- Joined
- Jan 6, 2009
- Messages
- 239
needs to get rid of the drop pitman arm. put a stock flat pitman arm on and the geometry will be closer. I have the same type steering home built though for about $150. 1 1/2" x .250 DOM and Ruffstuff Heims.Works great!
Although your angles aren't identical, I'd just run it as is and see how it works. With the now much longer draglink, your lengths and pivot points aren't identical either, so it might not be bad at all.
I agree matching the angles as closely as you can is important, but anytime you're changing the whole geometry anyway, you gotta experiment to get everything dialed. Keeping the angles as shallow as possible is important as well.
Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
Do you have power steering?
Paul
Back about 1998 or 99 When I was doing a lift and trying to get rid of the inverted "Y" linkage I dont believe anyone had a setup like the bullet proof.
Everyone said the best geometery was when the tie rod and drag link were at the same angle.
SO...
After a little research this is what I did... swapped out my 76 knuckles for F150 knuckles... easy and cheap... Purchased brand new F150 linkage... all over it for less than $150.00. Since it was too long I cut both the drag link and tie rod (Chuck at BC Broncos gave me the correct measurments) and threaded them to accept the adjustment sleeve. I reamed the F150 knuckles from the top and flipped the linkage on top. I had purchased and installed a drop pitman arm and drop bracket but after I got to looking at it I didnt need them. The alignment of the linkage was perfect for a 4" lift. The steering is great and it is adjustable in all directions. Replacements are cheap...
I tried to take a photo but it looks crappy... notice in the photo the angles are so close you cannot see the rod in the back.
Greg
Just curious, any particular reason you choose Bullet Proof over Stone Crusher or BC’s?
Anthony
Back about 1998 or 99 When I was doing a lift and trying to get rid of the inverted "Y" linkage I dont believe anyone had a setup like the bullet proof.
Everyone said the best geometery was when the tie rod and drag link were at the same angle.
SO...
After a little research this is what I did... swapped out my 76 knuckles for F150 knuckles... easy and cheap... Purchased brand new F150 linkage... all over it for less than $150.00. Since it was too long I cut both the drag link and tie rod (Chuck at BC Broncos gave me the correct measurments) and threaded them to accept the adjustment sleeve. I reamed the F150 knuckles from the top and flipped the linkage on top. I had purchased and installed a drop pitman arm and drop bracket but after I got to looking at it I didnt need them. The alignment of the linkage was perfect for a 4" lift. The steering is great and it is adjustable in all directions. Replacements are cheap...
I tried to take a photo but it looks crappy... notice in the photo the angles are so close you cannot see the rod in the back.
Greg
you can really see it in that pic you posted, how your springs come in at the bottom. Do you have any idea how much they come in there? I am trying to justify a FW axle without moving anything.