T-case shifter / function

I am almost done my 3 spd to C4 conversion (another thread) but I still am not confident in the transfer case shifter and t-case function. The shifter I have has been cut, welded and bent and I do not believe it every worked. I have screwed with it also and it is really clunky. I think I am going with a factory type replacement. Who do you recommend? I want to avoid a twin stick because I am never going off road, just in the snow, and my wife needs be able to use it.

Part II. My t-case is a '76 with the two rods with parts welded on that look like the letter F (one of them is a backward F) with a hole/slot joining them. Before I put the t-case back in I tried to check it for each of the settings (4L,N,2H,4H). I assumed, possibly incorrectly that both rods needed to move in and out together. If I move them in and out together I can 4L,N and 4H but never just 2H. The only way I could 2H was to have one of the rods in one more click than the one next to it. Is this normal? Without a working shifter to at least guide me I am lost.

It is possible someone has been in the t-case bsed on the blue silicone oozing around the inpection cover but it looks stock.

You have a J-shift tcase. Sounds like it shifts correctly. The stock J shifters suck. I recommend an aftermarket J shifter (really recommend a twinstick).

Those photos are super thank you! I have my linkage in the same position as the 4th photo which sounds right - rear high front neutral. How could the factory shifter ever get in that position????

I think my A/T floor shifter sucked up the room in the tunnel to give me a good shot at the arm on the trans. I do not have a lot of free space in that area now!

pcf_mark said:

Those photos are super thank you! I have my linkage in the same position as the 4th photo which sounds right - rear high front neutral. How could the factory shifter ever get in that position????

I think my A/T floor shifter sucked up the room in the tunnel to give me a good shot at the arm on the trans. I do not have a lot of free space in that area now!

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The factory shifter can move side to side to get the rails in that position. Unfortunately that side to side movement is also it's curse. It is vague and hard to tell what position it's in.

Twinstick Twinstick Twinstick

I would recommend a twin stick. They sell knobs for them that will designate front and rear differentials and also tell you where high, neutral, and low is.

Now that I understand the side to side part I see the twin stick need. It is also cheaper as an added bonus. I mounted my lokar floor shifter on a new piece of floor to the left of the tunnel. Does the twin stick use the factory hole plus/minus?

pcf_mark said:

Does the twin stick use the factory hole plus/minus?

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Yes, mostly. I had to do a little trimming but it depends on body lift and body alignment.