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What are your thoughts?

jimmy18thing

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2008
Messages
128
Ok so I am wondering in order to get a better pinion angle on the front drive shaft, is there any way that I could cut the axle tube itself and turn the pumpkin then reweld and sleeve the axle tube to strengthen? I know that you can cut the wedges and rotate the axle to change it.. But I was wondering if this way is even possible. I have a 4.5" lift on my EB.
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Run backwards? He's not trying to turn it in into a Hi pinion he's just turning to correct pinion angle.
Anyhow you could cut the tube and turn the pumpkin then reweld but thats a lot of work and you weaken the tubes and probably make the axle a tad bit shorter in the process. Your better off grinding the knuckles off then turning to adjust pinion angle and setting the knucles to adjust caster where you want it. Then welding it back up.
A high pinion axle would be a good fix for it as well you could either shorten the long side, stay FW or do A WAH install which you could leave FW or shorten to EB specs.
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,035
Excuse my ignorance, but what's wrong w/ just using 7 degree C bushings?

Most lifted applications need more caster and less pinion angle, that's why you can't just get there with c-bushings sometimes. Rotating the knuckles allows you to get the caster you want with a smaller degree c-bushing (or zero degree bushing or even reverse installed bushings) and still have a workable pinion angle. That said, if you're into cutting and welding stuff, you could just cut and rotate both the knuckles and the c-wedges and put everything where you want it given the bushings you want to run. I would try to run a 0 degree c-bushing if at all possible since there are rubber and urethane options and you can always adjust from there.
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Excuse my ignorance, but what's wrong w/ just using 7 degree C bushings?

When you use 7 degree bushings it throws the pinion andgle out of wack. Usually also causing some driveshaft bind. And as other's have said you may still not get enough caster.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,873
What we generally do is cut and turn the outer C's (at the knuckle) and not the center chunk itself. This lets you run low degree bushings but still gives the caster you need. Rotating the center chunk will help with pinion angle but with 7° bushings you probably still won't have enough caster. Turning the C's is getting a lot more common
 

7elk

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2006
Messages
369
Loc.
Albuquerque
I'm confused. If you get the proper bushings from any of the vendors for a 2 1/2 lift, and don't do anything else, are you screwing up? If so, why do they sell the bushings for the lift you buy?
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,873
The bushing are to fix the caster that changes when you lift it.
Fixing the caster puts the U-joint at a steeper angle.
At some point (typically around the 3½" lift mark) you are at the point that you need more caster in the alignment but you can't get any more correction via offset bushings. at the same time the U-joint angle is getting too steep. At that point you need the cut and weld.

2½" lift should be just fine with bolt on parts.
 
OP
OP
jimmy18thing

jimmy18thing

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2008
Messages
128
Ok...

So what would you guys do if you were in my shoes. I installed a 4.5" with extended arms from wild horses. I believe that the arms already have 2* caster correction in them and then according to my receipt information I received 4* bushings. So can I cut the ends and perhaps flip the c bushings. I would like to avoid cutting off the wedges. The Knuckles dont worry me so much.
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Are you actually having a issue with the front ujoint? most people dont really worry about it much because they dont do high speed wheeling.
 
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