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Door adjustment w/new weather stripping??? I'm Stumped

66fora69er

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2006
Messages
479
My 66 has not had weather stripping around the lower door openings since I've had it so the doors have always rattled and had too much in and out play when closed. I bought the weather stripping and installed it last night...looks great. BUT the door doesnt close right and is not flush with the rear body panel like it was before the weather stripping and now the door has to be slammed to close it. I tried strike post adjustment and hinge adjustment. The best I can get it is still tough to close. I have only done the driver side so far. Ideas??? Thanks
 

rwill

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
522
Door

I have much the same issue, after new stripping following a paint job. If you figure it out please post solution.
 

deltarat

Bronco Guru
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Jul 12, 2006
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3,371
Loc.
Drew,Ms
My stripping has been on for 2 years and you still have to slam the doors really hard to get them closed. You have to roll the window down to close them from the inside. I adjusted for days, but to get the doors to line up, they have to be slammed hard as hell.
 

ugly74

Bronco abuser
Joined
Apr 17, 2006
Messages
2,847
bullshit! align the doors, and the weatherstrip will do all it can. if your doors are sloppy enough to be effected by low density rubber weatherstrip, that there is your problem.
 
OP
OP
66fora69er

66fora69er

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Dec 9, 2006
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Well I just installed the passenger side and the door shuts great. the driver door was the one that was previously sloppy and I re-built those hinges last year, it shut great before the weather stripping (no slop). Funny thing is, the passenger side had been wrecked by the PO, i uncoverd a lot of bondo and replaced the rocker on that side. If I was gonna have fitment issues I thought it'd be the passenger side Thanks for all the replys and I will keep working on the driver side.
 
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66fora69er

66fora69er

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Sr. Member
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Dec 9, 2006
Messages
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It depends on where you bought your weatherstripping from. Most of the reproductions are just too thick for the door to close without having to slam it shut. Here's a link to a previous thread, with other members experiences.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95823&highlight=Door+slam

Thanks, I forget to do a search sometimes. apparently its an on going problem

I'm gonna try this that I found from the previous thread "this can be fixed by carefully tapping the pinch welds in evenly"
 

deltarat

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Jul 12, 2006
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3,371
Loc.
Drew,Ms
I installed new hinges and striker and cleaned and lubed the door latch. The doors were aligned great before the stripping was installed. They are still aligned when you get the door shut. It is just hell to shut the door.
 
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66fora69er

66fora69er

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2006
Messages
479
I installed new hinges and striker and cleaned and lubed the door latch. The doors were aligned great before the stripping was installed. They are still aligned when you get the door shut. It is just hell to shut the door.

yeah, I was waiting for the neighbors to call the cops. I bet I slammed that door 30+ times last night. I'm sure there was some foul language a few times;D
 

73explorer

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2004
Messages
115
Loc.
Fayetteville, NC
if you read the other thread, you will see the problem with the aftermarket seals - they dont "crush" correctly. i spent a few hours with this a while back AFTER i broke the door handle mechanism from slamming it x100 - folks, it WILL break something if you slam it often enough - i remember my dad blessing me out years ago for slamming the car door.... and they will NOT "settle in" after time.
so my simple fix was to release some of the pressure/flex on the seal by cutting a slit on the BOTTOM part (the part you cant see) with a razor and amazingly the door shut like a brand new lexus. i think air may get trapped in the channels - like trying to shut a door with a balloon in the way - the door would just spring back. odd fix, but it worked perfectly. i dont see any cons to the slit - the door shuts tight and no water or wind get in - the 2 pieces now just crush together.
also keep in mind this is for a door that will shut properly to start with without the seal. remember that a 35+ year old drivers door has been opened and closed 1,000's of times and the hinge pins get shot. most of the time its the drivers door that is the problem.

====
OT, but dont ever buy the repro Scott Drake door handles/mechanism - they are POS - i've busted my 2nd one in 3 years on the drivers side - they might be ok for a show car that gets used 6 times a year, but not a DD.
 

deltarat

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Messages
3,371
Loc.
Drew,Ms
if you read the other thread, you will see the problem with the aftermarket seals - they dont "crush" correctly. i spent a few hours with this a while back AFTER i broke the door handle mechanism from slamming it x100 - folks, it WILL break something if you slam it often enough - i remember my dad blessing me out years ago for slamming the car door.... and they will NOT "settle in" after time.
so my simple fix was to release some of the pressure/flex on the seal by cutting a slit on the BOTTOM part (the part you cant see) with a razor and amazingly the door shut like a brand new lexus. i think air may get trapped in the channels - like trying to shut a door with a balloon in the way - the door would just spring back. odd fix, but it worked perfectly. i dont see any cons to the slit - the door shuts tight and no water or wind get in - the 2 pieces now just crush together.
also keep in mind this is for a door that will shut properly to start with without the seal. remember that a 35+ year old drivers door has been opened and closed 1,000's of times and the hinge pins get shot. most of the time its the drivers door that is the problem.

====
OT, but dont ever buy the repro Scott Drake door handles/mechanism - they are POS - i've busted my 2nd one in 3 years on the drivers side - they might be ok for a show car that gets used 6 times a year, but not a DD.


Do you have any pictures of exactly where you cut and how many places.
 

MarsChariot

Contributor
Planetary Offroader
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Oct 12, 2004
Messages
2,469
Loc.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
........so my simple fix was to release some of the pressure/flex on the seal by cutting a slit on the BOTTOM part (the part you cant see) with a razor and amazingly the door shut like a brand new lexus. i think air may get trapped in the channels - like trying to shut a door with a balloon in the way - the door would just spring back. odd fix, but it worked perfectly. .


73explorer,
I think you answered the question. Now we all need to give it a try. This actually reminded me that I had an idea the last time this topic came up: I actually have over-the-Ford-counter OEM seals on the '71, bought in 1979 or some such. It was with these that I was able to compare them with the new aftermarket stuff and discovered that the new ones are too dense, and have too little crush space. BUT, another thing I discovered was the presence of little holes drilled through each rubber to the inner air space. These I believe accomplish what 73explorer is talking about. In fact, this reminds me that I had that on my to-do list for the '76, which has new aftermarket rubber. Those doors have to be slammed so hard, something is going to break.

But body to door alignment is not the only solution either. The doors on the '71 closed just fine until I had them off for the off the frame restoration. I went back with the same OEM rubber, and now they are hard to close. The thing that is different is the doors are now all pretty and aligned with the body panels. It is pretty clear that the door positioning for easy closure and the door positioning for alignment with exterior panels is not the same thing.
 

greatguy57078

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 15, 2006
Messages
3,428
So is there one company that makes a better seal than the other? I have to replace the seals on my trucks someday soon, and would like to know what to buy that has the best results.
 
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