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DIY Power Windows

justinkwitt

Newbie
Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
42
Hey Guys, I know there's probably already a thread in here about this, but I just completed my own power window project for about $100, and it turned out pretty nice so I thought I'd share.

Here what I needed:

1. 2 power window motors, 86-95 taurus/sable, front. (I used new, cardone #s 82-306, 82-307 because we own a parts distribution center, but you can find used for cheap) I saw some on ebay for $20 used.

2. 6 Rolls of Wire (i used 14 gauge, you need red, black, and 4 other colors), different colors so when I run them to the switch i don't get confused. Only need 10 feet of each, except 2 for red and black, which you only need a couple feet of.

3. 1/4" strip steel. Used one 6"x6" piece (cost me 5 dollars at welding shop)

4. 6 rivets (used ones I already had)

5. 1/4-20 bolts. I think I used 1-1/4" long.

6. Power Window Switch. I used a GM one: dorman part # 901-017. You can find them easily at a junk yard for $5 dollars, but our cost was only $6 so I grabbed a new one.

7. GM Power Window Switch Terminal Connector. They come in 5 packs for about $4. If you get your switch from a junk yard, just grab the pigtail, it would be way easier and cleaner.

8. Bullet connectors, 1 ring terminal, and one female spade connector (for the fuse box)

9. Rubber Grommet Assortment pack (optional). I used ones I had lying around in my shop.

10. Wire Loom (optional). I used some I had lying around in my shop.

Ok Heres the process I used:

First, take out the window regulators. Take a rotary cutter and grind the rivets off holding the old manual gear. Take that gear out. Now, you need that part of the regulator to be flat. So take the rotary cutter and cut it off, and use a disc grinder till it is flat.

Take your 1/4" steel and cut 2 pieces in the shape shown to be used as mounting brackets.

5367Mounting-Bracket-001.jpg


Take your window motor and a bracket and put it on the regulator. See if there are any clearance issues. Grind away on regulator or bracket any issues.

Next step is to clamp the bracket on the regulator. I brazed them together on the door side, so that they would stay in place while drilling.

Drill the bracket/regulator in 3 spots for the rivets. Make sure they wont interfere with the motor mounting. I put the rivets though the bracket side, so I drilled a slight hole to countersink them. After drilling, crimp the rivets.

After this, line the motor up to mount on the bracket. Make sure the teeth meet inside the groves of the regulator. You can adjust the reguator by moving the arm to get it to match up.

Clamp the motor to the bracket. Start to drill 3 holes in the bracket going through the window motor mounting holes. Take the motor off and finish using a 13/64" drill bit. After drilling, tap the holes with a 1/4-20 tap. Be careful if you brazed the bracket because this hardens the steel and could brake your tap.

Take the 1/4 bolts and bolt the motor up.

Before I put it in the Bronco, I cut the ends off of the wires and put bullet connectors on instead of the stock connector.

I'm not going to type instructions for drilling but I will post a link to the BC Bronco's sheet that they include on their website for power windows. It will tell you where to drill.

See page 3 for where to drill: http://www.bcbroncos.com/power%20locks%20with%20water%20mark.pdf

Here you can find BC Bronco's instructions for installing their power window kit. Use it to wire (basically you have to have a "fish" wire to help pull the wires through):http://www.bcbroncos.com/power_window%20with%20water%20mark.pdf

Be careful when drilling. Drill almost straight up and use a pilot hole. If your angle isn't enough, it will go through the panel and you won't be able to run the wires. I stepped up the bits until I got to 1/2". Becareful when pulling the wires through, there is sharp metal and will cut the plastic on the outside. You don't want exposed metal on your wires.

I ran the wires to the switch, which I put in my ash try, because I don't smoke. Later on it will go in the center console that I am building. You need to run one wire to the accessory terminal on the fuse box and one to a ground inside the dash to operate the switch.

I didn't bother covering the holes where the window crank was (it looks kinda cool), because I'm planning on covering my door panels. If you dont want the hole though, you can go to grainger.com and buy 7/8" plugs.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Knockout-Plug-1EMR2?Pid=search

After that its pretty much it. You have fully operational power windows that go all the way up and all the way down! If you have any suggestions, please feel free to add!

