue with mine and I didnt even need to clearance the bottom bolt. Its been on for quite a few years 8 or 9. and lots of wheeling since then.

...Basically you just need to make sure there is clearance when the wheels are fully turned.

So you can turn full to the lock and not hit the bolt? That's cool. I've seen some like that, but seen more that did indeed hit the bolt before getting to full steering lock.
Do you think your steering stops could be adjusted out a little more due to larger tires hitting the radius arms or something?
Is it possible that your knuckles are sporting longer steering arms that give just a little more clearance?

Just curious where some differ from others.

Paul
 
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addicted

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Well thanks for the info Paul. Do you think a track bar riser would solve the problem or do I need to completely rethink my plans. I was hoping for the ford disk swap and 3.5 suspension lift. Thanks
 

DirtDonk

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Well, I guess it would depend on how the riser mounted, but if they all get rid of the lower bolt (or at least allow you to shorten it) then I would think it would work just fine for a TRO.

Don't know if I'd say you have to re-think your plans. That would depend on how much thinking you've done up to this point! No matter what components you end up using though, if you do a TRO you always have to put EVERYTHING into the equation.
After all, you're not only trying to gain clearance for the tie-rod and keep the steering link angles shallow, but also trying keep the angles of your trackbar and drag-link as parallel as possible, while making sure you don't over-bore your newly reamed tapered holes and getting full articulation of the suspension while making sure nothing hits anything else.
Not to mention making sure your wheels have clearance with the new position of the rod-ends.

So, no matter what you do, you have to compare the position of the new lower mount, the drop of your pitman arm (stock may be best at this point), the location of your upper trackbar mount in comparison to your newly raised tie-rod and your old lower trackbar bolt (if still there) with your tie-rod at full lock.

See? Simple.

Paul
 
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addicted

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Oh yea, super easy! Haha. I originally thought about all this when someone siad the tie rod mounts on on the Ford swap knuckles were lower than the stock EB drum knuckles. I also remember someone saying that if you do a TRO on stock knuckles that the steering link will sit up 3" higher than before so you have to use a stock pitman arm and track bar riser to get the geometry right and not have contact issues with the track bar drop bracket. So, I figured with the TRO on the swap knuckels, the link would end up roughly in the same place as before. Meaning I wouldnt have to worry about the steering geometry or track bar issues. Some people are saying they had problems and some dont, so Im wondering if different year F150 and big Bronco knuckles had different tie rod connection heights. Even writing it out sounds confusing!!
 

broncnaz

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So you can turn full to the lock and not hit the bolt? That's cool. I've seen some like that, but seen more that did indeed hit the bolt before getting to full steering lock.
Do you think your steering stops could be adjusted out a little more due to larger tires hitting the radius arms or something?
Is it possible that your knuckles are sporting longer steering arms that give just a little more clearance?

Just curious where some differ from others.

Paul

78/79 knuckles on 73 EB D44. Mine Shouldnt be any longer than anybody elses 78/79 knuckles I've adjusted my steering stops both ways and it didnt hit. My tires dont rub the radius arms although I think they would if I took the steering stops off. But its been a long time.
but I do have to make sure the adjuster clamps on the tierod sleeve are turned down or forward or they will hit the bolt. Maybe I just got lucky I dont know.
I'll try and get some measurements off my 73 and compare them to my 71.
The 3 in differance thing is going from tie rod under to tierod over. That I do know offhand.

For what ever reason my disc brake swap developed bumpsteer the only thing that was changed at that time was the brakes. Then I decided to do a TRO and bumpsteer when away. Later on I also put on a adjustable trac bar to recenter my axle. 76/77's are whole different animals
 

DirtDonk

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Thanks. I'll measure mine too ('75 or '76 F150) and see if there's any difference.
I wonder what a good point-of-reference would be?

Paul
 

broncnaz

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Alrighty I took some pics there not the best but I think you will be able to see the differance in the stock D44 knuckle and 78/79 knuckle. I did measure a few things here's what I come up with the 78 knuckle mounts the tierod about 1" lower than stock EB knuckles. I referanced the differance off the centerline of the axle shafts.

The center of the tierod on the 78 knuckle is about 2 1/2" away from the center of the radius arm cap where on the stock EB knuckle the tie rod is about 2 1/4" away.
First pic is a stock 71 EB knuckle and 2nd pic is a 78/79 knuckle on a 73 EB.
 

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