EFI Manifold Hitting Brake Booster

Getting close to the end of my EFI install and ran into a slight problem when I went o put on the Trick Flow upper intake manifold. It is slightly touching the brake booster and when the engine moves under load the two will be fighting in the engine bay. I do not want to clearance the intake and I can only take a little material away from the booster arm. I replaced the engine mounts when the engine was swapped. Do I need the extreme motor mounts? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Don't the extreme mounts raise the engine a little? If so, where would that put you?
I would clearance the bracket, of course, but what is the limiting factory there? Do you need to grind too much down and would run into the pivoting areas or shaft?
How much movement do you think you could come up with, before binding, by re-drilling the bracket's mounting holes over a bit? Slotting them, in other words.

Of course, I hate to say "you need another plenum" just yet, but if you can't grind, your options get slimmer and slimmer!

Good luck. Can't wait to hear if anyone else has had this issue.

Paul

Looks like a good time for a Hydro boost upgrade.

My plan is to move the bracket and slott the holes. How much room do I need around the Trick flow upper manifold?

No way to tell from here i would say. Generically though, the answer falls under: Just how much can you move your bracket (before binding) and how much does your engine move under torque?

Paul

The engine only rocks that way under engine braking, so it shouldn't take much to hold it away. How about a limiting strap on the R side? A turnbuckle & a nylon strap from the plenum to the R spring tower should do it.

Or is the plenum reversible like the Mustang/Crown Vic? I built Frank's facing the other way.

I haven't got around to my efi swap yet, but in anticipation for it, I relocated my M/C about 4" toward the fender when I did my hydroboost conversion. The hardest part was making a 4" extension off the left side of the brake pedal for the push rod to attach to. That took about half a day to get everything to clear and fit properly. But I have lots of room to spare now.

A limiting strap would look like pure ass when you lift the hood! And would guarantee you would get alot of these kinds of looks%)....

I have about 1/4-1/3" clearance between my GT/40 intake and my hydroboost, it rarely/if ever contacts so I would shoot for that much room at a minimum.

You could try a variety of things to gain small increments of room. Here's a couple of easy and effective ideas;

1. Add a large (1/8"-1/4" thick) body washer under the drivers side engine mount.

2. Clearance a small amount to the corner of the intake manifold, and to the brake booster bracket.

3. As mentioned you could clearance (egg out) the booster bracket holes in the firewall.

4. Another option if you have the under hood clearance would be to add an intake spacer between the upper and lower. I think the standard is 3/8", but I'm not sure if there's a Trick Flow spacer available. That's why it's last...

I'd be willing to bet if you did 2 or more of these simple mods' you'll end up with enough clearance and it will still look somewhat stock. Do it right and it will look stock!

You might try checking the motor mount positions. You may be able to loosen the bolts going to the frame and slide it to the passenger side. You can also loosen the body mounts and do the same, only shifting the body towards the drivers side. That may give you the clearance you need. Like what was posted above, under torque, the engine will rotate to the passenger side.

needabronco said:

A limiting strap would look like pure ass when you lift the hood! And would guarantee you would get alot of these kinds of looks...

Click to expand...

If other people's LOOKs are your primary concern when building your truck, go buy something new & chromey. No one cares what's under the hood if you can keep up with the group on the trails.