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Dan Wheeler's Dana 60 / 3 link Build Thread

DanWheeler

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Kirkland, WA
Just picked up a Dana 60 tonight. Bought it private party from Jeff at JustDifferentials.com in Cashmere, WA. What a great guy. Obviously he gave me a great deal on the axle but also spent a couple hours talking to me about all kinds of stuff including some good tips on gear setup. The plan is to collect parts and pieces over the summer and get the axle assembled and then swap it in in the fall as well as a new full width rear like a 9 or Sterling.

Specs:
- 89 F350 Kingpin Dana 60 High Pinion
- Paid $750 complete except for carrier, rotors and calipers. Disassembled
- Stock 35 spline inners
- Stock 30 spline outers
- Great Lakes diff cover
- One spindle looks like it may be pitted and may need to be replaced
- Needs bearings, lock nuts, kingpin rebuild kit

Plan:
Finally ditch the C-bushings and build some sort of 3 link. An alternative would be to use Duff long arms with the Dana 60 mounts but my preference is to build a zero-bind, neutral suspension and use a sway bar for the highway driving.

Outers will be upgraded to 35 spline most likely using drive gears/flanges/slugs - whatever you want to call them instead of Warn lockouts. Since i'm using drive flanges I'll be putting an ARB up front. (BTW - ARB is running a special until end of April - buy an ARB and get a compressor free. Buy 2 and get the heavy duty compressor free - this justdifferentials.com place is selling them for $850 which is even cheaper than polyperformance and completeoffroad. I plan on ordering 2)

I think i'm going to leave it full width. WMS is 69" which is insane and IMO looks funny (like a little kid with huge ears) and is probably going to cause me issues in the Northwest woodsy wheeling but seems like almost everyone says leave it full width.

Inners will be left stock for now to save money

Tires will probably be 38 or 39.5

Tie-rod will probably be Chevy 3/4 ton tie-rod ends straight across from knuckle to knuckle.

Drag link will connect to a Ballistic hi-steer arm just on the passenger side. Hoping to add hydraulic assist at some point.

Suspension - this is the big ??? I would like to do a 3-link plus panhard but as well all know, 3rd link placement is difficult. Not quite ready for coilovers but maybe.

Rear will be 35 spline 9" or Sterling. Probably keeping it leaf springs since I'm very happy with the flex from my Wild Horses 3.5" springs. Almost makes me want leafs in the front.

Thats all I can think of for now - here's the pics:

y3mxTdoUsulcNIl5tXAVfkfzZZ5BE2ruGAvNI70SIlo32Xlp_EPuEnxgzvxssQzSBYaa4Jx9IYIqg-MbwibXse5KEAypeTftLeaYrnn25qPyeaJCaVfRTVCCflT_6ru6QGkkc2JXHz0EwSuqXa4qsAha2d_TrJNf5LfX24hDQxEDfw


y3mBfEREOHdIJqTjeM4RZ4jlT9c5zUCAR1fJmJGUPnHkutK7O97YM1tuHlPlOAR-QWetIDbd35dPnUIXQcPE1PawFbb27ekl0H-WCsX4EaTJAwAnCRE6J39cpDRRR3YwAeHamZ0D8RK6RswM7OwFlMHrCLTQGX6qJFY4ZsbFFd5rcQ


y3mhBxHKh-OL2ct5lK7igRSccgIbAlNdRMvW2HRI6nSjdplkVJoo7WlYLg3Xo01TIf1OyNftiSFKLeFGZJwulwjfoce0NypUev_UKqtirkydLSs2g2jUVOeLJF_muzghC8wwJPV7PKoVye_6r0vzUAQop5SK1OWGzEf_DppPofHapk
 
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br0nc0xrapt0r

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just an obsevation... I would run the 60 5 on 5.5 patern and a full width 9 with 35 splines for less wieght more ground clearance and not have to change rims.
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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well a Sterling axle can be had for 1-200 bucks and already has 35 spline axle shafts and I would be able to find a full floater. I can't seem to even find 35 spline axles for a 9" and the Warn full float kit for 9" is discontinued.

blackbirdcustoms.com has a 5x5.5 conversion kit for $260 but even then I dont think my 15" wheels will fit over the calipers if I remember reading correctly on pirate a long time ago.

so $260 plus whatever 35 spline axle shafts cost IF my 15" wheels fit. Even still i'd like to keep it mostly stock so I can walk into NAPA and order rotors or calipers.

or $200 for a full floater 35 spline 10.25" rearend which matches the exact 69" WMS of my Dana 60 whereas a full width 9 I think may be slightly more narrow.

also, the Sterling I think would come with disc brakes while the 9" would require a kit of some sort.

wonder if the sterling can be shaved?
 

br0nc0xrapt0r

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Sep 28, 2007
Messages
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Did you try complete offroad? they have tons of stuff But I never looked for full width 9. Crap didn't think about the rims, well I know you can grind the piss out of those caipers and brackets but 17 inch rims would be much better.
 

