View Full Version : bulletproof steering


57baja
05/06/10, 08:57 PM
I just installed this. I have'nt driven it yet but I hope it fixes some of my steering issues.Anyone have any input on similar set ups? I upgraded to the rock proof tie rod and stage II heims. A little expensive but it looks like a good product;D

mavereq
05/06/10, 09:00 PM
it looks like you need to raise your lower trackbar bracket a tad. i'm interested to hear how you like the steering as i'm considering using it as well.

TBS-POPS
05/06/10, 09:41 PM
needs to get rid of the drop pitman arm. put a stock flat pitman arm on and the geometry will be closer. I have the same type steering home built though for about $150. 1 1/2" x .250 DOM and Ruffstuff Heims.Works great!

73stallion
05/06/10, 09:53 PM
needs to get rid of the drop pitman arm. put a stock flat pitman arm on and the geometry will be closer. I have the same type steering home built though for about $150. 1 1/2" x .250 DOM and Ruffstuff Heims.Works great!

or put it on TOP of the drop pitman arm, it'll actually be about 3/8" higher than under a stock pitman.

av bronco
05/06/10, 09:56 PM
I have the same setup, with the rockproof tierod. Very tuff, I bent the tierod but anything would have bent under the circumstances. With 10 by 15inch rims you cant run tierods over, the hems hit the rims.

DirtDonk
05/07/10, 12:40 AM
Although your angles aren't identical, I'd just run it as is and see how it works. With the now much longer draglink, your lengths and pivot points aren't identical either, so it might not be bad at all.
I agree matching the angles as closely as you can is important, but anytime you're changing the whole geometry anyway, you gotta experiment to get everything dialed. Keeping the angles as shallow as possible is important as well.

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

Do you have power steering?

Paul

gddyap
05/07/10, 10:07 AM
Make sure that passenger side bolt is really tight. With it set up as TRO, that's a lot of stress on that bolt. Keeping it really tight will reduce the bending and shear loads. I don't remember what 3/4 fine bolts are supposed to be torqued to.

sprdv1
05/07/10, 07:16 PM
Great product.. Looks good ;)

57baja
05/08/10, 12:45 AM
Although your angles aren't identical, I'd just run it as is and see how it works. With the now much longer draglink, your lengths and pivot points aren't identical either, so it might not be bad at all.
I agree matching the angles as closely as you can is important, but anytime you're changing the whole geometry anyway, you gotta experiment to get everything dialed. Keeping the angles as shallow as possible is important as well.

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

Do you have power steering?

Paul

Yeah it's power steering. I know the angles are not perfect but that stuff came with the lift. Some people say get rid of the track bar drop bracket and get one of the Wildhorses part that raises the track bar at the frame with 3 mounting holes. Hopefully I'll get it out of the garage this weekend and test it out. Before I put on the new steering it would dart all over the road when you hit a rough spot.Going straight was ok but in the corners it's a handfull. Before the 5.5 lift I had an old rancho 3.5 lift but no steering problems.My alignment was good after the lift, same tires just a little higher and softer coils. I don't care about the swaying from soft coils just a little scary when I can hardly keep it in my own lane I'll post my results ;D Oh after installing everything and double checking bolts the steering box bolts were a little loose that was probably a huge factor I felt pretty stupid when we spotted that!

RustyShackelfor
05/08/10, 01:22 AM
you can really see it in that pic you posted, how your springs come in at the bottom. Do you have any idea how much they come in there? I am trying to justify a FW axle without moving anything.

thumping
05/08/10, 06:06 AM
Just curious, any particular reason you choose Bullet Proof over Stone Crusher or BC’s?

Anthony

Buldozer
05/08/10, 06:09 AM
I have been running it for two years and running it through some hard stuff and it has preformed great. Make sure you drill the bolts and install cotter pins for safety though.;)

Greg_B
05/08/10, 09:23 PM
Back about 1998 or 99 When I was doing a lift and trying to get rid of the inverted "Y" linkage I dont believe anyone had a setup like the bullet proof.

