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Dan Wheeler's Explorer EFI Swap Thread

DanWheeler

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 8, 2005
Messages
2,549
Loc.
Kirkland, WA
I have replaced page one (what you see directly below) of this thread with a summary of roughly 25 pages of questions and answers and 3 months of work. Many thanks to everyone who helped me with this project - I could never have done this without your help. This summary is not complete but its a pretty good capture of everything I ran into and whenever possibe, I'll add explanation of why I did the things I did.

Enjoy!
Dan


Basic Parts List:
- 96 Explorer 5.0/V8- $750
- - - 96 has GT-40 heads which match 302 exhaust manifold pattern
- - - 97+ has GT-40P heads which will require different headers
- RJM unwrapped harness - $450
- - - Because I flipped the intake and would need to do lots of customizing
- A9P ECU from EBay - $??? (A9P for auto / A9L for manual - or research your own)
- New distributor (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850411/) - $200
- New coil (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-853011/) - $35
- BP sensor from junkyard
- ACT sensor from junkyard
- A/C delete serpentine belt Gates K060825 (or Goodyear 4060832)
- Hedman Headers 88400
- 96 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 2-core Radiator (www.discountautoradiator.com)

Miscellaneous Notes:
- Flywheel for Explorer 5.0 is 50oz internal balance
- firing order is H.O. 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 counter clockwise looking down on the distributor
- Cut/Bend/Pound front crossmember where lower idler pulley hits on passenger side
- Ground cable on back of Explorer motor goes to firewall
- Ground cable from battery to block on passenger side
- only green wire is needed for TPS/Baumannator-ECU connectvity

Other Resources:

MUST READ
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=62

EFI Sensors Overview
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=10

ECU Self Test
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

EFI "No Start" guide
http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=588.0

How to set timing Ford EFI
http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=7114.0

Western Union wire splicing method
http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm

Dan Wheeler's Explorer 4.0 Radiator / Taurus Fan thread:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152260

Explorer 5.0 Serpentine Accessory Drive Belt Conversion
http://classicbroncos.com/tech/explorer-5-0-serpentine-accessory-drive-belt-conversion


Here we go...


Remove old engine and prepare new Explorer 5.0 for installation
718616679_LtQ7G-S.jpg



Replace water pump (replace timing chain if you feel inclined)
758628741_J7QcR-S.jpg


Remove A/C unit. It will do you no good as an air compressor. It has been proven unfit for OBA.

Remove serpentine belt. Re-install an A/C delete belt later

Remove oil cooler. You will need the threaded tube that goes into the place where the oil cooler was. I found mine at a junkyard and I remember it being difficult to find the right size to thread into the block
723361646_ByEfo-S.jpg



*** EGR / Upper Manifold ***
- Remove upper intake
- shove paper towels into upper intake below EGR port
- tap EGR port with 1/2" NPT tap from Harbor Freight
- plug with 1/2" NPT plug from Home Dept
781887849_MXVF7-S.jpg

781888123_dDZBW-S.jpg


- I decided to flip my intake for several reasons. I'm glad I did it but I don't recommend it.

- Plug almost all vacuum lines
http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/s...xplorer&page=3
attachment.php


Remove old harness, coil packs, and all other stuff you don't need or things that could be damaged by your hoisting chains and equipment

Transfer headers or exhaust manifolds to new engine

Put engine in truck
723362271_fwvMY-S.jpg



Clearance/cut/bend/pound front passenger side crossmember for idler pulley
744373452_Hujii-S.jpg



*** Distributor ***
Install distributor
http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=7114.0


*** BP Sensor ***
- Find a BP (Barometric Pressure) sensor in the junkyard. Do not use a MAP sensor.
- Mount BP on firewall
- A true BP sensor will have a little grey cap on it and will not be connected to vacuum when you find it
baro.jpg



*** ACT (Air Charge Temperatur) / Airbox ***
- Your ACT can go anywhere. Airbox, dragging behind the truck, intake tube, etc
- I got mine from a V6 Explorer. It has a twist-lock design
- I got my fresh air box from a Thunderbird/Cougar (I think)
747923961_aSQJV-S.jpg

