Stock Alternator AND Fuel Pump Question Help~~

Hey Guys

SO i have been driving my 69 stock all around lately.. runs very well... two issues I need help with...

1) I installed a USA Industries rebuilt Alternator (1G). I checked over the attachements, and it is wired correctly (red is BAT, black has nothing for STA, Field is orange, and then skip one, ground at the next... there was actually two grounds there, I just used the red and black). anyway, i had a battery that had been drained before (some of you answered some questions for me), i charged it fully on my trickle to 12.04 volts (wasn't sure you could get over 12?)... started right up, put my multimeter on.... "11.6" volts...steady reading. SO, im not getting anything to the battery...

my question is, could I have gotten a dud from USA industries? But I am thinking there might be a hook up wrong somewhere else? I have been looking at all the diagrams, but it is hard for me to really know if there is something wired incorectly, as a novice.... trying to see where junctions are, splicing to headlights, etc etc. I also checked the volt reg.. that appears well too... hot key, field, and alternator. Any ideas on where I can begin... is it something stupid im overlooking or something more?

2) I have a mech fuel pump. stock tank. new lines, new fuel filter, Holly 2BB carb. When the tank is fuel, she runs awesome... below 1/2 a tank, shell start to cut out a tad here and there when im cruising in any gear (3 speed manual). Wondering if I have a crappy fuel pump in terms of its ability to draw fuel from an emptying tank? Or is there an adjustment on the carb needed? any thoughts?

Thanks guy!

For the electrical part, test the wires going to the regulator again to make sure that the voltages match at the two powered wires.
In other words, the Yellow wire should have full battery voltage all the time, and the Red w/green wire should have full battery voltage only when the key is on.
With the engine off and the key on, both of those wires should have exactly the same voltages. Any variance means that there is a fault somewhere.

Positions are FSAI on the regulator. "F" is your Orange Field wire, "S" is your switched Green w/red wire, and "A" is your always-on Yellow wire.
If you have the secondary Yellow wire going to the radio noise supressor bolted to the side of the regulator, unplug it temporarily to eliminate it as a variable.
If any of the voltage readings don't match the batter exactly, find out where the resistance is and fix it.

If not, I'll try to come up with a Plan-B

Good luck.

Paul

And is that little Black w/red ground wire running straight to the voltage regulator's mounting screw? Just making sure there.
The other end (at the alternator) is that little mounting ring that's molded into the rubber strain-relief.
Not that things can't work without it, but it's better to have it.

Paul

Be sure the points of contact between the altenator & engine are clean. The only thing that should be on them (if anything) is electrical (not DIelectric) grease on clean, shiny metal. No paint or clearcoat.



Next time the engine sputters, pull over & remove the gas cap to see if it's pulling a vacuum in the tank.