70EB

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well a Sterling axle can be had for 1-200 bucks and already has 35 spline axle shafts and I would be able to find a full floater. I can't seem to even find 35 spline axles for a 9" and the Warn full float kit for 9" is discontinued.

blackbirdcustoms.com has a 5x5.5 conversion kit for $260 but even then I dont think my 15" wheels will fit over the calipers if I remember reading correctly on pirate a long time ago.

so $260 plus whatever 35 spline axle shafts cost IF my 15" wheels fit. Even still i'd like to keep it mostly stock so I can walk into NAPA and order rotors or calipers.

or $200 for a full floater 35 spline 10.25" rearend which matches the exact 69" WMS of my Dana 60 whereas a full width 9 I think may be slightly more narrow.

also, the Sterling I think would come with disc brakes while the 9" would require a kit of some sort.

wonder if the sterling can be shaved?

Dan,

Sterling is a great choice with the aftermarket support growing. Like you said, 35 spline stock. Get rid of the drums with a disc swap and you are set. Highly recommend welding a bead at the housing/axle tube junction as this is a known failure point since they tubes are pressed in then pinned. good reinforcement bead and you are good to go.

Keep the 8-lug. Cheaper in the end. Slap a set of cheap 17" H2 aluminum rims (like in the pic) and get the 5" backspace to tuck it in some until fancy beadlocks.
 

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Bronco Brian

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Feb 10, 2006
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well a Sterling axle can be had for 1-200 bucks and already has 35 spline axle shafts and I would be able to find a full floater.?

Good Score
This is true but take your time and you could find one for FREE. I have a friend that gets them all the time for that price (free) Also they are a big and cost $$ to build. Look for a Dana 70 U 35 spline axles and a smooth bottom can be had for the same price and cheeper to build. I picked one up for free last week ( Hole truck) traded it for a ZF. I had a Dana 60 like yours the bad thing about the newer short side ones is the diff. sit's right under the frame. You could cut the long side down and that will move it over. I ended cutting mine down and will be 80" out side of tires with 3.5" of back spaceing.
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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Keep the 8-lug. Cheaper in the end. Slap a set of cheap 17" H2 aluminum rims (like in the pic) and get the 5" backspace to tuck it in some until fancy beadlocks.

Those are nice looking wheels but are they 8x6.5? or 8x165mm?

they have 5" backspace? thats definitely a plus.

There are a few of them on craigslist right now for $4-500 a set. How much did you pay?

DiscountTire shows stock 16" steelies for $60 which would also work and I think you can get whatever backspacing you want if you can wait for a custom order.
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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Did you try complete offroad? they have tons of stuff But I never looked for full width 9. Crap didn't think about the rims, well I know you can grind the piss out of those caipers and brackets but 17 inch rims would be much better.

yeah i tried complete, poly and a couple other places... it's like 35 spline axles dont exist for the 9"

I guess Dana 70 would also be a good choice for the rear since it sounds like it can be shaved. I haven't heard anything about the Sterlin being able to be shaved.
 

daves bronco

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Bonney lake WA
nice pick up it looks better then I thought it would. I called on the same one but I didn't have the time to go get it, and got a little scared of it when he said it was trusseted, looks like I should have gone and it. intersted to see what you come up with in the front.
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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Did you try Moser Engineering for the 35 spline axles ? They are in Indiana

couldn't find anything from Moser. Finally found some on broncograveyard of all places.

even still they are 5x5.5 and semi-float. Ever since Bronko69er showed me an axle shaft that had snapped on him while driving, I wanted full float axles.

Probably just gonna get a Sterling. 1.5" thick 35 spline, full float and most importantly, the WMS is the same as my Dana 60 (69.5") while the other options (14 bolt, 60, 70) would be wider or more narrow. Also, the Sterling (and 14 bolt) have carrier bearing adjusters so no shims needed for gear setup which is nice.

it's between the 14bolt and the Sterling. Sterling has WMS width going for it while the 14 bolt has "shavability"
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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Just posting some info here for my own reference regarding the Sterling rear axle. Having a hard time deciding between Sterling and 14 bolt. From what I've read, it sounds like the Sterling actually has better clearance than a 14 bolt. Shaved 14 bolt is about equal to stock Sterling.

Sterling has known issues with pinion issues well documented here:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/drivetrain/129_0506_ford_1025_1050_inch_axle_tips/index.html

so I think i'll be looking for a 93+ Sterling although a new R&P set should have a pinion with the longer splines so maybe it doesn't really matter. Not seeing a huge advantage to the 14 bolt at this point. I can get 5.38s and an ARB for the Sterling.

problems can be solved with larger yoke, pinion with longer splines and an ARB w/ 4 spider gears should solve the other problem caused by only having 2 spider gears.

Disc Brake Upgrade for Sterling:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/638989-rear-disc-brakes-are-here.html
 

70EB

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Those are nice looking wheels but are they 8x6.5? or 8x165mm?

they have 5" backspace? thats definitely a plus.