747924599_6Ee6o-S.jpg

747924129_6kJP3-S.jpg

747924802_v6Pm6-S.jpg



*** Throttle Body ***
- Explorer throttle body is 65mm.
- Felpro #61082 for EGR housing (elbow) to throttle body
- Felpro #61081 for the EGR housing (elbow) to intake manifold
- Adjustment screw on Explorer TB is not an idle adjust.
- I chopped and machined my elbow to clear the h-boost with flipped intake
728716407_WTDTf-S.jpg

729538655_WuaXs-S.jpg

789698270_JL3rT-S.jpg



*** Lower Intake ***
- Use port on driver's side lower intake for ECT (stock location at heater core send/return may conflict with distributor)


*** Water Pump / Neck ***
- Drill/tap water neck for temp gauge
758628555_2eeMN-S.jpg



*** Throttle cable ***
- I combined the stock Explorer throttle cable with a BC Broncos throttle cable
- The internal wire and outer sheat are the same between the two
761326884_mEjCD-S.jpg



*** Fuel Rail ***
- For flipped intake, need driver's side, rear regulator
- Explorer fuel pressure regulator is on passenger side which conflicts with flipped intake
- F-series 351 truck is driver/rear regulator
- replace fuel rail interconnect on 351 rail with shorter EFI hose and EFI clamps
- clearance intake front and rear where needed to clear 351 fuel rail
761327207_ntp7P-S.jpg



*** Injectors ***
- Injector refresh kit from Mr. Injector on Ebay
- Use a injector plug from old harness and a momentary switch to make an injector tester (pic)
758628126_itP66-S.jpg



*** Fuel Tank ***
BC Broncos EFI tank


*** Fuel Lines ***
- I used 3/8ths feed and 5/16ths return
- I Should have used 5/16ths feed AND return because BC Broncos springlock barb connectors are both 5/16th
- BC Broncos springlock barb connectors
- 5/16ths OK up to 400+hp
- Use 92 Mustang w/ 5.0 inline fuel filter in front of high pressure inlet on fuel rail
- Stock nylon fuel return line is OK to use for return


*** Power Steering ***
Contact Lee Power steering for Explorer pump fitting
http://lee-powersteering.com/
723361016_ArgQ6-S.jpg
 
Last edited:

needabronco

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6,411
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Prescott/Farmington
Good find. Here's a couple of things you need to do. And a couple of answers to your questions.

1. Yes get rid of all of the wiring, but keep the harness in case you need to use any of the plugs.

2. I would use that dizzy as a core and order a reman. unit. (HINT, if you order one from autozone that includes the TFI, the TFI will have the 'lifetime' warranty. Ask me how I know)

3. Coolant hoses are easiest solved with the cross over pipe, you can use your stock Bronco hoses. The bottom hose will get cut in a couple of pieces and the upper works if you trim a little off of one end and slightly 'twist' the orientation.

4. As far as the timing chain goes, I tend to be cautious so yes I would put a new timing chain on while it's easy to get to and I'd put a new water pump in also, but if you feel it's 'good' for now then go ahead and hold off.

5. That sensor is part of the EDIS, I left mine in place and use it for my timing pointer. Just unplug it. Remove if you want...

6. Can't help with the ac

7. There's another disconnect for the fuel rail on top of the drivers valve cover. Disconnect that other section of hose, and you can route your fuel lines to right below the steering column, it will keep fuel lines out of the engine compartment as much as possible and look nice and clean.

8. I ditched the oil cooler/heater thing as I thought it was ugly and also assumed it would hit the crossmember or frame.

Your also going to need to figure out a way to lower the power steering reservoir. I moved mine down and back about 1.5" in order to clear the hood.

I personally think the aluminum oil pan will fit and clear the front axle, but if not just be prepaired to swap the pan.



3.
 

barronj

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Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Messages
1,859
I don't think that's a bad deal AT ALL! Not a steal, but a good bargain.
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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Thanks for the answers and information! I think I will go ahead and get a new distributor - thanks for the autozone tip.

couple more questions.

- What size is the power steering pressure port?
- Is it best to take the upper intake off to remove/install the harness?

thanks,
dan
 

needabronco

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Messages
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Search explorer power steering and it'll come up.

You will need to take the upper off, and unless you have the explorer intake tube you'll need to drill and tap the lower for the ACT, if you have the tube you can use the explorer ACT, all you have to do is swap the plug on the RJM harness. I've run mine like that for awhile now and no issues.

Don't forget to pull that TFI before you use it as a core (trail spare)...

