Edelbrock Performer Plus Cam and Performer RMP Intake?

Couple questions for you engine Guru's...

Currently have (from what I understand) a fairly stock 351W, that was supposedly recently re-built.

I am in the middle of doing the Explorer Serp conversion and am thinking that since I am more then halfway there it would be easy to replace the stock cam and Intake Manifold while I am at it.

With that said, looking for something that will 'wake' up the motor a bit, but nothing extreme and as plug and play as possible. At this time I do not want to touch the lifters, rods or heads if at all possible.

Looking at the following Edelbrock products;
2182 Performer Plus Camshaft
7181 Performer RPM Intake

Anyone have experience with these? Plug and Play as mentioned above, and any issues with running their Plus cam, but a RPM intake?
Reason choosing the Plus Camshaft is I believe that is the easiest to install without changing everything else?

Thanks in advance for the suggestions/advice.

I have that cam & with a 3781 Performer manifold and like it very much, best all around low-end torque & daily driver. It is a good matched set, 0 - 5500 rpms

I, myself would not use a RPM Manifold, the cam works at off-idel to 5500 while the RPM manifold works 1500 - 6500

I use a RPM manifold on my 302 no loss of lowend. Read a article once where they tested the performer and RPM manifolds and the RPM actually made more lowend torque then the performer. One draw back of the RPM is that its 1in taller than the peformer add on to that that the 351W is 1in taller than a 302 and clearnace can be a issue unless you have a body lift or the hood is cut or not stock.
The cam should be fine many of us use that cam or one with similar specs.

That combo should be very nice. I ran nearly the exact same thing for years and know others who have ran that cam as well. Good idle quality, good all around power. That exact same grind cam is sold by many different companies. It even has a Ford Motorsports part number.

The intake is a touch large, but I would not worry any at all. Be prepared that the hood will not close unless you have a scoop or body lift.

The intake and cam would be my choice for a 351 with stock heads, no larger. When running you have a slight hint that there is a cam in it at idle. It does drive nice. I could lug the engine comfortably under 1000 RPM and turn 6000 RPM as needed (I had done work to the rest of the engine as well). A nice little step above stock wake up while still maintaining drivability.

Okay, thanks folks.... I appreciate the feedback, and it appears it will be what I'm looking for.

No need to change anything else right?
Timing Gears, lifters, etc....
Plugnplay is what I'm looking for.

Already have a 2" BL and highlander hood, so I have the room.

Thanks again.

New lifters are a must(old lifters and new cam will garrentee failure) and if the timing chain has more than 50,000 miles on it I would change it as well cheap insurance

Well the engine after rebuild has less then 1500 miles on it. So everything should be new or newer... I'll check wear on those items to double check.

SDlivin said:

Well the engine after rebuild has less then 1500 miles on it. So everything should be new or newer... I'll check wear on those items to double check.

Click to expand...

My stroked 351W had somewhere around 1500 miles on it when I decided to change the cam. I did not swap out the lifters because they only had about 1500 miles on them. I wiped 3 lobes off the cam during the initial break in.

New lifters are not just a good idea, they are mandatory.

X2 what Recoiljunky said.
You have to replace the lifters. It makes no difference how little you have run them. Once the engine is started that is it. Roller lifters different story but flat tappet, start it and that is it.

Understood, new lifters it is.

I'm assuming your motor is a flat tappet or hydraulic flat tappet. If so make sure you run an oil with ZDDP additive for the cam break-in. Shell Rotella T is one of the best ones. Afterward you can switch to synthetic or whatever. I've also read that Mobil 1 lists the ZDDP content of their oils as well.

Compcams and I believe Cranecams uses a hardening process on the lobes that lessens the chances of wiping a lobe as well, not sure about edelbrock... something to consider.

SDlivin said:

Understood, new lifters it is.

Click to expand...

Yes SD you only have 20 min for the cam to either burnish themselves into the new cam lobe or wipe it out. Never reuse old lifters. Even if they have 100 miles on them.

Mark them to match each lifter to each lobe. Then you can sell it to someone here for a stock cam, as long as they come out of the same hole you are good to go.

I use Valvoline
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41KTS29TX9L.jpg

X2 on the Valvoline. It was the recommended oil for my Isky cam. Rotella T used to be great, but has been reformulated with lower zinc. Brad Penn Racing oil is another good choice.

Okay, thanks for the advice on the engine break in oil.

Another question? when resetting Rocker Arm Lash, can I accomplish this the same way I do my SB Chevy? Basically, while the engine is running torque until they stop clacking, then add a 1/4 turn? Or is there some other voodoo with SB Fords?

Thanks.

1/4 turn past hand tight if i remember correctly... I'm probably wrong though, happens all the time

EDIT: Okay I was wrong, or at least for my rocker install. Here's a portion of my instructions...

"8. By installing the crankshaft dampener bolt back into the snout of the crankshaft, turn the engine over by hand in the direction of its running rotation until the exhaust pushrod begins to move upward to open the valve. This ensures that the lifter is on the base circle, and the intake valve isready to be adjusted.

Hydraulic Lifter Cams: Tighten the adjusting nut until all the slack is taken out of the rocker arm and pushrod. By lightly turning the pushrod with your fingers as you tighten the adjusting nut, you will discover or feel a point at which there will be slight resistance. At this point, you have taken all the excess slack out of the pushrod. You are now at what we refer to as zero lash. Turn the adjusting one-half turn more. This will give you the ideal pre-load of the rocker arm, pushrod, and lifter. Following this procedure, carefully adjust all intake valves.

9. Hydraulic Lifter Cams: To adjust exhaust valves, turn the engine over until the intake pushrod moves all the way up. Rotate past maximum lift, approximately one-half to two-thirds of the way back down. The lifter is now on the base circle and the exhaust valve can be adjusted. Rotate the exhaust pushrod with your fingers and begin to tighten the exhaust adjusting nut. When you feel the resistance on the pushrod, you are at zero lash. Tighten the adjusting nut one-half turn more. Go through the exhaust valves and repeat the procedure carefully. Now all of the valves are adjusted with the proper pre-load."

Hope that helps

for valve adjustment it depends on wether or not your heads are setup to be adjustable or not. I dont believe any stock 351W came with adjustable rockers. In fact after 68 I dont think any of the windsor engines had adjustable rockers. You will either have a positive stop stud type(early heads 76 down) or the bolt down rocker type(late heads 77 up). depending on the year of the heads.