Everyone said the best geometery was when the tie rod and drag link were at the same angle.

SO...

After a little research this is what I did... swapped out my 76 knuckles for F150 knuckles... easy and cheap... Purchased brand new F150 linkage... all over it for less than $150.00. Since it was too long I cut both the drag link and tie rod (Chuck at BC Broncos gave me the correct measurments) and threaded them to accept the adjustment sleeve. I reamed the F150 knuckles from the top and flipped the linkage on top. I had purchased and installed a drop pitman arm and drop bracket but after I got to looking at it I didnt need them. The alignment of the linkage was perfect for a 4" lift. The steering is great and it is adjustable in all directions. Replacements are cheap...

I tried to take a photo but it looks crappy... notice in the photo the angles are so close you cannot see the rod in the back.

Greg

Rox Crusher
05/08/10, 10:33 PM
Back about 1998 or 99 When I was doing a lift and trying to get rid of the inverted "Y" linkage I dont believe anyone had a setup like the bullet proof.

Everyone said the best geometery was when the tie rod and drag link were at the same angle.

SO...

After a little research this is what I did... swapped out my 76 knuckles for F150 knuckles... easy and cheap... Purchased brand new F150 linkage... all over it for less than $150.00. Since it was too long I cut both the drag link and tie rod (Chuck at BC Broncos gave me the correct measurments) and threaded them to accept the adjustment sleeve. I reamed the F150 knuckles from the top and flipped the linkage on top. I had purchased and installed a drop pitman arm and drop bracket but after I got to looking at it I didnt need them. The alignment of the linkage was perfect for a 4" lift. The steering is great and it is adjustable in all directions. Replacements are cheap...

I tried to take a photo but it looks crappy... notice in the photo the angles are so close you cannot see the rod in the back.

Greg

would you do the F150 conversion or use a kit now that they are available ?

57baja
05/08/10, 11:17 PM
Just curious, any particular reason you choose Bullet Proof over Stone Crusher or BC’s?

Anthony

I just read their website and liked all the info on the strength of their tie rod material and they gave a good explanation about the heims. BCB looked ok and I never looked at stonecrusher.I looked at a couple of the chevy tro style kits also. I just wanted something better than stock.8-)

57baja
05/08/10, 11:37 PM
Back about 1998 or 99 When I was doing a lift and trying to get rid of the inverted "Y" linkage I dont believe anyone had a setup like the bullet proof.

Everyone said the best geometery was when the tie rod and drag link were at the same angle.

SO...

After a little research this is what I did... swapped out my 76 knuckles for F150 knuckles... easy and cheap... Purchased brand new F150 linkage... all over it for less than $150.00. Since it was too long I cut both the drag link and tie rod (Chuck at BC Broncos gave me the correct measurments) and threaded them to accept the adjustment sleeve. I reamed the F150 knuckles from the top and flipped the linkage on top. I had purchased and installed a drop pitman arm and drop bracket but after I got to looking at it I didnt need them. The alignment of the linkage was perfect for a 4" lift. The steering is great and it is adjustable in all directions. Replacements are cheap...

I tried to take a photo but it looks crappy... notice in the photo the angles are so close you cannot see the rod in the back.

Greg

Thats funny you say that because I already had f150 knuckles,tie rod ends,and the tie rod was adjustable on both ends. The tie rod just seemed a little lower than stock and with my lift the steering angles were pretty bad.When I was at Wildhorses I asked about doing the tro set up and they said the reamer they sell was for regular d44 bronco style knuckles not f150 size ones. I guess you ream the knuckle and then install a sleeve for the bronco size tie rod.I did'nt understand why it mattered if I was using f150 tie rod ends or the smaller original ones maybe I misunderstood the guy. ?:?

57baja
05/08/10, 11:42 PM
you can really see it in that pic you posted, how your springs come in at the bottom. Do you have any idea how much they come in there? I am trying to justify a FW axle without moving anything.

I don't know I never measured it. I think they bow because of the lift size I guess. I took it apart twice and same results. I guess that's normal or I'm doing something wrong.