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Engine plumbing and wiring questions

Nightstick

Bronco guy
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,929
I'm finishing up the centech harness install, and getting everything right before I fire it up. I came across a few areas that I'm just not sure of, and need a hand figuring things out. Forgive me for not knowing some of the terminology, but feel free to enlighten me as to what it's called...

Where does the alternator get grounded to, and why does it have two ground terminals? Also what wire goes to the "STA" terminal of the alt? there's no STA wire in the centech harness so I'm lost. I looked at the original wiring diagram and it just has a bunch of squigly things there, lol (man this guy is dumb).

Where does the vacuum advance hose get routed to? I'm assuming it's on the carb somewhere, but I don't see a place for it. Maybe I need a fitting or something.

Are dipsticks normally fairly easy to pull out (meaning the sheath and all not just the dipstick itself) or am I looking at getting a new oil pan? Can it be secured somehow to avoid that?

I think that's about it for now, thanks!!! Feel free to draw on my pics and repost them.
 

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Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,878
For the wiring.
The body of the alternator is the ground. The extra studs on the body are rpobably handy for attaching some factory wiring somewhere, but you don't need anything special. Just leave those posts empty.

The STA is the stator post. If you had an electric choke (from your photo you don't) it would be the power wire to the choke heater element.

Now the vacuum line, I forget the exact spot on the carb. But on the front of the carb there should be a nipple that has vacuum at cruise speed but not at idle, that is the place to put the vacuum advance.
 
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Nightstick

Nightstick

Bronco guy
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,929
There's no nipple on the front of the carb. Just so I am correct as to what I'm talking about. I'm referring to the forward vacuum line on the thing that's attached to the dizzy. The rear one is plugged, which I'm told is correct.

Also, do I have the lines routed correctly for a heater bypass?
 

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shamu

Lucky as the day is long.
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
5,290
Loc.
Sachse,Tx
I sent you a text
 

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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,483
See if the side hole is plugged or goes all the way through still. If still open, then the tube/nipple has come out and needs to be replaced. There is usually one there in the front under the float bowl and to the right of the fuel filter too, If I remember. If you just have a hole there too, then the same goes for that one.
Here again "if I remember" the front one is full vacuum all the time and the side one is "ported" for use with the front fitting on the distributor.

Just FYI too, one of those tiny holes on the side of the carb, where the choke mechanism should be bolted, is also a through-hole that sees a little vacuum. It's for the choke and will be a vacuum leak if you don't at least plug it.
Same for the other holes too. If you're not going to use them, and they're not already plugged, then you'll need to plug them or you'll have some serious vacuum leakage.

The factory grounds the alternator directly to the voltage regulator through one of those bolts. If you're still using the stock externally regulated alternator, I would run a separate ground wire from either one of those studs to one of the bolts that holds the regulator to the body.
The fact that the alternator itself grounds through the case to the engine, is another good reason to have a very good ground wire from the battery directly to the engine block. And another one from the battery to the body. And another one from the engine to the body. And another one from either one of those to the frame. And still another one from the dashboard to the body. And not-quite-lastly, another one from the dash to the instrument cluster.
I even had to add one from the fenders to the core-support because the spot-welded seams had gotten rusty enough over 40 years that the headlights and turn-signals didn't want to work reliably.
Luckily, Centech includes a decent grounding scheme and each dash light has it's own ground wire instead of grounding through the housing.
But still, there's no such thing as too many grounds.

Been so long, I forget how the dipstick sheath comes out of an EB pan. Not crazy-hard though, if I remember. Press-in maybe?
Someone will know.

Paul
 
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Nightstick

Nightstick

Bronco guy
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,929
Paul, I hope you can type well! Thanks again for your help.

Sounds like I need a different carb. Luckily another member has offered one to me. I also like the ground wire idea, you can never have too many of those.
 
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