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Question on C4 parts for rebuild

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,805
Hi, looking over this post on C4 builds:

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119632

I note that one item among many is a 26074TA 1* METAL CLAD SEAL FOR THE ADAPTER HOUSING (DOUBLE LIP), Which i have been unable to locate and I'm asking what other source has been used and is this the seal that goes into the adapter housing assembly or tail shaft just prior to the D20? Since it notes it is a critical part, I already built my D20 up using the parts supplied by WH, just wondering if I need to swap out this seal?

Next part is the green banded modulator, mine comes with yellow, the Hughes rebuild kit comes with yellow, just what does a green banded one give me over a yellow?

Next Q, my tranny has been rebuilt once already and has a valve body kit, do I order another truck/towing kit to ensure all the parts are right?

So far I have needed a new input shaft, mine had groves the thickness of a fingernail, everything else looks good except one drum input surface, it's pitted and is being machined to smooth for $30 at Hughes in Phx.

Parts so far and it's not cheap: Towing TC $300, master rebuild kit $200, Hardened input shaft $200.

So all in all, this should be better than new for less than a grand.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,322
The seal is the standard double lip adapter seal. If your seal is relatively new it's fine. The green stripe modulator will have a slightly different calibration than the yellow. I'd try the one you have first. I wouldn't add another shift kit if you already have one. Some mods to the valve body and separater plate can't be undone.

Got any pics of the drum surface that's being machined? Got to be careful about that stuff because it can affect the endplay.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,805
P1000447.jpg


note pitting and nice groove. I forget which assembly this is... I think forward clutch hub.

Oh, and before i tore it down it shifted like a sledge hammer in every gear, a little to firm for me. Do I need to find an unmolested C4 valve body and start over?

Last point tonight, whats everybody using for the clutch spring tool? I figure I could get a large enough sized PVC pipe, cut a groove in it to fit the snap ring removal, and install the whole thing in a press and compress to release the snap ring.
 
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