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Fixing Camber Caster - my plan

JohnJohn

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 6, 2005
Messages
2,157
Loc.
Richmond
My 77 drives well after the frame off but it wanders a bit and shakes at 65+.

I cant leave it alone and am on a mission to get it to drive as well as I can.

I just would like some feedback to my plan.

Alignment specs:
Camber left 1.20 right .66 (I had a shim in on the right for this spec but will be replacing it)
Caster Left 1.17 Right 1.49
Toe Left .07 Right .36

I have a cage 3.5" lift with stock arms. I think Cage gave me 4 degree C bushings.

For caster I think I am going to install a set of 7 degree C bushings. This should put me at 4.17 left and 4.49 right. Is this too much? Spec is 2.75 to 4.25.

For camber my plan is to install a 1.125 shim behind both wheels to get it close to 0 camber. I know spec is +1 to +2 but I want 0. The inside 2.5 inches of the tires dont even touch the ground.

Toe will be fixed once I am done with Camber and Caster.

My longer tem plan is to replace the inverted y and get new tires.
 

Heus33

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
7,407
I have 7* C bushings on my 2.5" lift and it rides great - others here have put in 7* bushings on their lower lift rides and I haven't read one compliant. I also don't see any need to change the steering (at least in my experiance).

What tires are you running?
 

DonsBolt

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 5, 2005
Messages
5,249
Loc.
Chestnut Hill, Mass
Caster of 4.17 to 4.49 is fine

You don't really want 0 degrees of camber you want about 0.5 to 1.0

For toe you want around 0.10 to 0.20

I had Tod turn my inner knuckles 8 degrees , along with 2 degree bushings.

I just put new tires on mine, and as part of the price they gave me a free allignments
They didn't change anything and my specs were
castor is 5.6 degrees
camber 0.7 degrees
toe 0.17 right and left

Mine drives real straight, tires wear is excellent, and handles great. I also run a cage 3.5 lift with stock arms.
My inverted Y setup is long gone, I run double adjustable tie rod ends, over the knuckles, adjustable drag link, adjustable track bar, and a track bar riser.
 
OP
OP
JohnJohn

JohnJohn

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 6, 2005
Messages
2,157
Loc.
Richmond
Thanks guys. I have 33" Pro Comp all terrains. They are on loan to me. The guy I got them from said the PO gave them to him because they shook at 65MPH.
This is why I need to ditch them.

Thanks for the Camber sugestion. I may put 1 degree shims in and try them first.
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
I'd agree if you end up with 4 degrees caster your doing good the more the better. I'd also shoot for about 1/2 degree of camber with one side already being about there I'd probably leave it and just get the otherside there. You might be better off with the top ball joint caster/camber adjusters you can dial it right in easier than shiming the spindle.
 

the-glove

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2007
Messages
135
Loc.
Los Angeles
Where are you going to get the shims from? I need them too but the ones I've seen have been really expensive. Seems expensive for just trying them out.
 
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OP
JohnJohn

JohnJohn

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 6, 2005
Messages
2,157
Loc.
Richmond
NAPA is shwoing the shims for $21 each. Just select your Bronco then search for camber or caster.

I bought a couple Camber/Caster ball joint sleve adjusters for $21 each but I think I am going to go with the C bushings and hub shims.

I can only get 1.5 degrees of caster (max) out of the ball joint ajusters. When you get 1.5 of caster you get 0 change in camber or when you get 1.5 degrees of camber you get 0 in caster.
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Choice is yours just takes a lot less tear down to use the ball joint adjusters(tire and upper ball joint nut) and you can get up to both 1.5 degree caster and camber out of the adjusters at the same time if needed. Or just caster or camber only which I figured since you were going with c bushings you only needed camber any how. I rather like the adjusters as you can always readjust if needed instead of being stuck with the shim you have then possibly needing another one because the first one was wrong.
 

bronko69er

EB Addict
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
4,599
Loc.
Renton, WA
I've tried the napa route before for shims but they say they cant get them. Let us know if you end up finding them and from where.
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
I've tried the napa route before for shims but they say they cant get them. Let us know if you end up finding them and from where.

I'd did the same thing they couldnt get them and my parts guy is very good. Some stores may have them but mine didnt and they couldnt find any other source for them at the time. Maybe if they are ordered on line you could get them but still I like the ball joint adjusters better add caster and camber as needed. best of both worlds
 

bronko69er

EB Addict
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
4,599
Loc.
Renton, WA
My question was a nice way of suggesting the OP to call and confirm that he could get them before making the assumption based on the website (since I had been through the same process before). I agree that the ball joint adjusters are the way to go.
 
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