Those coil packs and the exhaust manifolds are easy to sell on ebay...
 

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,791
label everything you pull and sell extras on ebay or craigslist.
 

Bronco_69

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Messages
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Loc.
Monette Ar
you can use those fuel connectors and run factory OEM 94 big bronco fuel lines to them. or you could get the explorer lines / filter.

you got the best explorer engine. it has true gt40 heads and an internal EGR. thefore no header issues.

you will need a custom power steering line. i went to a parker fitting store with both ends and they made me a nice hose for $25.

that throttle body is 65mm and can be made to work. you have to modify the bottom actuator. the injectors will also work.
 

lars

Contributor
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Messages
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NorCal flatlands
Well, Dan, you are diving in...

You've gotten a lot of good answers already. Search on fordfuelinjection.com and you can see how I dealt with the throttle body/throttle cable issue. The Explorer (Visteon) a/c compressor is not a good candidate for onboard air, been there done that, but there is a Sanden option that works pretty well.

I agree with the others about the distributor. Noise = bad. Get another one. If it seizes, it takes out the oil pump driveshaft, a bad thing.

I used -6 JIC plumbing for my power steering, with Aeroquip reusable JIC fittings and adapters at the various plumbing ports (power steering box, hydroboost, steering cooler, etc) to adapt to -6 JIC. Summit, Speedway Motors and others sell most of the adapters except for one critical one: the one you need for the Explorer steering pump. You can get that one from Lee Manufacturing in Sun Valley, CA along with the necessary sealing washer for around 15 bucks delivered.

The sensor aimed at the toothed wheel on the harmonic balancer is the crankshaft position sensor, part of the EDIS system that you aren't using. But it's also part of the timing pointer, which you ARE using. Keep it. You'll just not be running a cable to it.

You can re-use any existing exhaust system you already have, since with the early gt-40 (as opposed to gt-40p) heads, everything, including stock manifolds, will work fine.

Etc, etc, etc.
 

Pedestrian

Bronco Missionary
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Sep 10, 2008
Messages
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Subscribed!
I will be doing the same install very soon, please keep track of part numbers, vendors, and pricing if possible.
 

fordtrucks4ever

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DFW
That motor has a double roller timing chain. Unlike early 289/302 motors, it shouldnt need to be replaced.
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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Kirkland, WA
thanks for all the great info guy. Lars, i called Tom Lee and he probably has the part I need but he wanted some pictures of my PS pump before I order it just to make sure he sends the right part.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to leave the timing chain and water pump. I think it'll be fine.

more questions/comments

- Does this throttle body have an idle air bypass? Will the RJM harness connect to it?:
715961357_XuWTj-M.jpg


- looks like my intake isn't tapped for ACT sensor. I'll probably go with option 2 listed on the RJM site
act_fix2.jpg

what exactly is going on in that picture? Can i just tap the intake? is it thick enough?

- this is the oil pressure sender right?
715959509_uykC7-S.jpg


- what is this hole for? (the black rubber part)
715958388_y8YUE-M.jpg


- EGR blockoff - the RJM harness will have the EGR eliminator then I can just remove this part and make or buy a simple plate to block it off right?
715961146_69QVS-M.jpg


- do i really need to lower the PS reservoir if I have a 3" body lift?

- what is the counterbalance weight on this motor? 28 or 50? I have a brand new flywheel I purchased for my 4R70W that I would rather use if the weight is the same. I think the newer motors are 50oz though.

- vacuum lines - I know there's a doc somewhere explaining what to do about vacuum lines. Anyone know where that is?

- how in the world do I remove the fan? I got the pulley off and detached the fan from the clutch but that doesn't allow me to remove the fan. Not that it matters now because I am not planning on replacing the water pump or timing chain but now I'm curious. I snipped the belt and will replace it.

- the RJM website says their harness plugs in to the baumannator - what does it plug into and what does it do for you?

- what is SPOUT?

- Do I REALLY need to use an inertia switch? and if not, how can I bypass it?
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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here's a way to disconnect the spring lock connectors without a tool:

1. Cut a 1" piece of zip-tie
715962488_tpd3M-L.jpg


2. Wrap it around the upper part of the hose and slide it into the springlock connector with a pair of pliers. It should slip under the retainer spring:
715962224_nuTVA-L.jpg


3. Insert a sharp pick into the connector and pull down on the spring:
715971789_jjcDE-L.jpg


4. Push the pliers towards the spring and Ta-da!
715962738_nNN5v-L.jpg


Tool is not necessary to re-install
 
Last edited:
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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one more question - the distributor is hitting the fuel rail when I rotate it counter clockwise. could this be a problem?

