Best way to 3 link a front dana 60

Silverhorse · Nov 10, 2009

I'll be going 1 ton before long on my trail rig. I'm keeping the stock type coil and trac bar. I would like to see what others have done to install the 60. I won't be using C's wedges. I have thought about using Cage arms, Rubicon Express long arms etc... Mine is 1990 dana 60 FYI.

DanWheeler · Nov 10, 2009

Silverhorse said:
I'll be going 1 ton before long on my trail rig. I'm keeping the stock type coil and trac bar. I would like to see what others have done to install the 60. I won't be using C's wedges. Cage arms, Rubicon Express long arms etc... Mine is 1990 dana 60 FYI.

Me too - subscribed!

DanWheeler · Nov 10, 2009

One thing i've been tossing around in my head is copying the Jeep 5-link front design. Four parallel, equal length (I think) control arms and a trackbar.

I know it works - i have to watch my friend's jeeps crawl over everything with ease even with open fronts and then there's me, bouncing around being all tippy and unstable.

ken75ranger · Nov 11, 2009

Silverhorse,
Since your going to be building-welding for the 3 link anyway you should consider moving the lower trac bar mount.
A longer and flatter tracbar will keep the axle centered better through the range of motion.
If your planning on heim or chevy crossover steering. It really helps your steering geometry if you get your tracbar over closer to the knuckle.
Danwheeler
That's how my rig is setup. If the arms are long you won't get too much binding. With the right design you could take off an upper arm for a weekend of hard wheeling then put it back for the saftely aspect of 2 upper links for regular DD duties.

Silverhorse · Nov 11, 2009

Thanks for posting guys. I do like the jeep 5 link. I have been interested in it since Greasball did his in Bronco Driver. Wish we could get more pics of it!
Ken, could you post pics of your set-up from in front of the front axle? Thanks

DanWheeler · Nov 11, 2009

ken75ranger said:
Silverhorse,
Since your going to be building-welding for the 3 link anyway you should consider moving the lower trac bar mount.

do you just mean raising the lower mount or something else?

ken75ranger said:
With the right design you could take off an upper arm for a weekend of hard wheeling then put it back for the saftely aspect of 2 upper links for regular DD duties.

Are you saying a 5-link wont flex as well as a 5-link with a missing arm? (3 link w/ panhard)

carter2772 · Nov 11, 2009

I installed Cage brackets on my D 60 front. I have not used it yet, but have been told they are they way to go. I have JD long arms.

DanWheeler · Nov 11, 2009

carter2772 said:
I installed Cage brackets on my D 60 front. I have not used it yet, but have been told they are they way to go. I have JD long arms.

what kind of cage brackets? What do they do?

carter2772 · Nov 11, 2009

DanWheeler said:
what kind of cage brackets? What do they do?

They are weld on brackets, they attach Cage or Duff radius arms to the axle. Replacing the c cups. I will see if i can find a pic.

carter2772 · Nov 11, 2009

Here is a thread i did a while ago..

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134922

DanWheeler · Nov 11, 2009

carter2772 said:
Here is a thread i did a while ago..

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134922

ah, i think i remember that thread.

I think you will find yourself replacing those 4 bushings constantly if you take it offroad often.

All the force the C-bushings used to handle is now put onto those 4 little bushings. I think they will egg themselves out after a few trips.

I see a guy out on the trail every once and a while who has the JD arms welded to his D60. He says he replaces bushings every 2-3 trips.

kb6677 · Nov 11, 2009

FWIW- When we did the beater rig, we ran into a wheelbase issue if we stretched the front out to clear a triangulated 4 link(read tooooo long w/o rear steer), the oil pan, ds. and some other issues compounded the 4link problem. So, did some talking to comp guys who have built much stuff over the years and settled on the 3 link instead of the parallel 4link which we could have done. The 3link when set up properly is a little more "usable" in their opinion. Here are some pics of mine- "Ylink" is on the driver side, trac. bar runs from d.s. frame down to the tube on the pas. side.
Brackets available from ballistic or poly, 1.25 heims as well, we did upgrade the top link to a 7/8 chromo heim after my buddy had a 3/4 heim separate on him this summer resulting in major problems.........

DanWheeler · Nov 11, 2009

kb6677 said:
FWIW- When we did the beater rig, we ran into a wheelbase issue if we stretched the front out to clear a 4 link(read tooooo long w/o rear steer), the oil pan, ds. and so other issues compounded the 4link problem. So, did some talking to comp guys who have built much stuff over the years and settled on the 3 link instead of the parallel 4link which we could have done. The 3link when set up properly is a little more "usable" in their opinion. Here are some pics of mine- "Ylink" is on the driver side, trac. bar runs from d.s. frame down to the tube on the pas. side.
Brackets available from ballistic or poly, 1.25 heims as well, we did upgrade the top link to a 7/8 chromo heim after my buddy had a 3/4 heim separate on him this summer resulting in major problems.........

wow I would have never though to weld a brace between the lower and upper part of the Y-arm. That kind of makes it pointless to use heims for the upper and lower connection points doesn't it?

