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Toggle switches for ignition, headlights, wiper

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,312
I've had a couple requests for toggle switch replacements for ignition, wiper and headlight switches over the last year so here are some diagrams.

Ignition switch: Biggest pro is ease of use. Biggest con is ease of theft. Fairly simple circuit to construct and everything should work as before with the exception of the brake warning light during cranking.

Headlight switch: A tougher circuit to simplify with a single toggle. It requires headlight relays. Everything should work the same except for the dash light dimmer. It would be on full brightness whenever the park or head lights are on. The relays will help brighten your lights if you're not using them yet.

Wiper switch: Another complex circuit. A relay is required to provide the PARK function which was built into the original switch. A separate momentary switch is needed for the washers.
 

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Last edited:

NYLES

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 13, 2004
Messages
9,846
VW has just become a teacher,very impressed with your dedication to CB!

Thanks man!

I was just thinkin of installing a switch panel in mine...great timin! for this.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,821
You can do away with the diodes if you use DPDT switches. If the switches are pinned
12
34
56

1 and 5 are park lights
3 and 4 are power (if fused seperatly you could loose park or headlights without loosing the other)
6 is headlights
2 is not used

Same wiring will also work for ignition/accessory. Just replace park lights with accessory and headlights with ignition.
 
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Viperwolf1

Viperwolf1

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electron whisperer
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I already did the electronics instructor thing. Long hours and not very challenging. I prefered to blow crap up and break things.
 
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Viperwolf1

Viperwolf1

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Messages
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You can do away with the diodes if you use DPDT switches. If the switches are pinned
12
34
56

1 and 5 are park lights
3 and 4 are power (if fused seperatly you could loose park or headlights without loosing the other)
6 is headlights
2 is not used

Same wiring will also work for ignition/accessory. Just replace park lights with accessory and headlights with ignition.

Yes, that will work and it simplifies the circuit some.
 

fungus

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May 27, 2009
Messages
1,548
Loc.
Kaneohe Bay, Oahu
VW, I was just thinking about this this week. What about a "master" on/ off kill switch (outta sight to help w/ theft) with toggles for ignition, fuel pump & a push botton start switch. I'm thinking of using MIL SPEC switches w/ guards to match my USMC theme of this build plus my F-18 had lots of switches and I miss'em...
 
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Viperwolf1

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
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Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,312
VW, I was just thinking about this this week. What about a "master" on/ off kill switch (outta sight to help w/ theft) with toggles for ignition, fuel pump & a push botton start switch. I'm thinking of using MIL SPEC switches w/ guards to match my USMC theme of this build plus my F-18 had lots of switches and I miss'em...

The master kill switch can be a high current continous duty relay/solenoid under the hood or dash with a hidden control switch inside the cab. You could even use a reed switch behind the dash to control the relay/solenoid. That way you wouldn't even need to reach for the switch. Just stick a magnet over it to enable it. Pull the magnet off to kill it.
 

fungus

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Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
1,548
Loc.
Kaneohe Bay, Oahu
The master kill switch can be a high current continous duty relay/solenoid under the hood or dash with a hidden control switch inside the cab. You could even use a reed switch behind the dash to control the relay/solenoid. That way you wouldn't even need to reach for the switch. Just stick a magnet over it to enable it. Pull the magnet off to kill it.

Cool. I was thinking of a switch that is spring loaded and you have to pull out then up or down to throw it. Just like the "master arm" I had in the jet.;D Maybe even make some lights that say "ARM", "SAFE" LOL!
 
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Viperwolf1

Viperwolf1

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Cool. I was thinking of a switch that is spring loaded and you have to pull out then up or down to throw it. Just like the "master arm" I had in the jet.;D Maybe even make some lights that say "ARM", "SAFE" LOL!

These arm some mil spec locking toggles I use in my Bronco.
 

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68ford

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Dec 26, 2004
Messages
2,710
without a lot of thought put into it, couldnt you run toggles that are off-on-on for ignition and headlamps? i run a off on on for my headlamps, 1st on position makes continuity between 2 of the 3 terminals on the back, this turns on my running lights and dash lights. then when switched to the other on position, its all on, continuity between all 3 terminals on the back, so it keeps dash and running lights on, but now turns on the headlamps.
you could have the same set up for ignition switch, it would just have to function in the off-acc-run order. but you could eliminate the need for diodes.

sounds like you like diodes. i drew up a schematic for making turn signals work using a on off on toggle switch, 2 diodes and 4 relays. i could not seem to make it any simpler than that if i wanted to keep the brake lights and rear turn signals the same bulbs.
 

68ford

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Dec 26, 2004
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2,710
here is one and they even state it is usually used for headlamps.
13-221%20dia_1.jpg

http://www.k-four.net/Product.aspx?pid=64#
 

HollywoodC

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Messages
498
so what is the difference between on-off-on and off-on-on?
would one be more preferred for wiper and headlight switches?
 

lonesouth

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Dec 18, 2003
Messages
5,045
In reality, you can take this as far as you want. I had my last bronco set to run on a single toggle and single momentary. This included fuel pump, headlights and tail lights. If you want a kill switch, a toggle with ground on one side and coil + on the other should suffice. With enough time, wire and relays, you can do just about anything. Pick up a book on basic hardware logic and you'll be designing basic circuits in no time.

All the same, thanks VW for putting in the time to lay out the circuits in such an easy to use format!!!
 

lonicus

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Dec 27, 2009
Messages
267
Loc.
Costa Mesa
Hazard Lights?

To add to this thread: Im trying to get the Hazards to work off a STDP rocker switch, but am having problems with seperating the rear signals. Can get the front T/S isolated (so that both DONT flash when you use the TS switch) but can't get the rear isolated.

It seems that the Red-Black wire from the stop lamp switch powers the rear turn signals, but if you combine it with either bank for the front signals (White-Bule or Green-White) it will turn both rear blinkers on.

Any ideas how to seperate the rear signal? I'm sure I need a diode.. somewhere...

P.S. (edit) I decided that you need to use a breaker for the headlights since I have blown three fuses wiring it worng so far.

I will try to come up with a diagram to show it a bit better.
 
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Viperwolf1

Viperwolf1

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Messages
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To add to this thread: Im trying to get the Hazards to work off a STDP rocker switch, but am having problems with seperating the rear signals. Can get the front T/S isolated (so that both DONT flash when you use the TS switch) but can't get the rear isolated.

It seems that the Red-Black wire from the stop lamp switch powers the rear turn signals, but if you combine it with either bank for the front signals (White-Bule or Green-White) it will turn both rear blinkers on.

Any ideas how to seperate the rear signal? I'm sure I need a diode.. somewhere...

P.S. (edit) I decided that you need to use a breaker for the headlights since I have blown three fuses wiring it worng so far.

I will try to come up with a diagram to show it a bit better.

Easiest way is to use a single throw, 4 pole switch like the factory did.
 

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lonicus

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Costa Mesa
Easiest way is to use a single throw, 4 pole switch like the factory did.

Problem is, I can't find a 4 pole switch that matches the other rockers I have. I would prefer to use similar rockers for all switches for astectic (sp?) reasons. This, admitedly, makes wiring more complicated for some things.

BTW, thanks for the wiper setup - I am using that one at the beginning of the thread. Havent routed power to it yet, hopefully it works!
 

lonicus

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I think this may work, if I have the diode placed correctly, this would prevent the STOP signal from backfeeding into the TS. I think..
 

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HollywoodC

Sr. Member
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Jan 6, 2009
Messages
498
Hazard Light switch:
What if you just used a 3 contact SPST and combine all the wires into one and connect to a single contact? Would that burn something up?
 
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