715960797_Etuss-L.jpg
 

Bronco_69

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Monette Ar
lots of questions there!!

i would tap the lower intake on the un-machined boss for the IAT.

that is an IAB motor on the throttle body

if the distributor hits while setting the timing, pull it and restab it

you can buy a set of tools for the fuel connections. do it, they will be needed a few times.

the spout is a jumper wire in the harness that lets the computer control the timing. remove it and the timing is locked.
 

lars

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NorCal flatlands
Questions, questions...

1. Yes, your throttle body has an idle air bypass on it. The cylindrical thing fastened with 2 screws, sitting at an angle on top of the throttle body with the black connector. The Explorer IAB used a different connector than the Mustang version. RJM should be able to supply the harness with the correct connector, but he'll need to know that when you order it.

2. I had not heard of installing the ACT in the upper intake. I suppose it would work fine. I drilled/tapped the lower intake, front left, on the cast-in boss that was originally there for that purpose.

3. I re-used my stock Bronco oil pressure sender, including the hex-shaped extension. Easy, works.

4. Big hole with black grommet is where the PCV plugs in. The PCV is at the end of two hoses tee'd together, that should be dangling from the underside of the upper intake.

5. RJM and others sell EGR eliminator plates (for example here, halfway down the page) that replace the EGR block. Remove the throttle body from the big aluminum elbow, remove the elbow from the upper intake and discard it. Then bolt the throttle body directly to the upper intake with the EGR eliminator plate sandwiched between them. Orient the throttle body so the IAB is forwards, throttle cable bellcrank is at the bottom. The EGR eliminator plate has a tab with two holes on it for mounting a throttle cable bracket (I'm using a Mustang 5.0 cable).

6. With a 3" body lift you should be able to leave the p/s reservoir alone.

7. Explorer 5.0 motors are 50 oz.-in. external imbalance. If your flywheel is 28, you'll need to get it rebalanced or get another one. In theory an automotive machine shop should be able to rebalance it. The ones around here have given me blank stares when I asked, though.

8. The only vacuum you'll need will be for the fuel pressure regulator (cylindrical thing on the passenger side of the fuel rail near the back) and for your brake vacuum booster if you have one. Vacuum port is on the back of the upper intake.

9. Fan removal- special tool. Two big wrenches- one goes over the pulley bolts to restrain the pulley, the other fits on the hex at the back of the fan clutch. Right hand thread. Some parts stores will loan them to you. I'm a tool junkie, need only the thinnest of excuses to buy tools. So I bought my own...

10. Baumanator? I know nothing. I have an NV4500...

11. SPOUT is a small grey connector thing in the harness near the distributor. With it in place, the computer controls timing. Remove it and it's fixed. Remove to set timing, just as you'd disconnect the vacuum line on a carbureted engine.

12. You don't really need an inertia switch. I had to install one to satisfy my OCD. Mine is in the fuel pump power wire, on the drivers side kick panel above the e-brake pedal. When I tipped my Bronco over on the Rubicon several years ago, it didn't trip- I had to shut the engine off with the key.

13. I bought the tool for the fuel rail. It may have been less than 5 bucks. In any case, they aren't a high-buck item.

14. Pull the distributor and re-stab, assuming you need it to turn further counterclockwise for timing purposes. The distributor doesn't care how it's stabbed.

15. Power steering pressure port looks like all the Explorer C3 (made by Visteon) power steering pumps I've seen. Lee's fitting should work fine.

16. Left hand heater line in the upper picture is send. It comes from the hex fitting that's screwed into the lower intake.
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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thanks Lars! you are the man!, man. I really appreciate your time answering my questions in such great detail. 6daze, thanks - thats actually the build thread I had read previously that had the vacuum info I was looking for.

I'm a little confused about the 2 different EGR block off plates. One goes in place of the EGR diaphragm unit and the other goes between the upper intake and the throttle body. Do I need both or just one? I know what EGR is but what do they do? I dont understand how the exhaust gases get back into the intake. There's no hose or pipe coming up from the exhaust like a normal EGR system.
 
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