Tightening up steering....

airbur · Jun 9, 2010

Should there be any play where the pitman arm connects to the drag link? I'm working on tightening up the linkage as there seems to be a lot of play.

Setup:

2.5" Suspension Lift
1" Body Lift w/new mounts
New Ididit tilt column
New WH lower shaft
Rebuilt '76 4 turn power steering box
New Saginaw pump and filter.
'70 Pitman Arm
'76 Dana 44 w/disc (rebuilt)
'76 Y steering linkage.
All new bushings
Drop track bar
New steering dampener
Recent alignment

I've bled the reservoir and also tightened up the adjustment screw on the top of the gear box (only about 1/4 turn). This did seem to make things better but then I had someone turn the wheel while I observed the linkage...everything is tight except for the connection mentioned above.

Thanks!

73stallion · Jun 9, 2010

sounds like you need to replace the drag link then. all you do when you adjust the top bolt on the box is jamb the gears against each other more, it doesn't tighten it.

airbur · Jun 9, 2010

Yea...I'm thinking that too. The reason I tightened up the gear box was because there was definite play in there when I turned the lower shaft by hand.

broncnaz · Jun 9, 2010

Worst case you may also have to replace the pitman arm if its been run loose for a long time ity may be wallowed out.

73stallion · Jun 9, 2010

or install a tapered sleeve.

airbur · Jun 9, 2010

broncnaz said:
Worst case you may also have to replace the pitman arm if its been run loose for a long time ity may be wallowed out.

Drop-Pitman a good idea then?

broncnaz · Jun 9, 2010

I'm sure it would work. Just have to try it and see and hope it doesnt cause bumpsteer issues. Forgot about the tapered sleeve idea. or just get it welded up and retapered.

Viperwolf1 · Jun 9, 2010

airbur said:
Yea...I'm thinking that too. The reason I tightened up the gear box was because there was definite play in there when I turned the lower shaft by hand.

The proper and only reliable way to adjust it is to disconnect draglink and column and use an inch pound torque wrench to measure the mesh load. Turning the stud clockwise actually pushes the sector shaft down and moves the teeth apart (less mesh).

airbur · Jun 10, 2010

Viperwolf1 said:
The proper and only reliable way to adjust it is to disconnect draglink and column and use an inch pound torque wrench to measure the mesh load. Turning the stud clockwise actually pushes the sector shaft down and moves the teeth apart (less mesh).

Ah...good to know. Thanks. If I were to swap out the entire linkage, which aftermarket setup is the best? Thanks.

broncnaz · Jun 10, 2010

Personally I'd stick with a stock type linkage but 3 way adjustable like most venders sell.

DirtDonk · Jun 11, 2010

Hey airbur, is your OEM pitman arm a '76/'77 arm, or an earlier one?

Paul

airbur · Jun 11, 2010

DirtDonk said:
Hey airbur, is your OEM pitman arm a '76/'77 arm, or an earlier one?

Paul

It's a '70 Pitman arm off the original Dana 30 linkage.

DirtDonk · Jun 11, 2010

Thought so. There's your problem.
See if you can find a '76/'77 pitman arm so it fits the upper rod end better.

Your "Y" setup has (I'm pretty sure anyway) a smaller rod end so the pitman arm from the older "T" style has a larger tapered hole.

Someone will verify that I'm sure, but if so, that sounds like a fairly simple fix.

Paul

Viperwolf1 · Jun 11, 2010

Hey airbur,

I have a stock '77 arm, I think. It came off my '77 box. I'll trade you.

airbur · Jun 12, 2010

Viperwolf1 said:
Hey airbur,

I have a stock '77 arm, I think. It came off my '77 box. I'll trade you.

Done! I'm down in Castle Rock but can meet up in Aurora or in-between anytime. Let me know! Thanks.

Viperwolf1 · Jun 12, 2010

I took some measurements on the arm I have. I'm not 100% positive of the year of the arm. The draglink hole is .700" by .600" and the arm width at the hole is .875". Compare that to the arm you have.

airbur · Jun 12, 2010

I'll measure mine shortly and get back to you. Thanks.

airbur · Jun 13, 2010

Viperwolf1 said:
I took some measurements on the arm I have. I'm not 100% positive of the year of the arm. The draglink hole is .700" by .600" and the arm width at the hole is .875". Compare that to the arm you have.

Mine came out around .769 x .647 and .889 thick. Is that enough of a difference?

Viperwolf1 · Jun 13, 2010

airbur said:
Mine came out around .769 x .647 and .889 thick. Is that enough of a difference?

I did some calculations and it looks like the angles are the same (7 degrees) but the size difference in the hole would cause the stud to bottom out about .450" higher in my pitman arm. In other words, if the stud was installed to the same depth in both pitman arms there would still be about .050" of slop between the stud and your pitman socket (compared to fully bottomed in mine).

airbur · Jun 14, 2010

I remeasured it now that I have it off the Bronco and I'm showing .76 x .68 and width of .88. You think it's still worth it?

Tightening up steering....

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