There are a few of them on craigslist right now for $4-500 a set. How much did you pay?

DiscountTire shows stock 16" steelies for $60 which would also work and I think you can get whatever backspacing you want if you can wait for a custom order.

Not my wheels or tires but put the pic in as an example. H2 wheels are stock 8x6.5
 

carter2772

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Going to be watching this thread... I would like to come down and see the progress as when you get things close. Let me know to, if you need a hand.
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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Going to be watching this thread... I would like to come down and see the progress as when you get things close. Let me know to, if you need a hand.

hey thanks for the offer, I would love to come up to meet you and take a look at your rig sometime. It's done, right? I mean its running and rolling?

I grew up in Mill Creek so I'm up there every once and a while to visit the parents.

You went with JD stuff front and rear, right? Extended arms up front and their 4-link in the back? I'd love to see how the radius arms flex. That would be a lot easier than a 3 or 4 link.

You didn't narrow the axle, right? I'm really unsure about the full width thing for something I drive around town and with all the narrow trails around here. Had any issues yet?
 

carter2772

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hey thanks for the offer, I would love to come up to meet you and take a look at your rig sometime. It's done, right? I mean its running and rolling?

I grew up in Mill Creek so I'm up there every once and a while to visit the parents.

You went with JD stuff front and rear, right? Extended arms up front and their 4-link in the back? I'd love to see how the radius arms flex. That would be a lot easier than a 3 or 4 link.

You didn't narrow the axle, right? I'm really unsure about the full width thing for something I drive around town and with all the narrow trails around here. Had any issues yet?

No, the build is not done... Damn economy has taken my play funds and made them disappear. Yes, I got a duff 5.5 sl moster kit for the front (long arms) with the Cage d 60 axle brackets (weld on style). And I bought their 4 link rear kit for a 9" but have modified it to fit my sterling 10.25. I was going to use a 9" at first but changed my mind. They make one now for the d60 and 10.25, i think. Right now I am getting ready to wire the motor up.

I did not narrow the axles do to what i have read and what people have said, and mainly because this is more of a trail rig. My axles came out of a 93 Ford Centurion. Jesse (bronco69er) runs FW on his DD and as far as I know he loves it. There are a few more local guys that do run fw too.

I would like to see some type of front end built with heims or some type of similar joint that does not limit flex. I recently replaced springs and bushings in my other eb. It had a Superlift 5.5 sl on it from 10+ years ago, and sucked.. I purchased WH rockcrawler springs and all new rubber bushings for the suspension (rear too) , except poly c cap bushings. I made a ramp at home, similar to rti, to see before and after of flex. Prior to the swap, I could raise my front tire 22 1/2" off the ground before lifting a tire. After the new front springs and rubber degred radius arm bushings, I could now lift that tire 29" off the ground without lifting a tire. My ride height stayed the same too.

BUT, in the process of swaping the new parts in, I had everything disconnected from the front axle except the steering link, panhard bar, and radius arms (new rubber bushings installed). So no shocks, no springs, basicly nothing to make the axle move or not move except the radius arms and c cap / bushings. Well I had the Eb on stands, and the axle about 8" in the air with the raduis arms bolted up, the radius arms are now level with the ground, for easy install of the new bushings, but with only 1 jack under the drivers side c cap. THE AXLE WAS ALMOST LEVEL ACROSS THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK... So I go stand on the passenger side spring perch and it only drops 4" or so. I weigh 250 bs, not a small guy... Again this is with the radius arms level, or in line with the frame front to back, so there is no bind on the raduis arm bushings. It is just after installing the bushings, and you have to have almost no bind to get the threaded end through the new bushings.

So long of the short, these C bushings / caps do limit flex a bunch! And now I am wondering about these Cage brackets I have on the other one.

Sorry for the long ramble, but i know you have argued this point a bunch, and now I have been brought to the light. It couldn''t be that hard to build some type of link system that has a heim joint that will let that axle twist... But I wonder about streetability on that though.

here is a pic of the front just sitting there with a jack under the drivers side, and no springs or shocks holding the other up, its like maigc.. (black magic..)

P3240255.jpg


P3240256.jpg
 
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DanWheeler

DanWheeler

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haha, oh wow, yes - black poly c-bushing magic for sure.

well, it was a brilliant design for street use at least.

Did you see that post from the guy that just finished a 4 link in the front?

I was crawling around under there a few days ago thinking that it wouldn't be that difficult to put in a 4 link... possibly even easier than a 3-link since my problem with the 3-link is with the upper link conflicting with the exhaust on the passenger side or the driveshaft on the driver's side.

Glad to hear someone else here is using a Sterling in the rear. I'm hoping it will turn out well. Any advice?

With regards to the full width issue - My only concern is that the Dana 60 from the Fords are 69" WMS while I think the Dana 44 full width are more like 65". Not a huge difference but comes out to 2" on both sides. Nothing a little backspacing can't fix.

thanks for the pics and info. I'm gonna see if this guy that just 4-linked can get some more pics and info.
 
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