If you have that part of the Y-arm welded, why not just weld the arms directly to the axle?

The advantage of having joints on both ends (at the axle and saddle) is that it gives you the ability to adjust caster.

I keep forgetting there are trusses readily available for Dana 60 axles. That makes it a much easier decision to go with the single Y-arm on the driver's side. My main concern with that configuration is the axle tubes slipping.

Essentially, a Y-arm config is the same as using 1 wristed arm except its actually a little stiffer because your stiff side has heims instead of a c-bushing. I've always heard mixed things about a wristed arm setup but I've never heard anyone complain that it doesn't flex well.

DanWheeler · Nov 11, 2009

kb6677 said:
FWIW- When we did the beater rig, we ran into a wheelbase issue if we stretched the front out to clear a triangulated 4 link(read tooooo long w/o rear steer), the oil pan, ds. and some other issues compounded the 4link problem. So, did some talking to comp guys who have built much stuff over the years and settled on the 3 link instead of the parallel 4link which we could have done. The 3link when set up properly is a little more "usable" in their opinion. Here are some pics of mine- "Ylink" is on the driver side, trac. bar runs from d.s. frame down to the tube on the pas. side.
Brackets available from ballistic or poly, 1.25 heims as well, we did upgrade the top link to a 7/8 chromo heim after my buddy had a 3/4 heim separate on him this summer resulting in major problems.........

btw - looks awesome - do you shock/coilover towers connect to each other across the engine bay? what are those, air shocks?

kb6677 · Nov 11, 2009

DanWheeler said:
wow I would have never though to weld a brace between the lower and upper part of the Y-arm. That kind of makes it pointless to use heims for the upper and lower connection points doesn't it?

If you have that part of the Y-arm welded, why not just weld the arms directly to the axle?

The advantage of having joints on both ends (at the axle and saddle) is that it gives you the ability to adjust caster.

I keep forgetting there are trusses readily available for Dana 60 axles. That makes it a much easier decision to go with the single Y-arm on the driver's side. My main concern with that configuration is the axle tubes slipping.

Essentially, a Y-arm config is the same as using 1 wristed arm except its actually a little stiffer because your stiff side has heims instead of a c-bushing. I've always heard mixed things about a wristed arm setup but I've never heard anyone complain that it doesn't flex well.

The reason for the brace between the top and bottom is to eliminate the front axle output(d.s. attachment) moving upon droop- the parallel links even on one side allows the pinion output to move during droop resulting in drive shaft issues. Yes, it does work like radius arms, key word-"works" I will pass on your idea of welding the arms to the tube-thanks

kb6677 · Nov 11, 2009

DanWheeler said:
btw - looks awesome - do you shock/coilover towers connect to each other across the engine bay? what are those, air shocks?

Thanks, yes, the towers are connected-I will take a pic tomorrow of the brace. The shocks are Fox 2.5" 14" travel air shocks.

DanWheeler · Nov 11, 2009

kb6677 said:
The reason for the brace between the top and bottom is to eliminate the front axle output(d.s. attachment) moving upon droop- the parallel links even on one side allows the pinion output to move during droop resulting in drive shaft issues. Yes, it does work like radius arms, key word-"works" I will pass on your idea of welding the arms to the tube-thanks

ok, i think we are talking about different things. The brace I'm talking about is the short 5-6" piece of tube welded between the Y part of your upper and lower links on the driver's side.

You bring up a good point about pinion angle with a parallel 4 link setup w/ panhard. With a solid arm on one side, the pinion is always pointed straight at the transfer case regardless of axle articulation as the axle travels along an arc. With a 5-link, your pinion angle will likely remain the same causing driveshaft issues like you mentioned.

DanWheeler · Nov 11, 2009

kb6677 said:
I will pass on your idea of welding the arms to the tube-thanks

you wouldn't want to actually weld the driver's side arm directly to the axle because then you wouldn't be able to remove it but you could build something that attaches with bolts instead of heims.

I still think it makes more sense to use a saddle on the lower arm to connect the upper part of the Y link w/ heims. Gives you caster adjustability.

Can you ask your fabricators why they welded the upper and lower part of the Y link?

Silverhorse · Nov 11, 2009

Hey Karl, Your set-up is what I had in mind. Can you give me a ballpark on cost of the bars/links.

rhinobuggie · Nov 11, 2009

Is the front axle full width ? If not does the tires hit the lower tubes ?
Jay

Best way to 3 link a front dana 60

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