I believe my total cost was about $115. Would have been lots cheaper if I pulled from junk yards, but I used what was a little more available to me.

Here are some pictures of it completed:

DSCN0107.jpg


DSCN0106.jpg


DSCN0105.jpg


DSCN0104.jpg


DSCN0103.jpg
 
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66fora69er

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2006
Messages
479
You wouldnt happen to like the color yellow would you? ;D

Nice write up Thanks
 
OP
OP
J

justinkwitt

Newbie
Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
42
No I dont, but I will take the door apart this weekend and then post some pictures.
 

chuck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 14, 2001
Messages
6,474
Loc.
Ingram, Texas
It looked like you were doing fine thinking your own thoughts until you referred people to my site where I sell power windows, now it seems not so much.
 

Pedestrian

Bronco Missionary
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
2,299
Nicely done.
What size is your GPz? I've owned several and would really like to find another 1100
 
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J

justinkwitt

Newbie
Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
42
Sorry Chuck, if you want me to remove the link to your site, I will. Quite frankly, the instructions that you have are the best places to drill, plus running the "fishing" wire is the normal way of running wires in tight places, so I didn't think of the need to rewrite that stuff. Plus I used those holes because I bought your door lock kit :p

the gpz is a 83 750. talk about problems... its one after the other with that bike.
 

chuck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 14, 2001
Messages
6,474
Loc.
Ingram, Texas
To elaborate, I was impressed that you went to all the trouble to figure this out instead of just copying my stuff. It's refreashing but then you kind of stumbled IMO by sending people to my instructions instead finishing. You are a rare person, don't short yourself was what I ment to say. As far as using my instructions it's fine with me as long as you don't use them to make money as others have.
 
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justinkwitt

Newbie
Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
42
Well thank you Chuck. When I was wiring, I actually took off the fender and door to see if there was perhaps another way to do it, but because of the close spaces, your location for drilling is by far the most logical (as you probably already know). So I figured why reinvent the wheel...

Also, I'm not trying to make money (rather just save some), and thought that this would be a cool project for others who might want to try it.

Thank you for the compliment. I'll be contacting you guys soon, because there are some parts that I need to order :p
 

taipeichris

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 11, 2006
Messages
1,752
Great write up!
Please post some photos of the motors attached to the regulators.
Thanks!
Chris
 
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J

justinkwitt

Newbie
Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
42
pictures of regulator

so guys... I tore the door apart and took the regulator out so that I could take pictures and here they are. I also included one of it mounted in the door with the door panel off, I did the passenger side because the drivers armrest sucks and likes to eat my sockets. Here are the pictures:

I put these pictures as thumbnails so that it wouldn't take up as much bandwidth. To get the full picture just click on them.

Motor Side:



Top View:



Regulator Side



Angled View: (If you look carefully you will see where I had to grind a little on the bracket after I made it so that it would clear edge of the window motor)







Regulator side again (You can clearly see where I brazed the bracket before drilling for the rivets, and where I put the rivets.



Mounted on the door:



Ohhhh i forgot something in the instructions that I typed. I removed the spring before I did any work to the regulator. I was going to put it back on afterwords but the torque on these motors are such that the spring isn't really needed.
 

Ranchtruck

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
766
Great work on the power windows!

as for putting pictures in, look at the fonts/page setup bar at the top of the "message" box when you post. Over towards the right of the bar there's a picture of 2 mountains and a sun with a yellow backround. That's the "insert image" button. It will tell you to link a picture you have hosted elsewhere and insert it into your post. So either upload the image to your gallery here, then link the url address, or upload them to a photobucket acount or suchlike and do the same thing.
 

admin

Administrator
Just your friendly, neighborhood webmaster...
Joined
Jan 1, 2001
Messages
38,749
Loc.
Phoenix, AZ
Nice write up Justin. See my reply to your PM.
 

Pa PITT

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 15, 2005
Messages
11,246
Loc.
Stephenville TEXAS
... Great Pictures of the the regulators .. I Want to add an electric motor to my pass side.
.. WHAT year motor did you use.
... I wish there were more pictures of cutting & putting together the assembly.
... I'm editing my so I can come back to this. as usual I got of on something else .
 
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