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Fuse Panel Ideas

Airmapper

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Mar 15, 2006
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Bowling Green, KY
In my last thread I was working on some electrical problems with my charging system. While I was sorting that mess out (and still am to a degree) I found several other wiring issues that were not in the main charging system but still need to be fixed.

Most issues I have are where a PO added stuff onto the wiring harness. There are exposed wires, excessive use of crimp connectors, and in my opinion poor choices in where to tap into 12v power, and in addition a lot of long runs of hot unmarked wires running around places they don't need to be.

I want to run this by you all and see if I have a good plan. Suggestions and recommendations are very much welcomed.

1. Use a relay switched on by key on ACC. (Hot with Acc and Run, but not start correct?) This relay will switch power from a wire to 12v hot from the start relay post.

2. Relay activates a fuse panel. I'm looking at a Bussmann that uses 1 hot wire in and has 6 out connectors that are fused by ATC blade type fuses. (I might need more later on? See later part of post.)

Here is the fuse block I'm looking at, it's on the right side of the page. I can get a 6 port at NAPA for $20: 15600 Fuse Panels - ATC Footprint

3. Connect my accessories.

4. For my electric radiator fan, add a relay (possibly delayed? So it won't run until I have time to get the engine running.) to that hot wire switched by a key on (RUN) hot interrupted by a manual switch in the cab. This would allow me to turn the fan off when not needed. (Probably a future topic when I go over my cooling system.)

Here is my current list of accessories I need to hook up or plan to hook up.

Electric radiator fan
Electric choke
Planned CB radio
Planned in cab 12v power point of some kind, possibly a 2-3 power point strip run off same wire.
Possible lighting?

That is 5 accessories right there for a 6 port block. I suppose I could combine some in cab accessories to one hot wire coming in, say my 12v ports and CB together. (Might add additional inline fuses, which I was hoping to avoid.)

Would I be better off with an 8 post, more? Or would I be good with 6, and not worry about it until I fill that up, if ever. Also, how much can you safely run off one of these and will the wires be adequate. I'm thinking about 10-12 ga on most of this stuff.

And lastly, any photos or just descriptions of how some of you set up your accessory wiring would be great to give me ideas.
 

66/75bronco

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Jan 5, 2008
Messages
102
Loc.
Redfield Arkansas
I robbed a complete fuse/relay assembly off a Taurus along with a good amount of the harness. Its the one from under the hood and it was loaded with fuses and relays. I mounted it under the hood by the battery. It even has the Mega fuse for the 3g alternator upgrade. Now I have a ton of fuse slots and relays. Some are powered by the key and some are always hot. If you do this grab the mounting bracket also. Cost $30 at the junk yard. I run my CD player, amp, headlight harness, heated seats, 12v outlets and the 3g alternator. It works for me.
 

BroncoDawg

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Mar 4, 2005
Messages
672
Loc.
Bishop, CA
Your ideas sound good except for radiator fan and CB radio. I have CB constant hot and fan is switched, but not thru key. When stopped on the trail, waiting at an obstacle, I like to leave my fan switch on as helps cool the rig down a bunch. When I come back and start it, she's cool as can be.
Also like having the CB on when parked on the trail or in camp if hoping to hear from someone. CB uses almost no power when just listening and won't draw down a good battery for a long time. Good luck with the wiring.
 

red hot71

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Nov 26, 2009
Messages
648
Loc.
kent wash.
As said earlier hit the wrecking yard and see whats out there. I found a 7 relay, with 10 fused circuts and two mega fuses sub panel with cover. Size is 4.5x6.5x3.5depth with 2" snap on cover,add 11 circut centech wiring harness pert much covers everything you can think of. I also rewired the centech harness to remove alot of the demaned from it and now it runs thur the sub panel,my panel is under the dash in a area next to the glove box (I moved the glove box for cage clearence). If you are going to run the panel under hood get the cover,hydrogen gas (from battery)is very crosive to electical contacts and plastic wiring. From what you have planed I can see that you have a good idea of whats going on.
 

DanWheeler

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 8, 2005
Messages
2,549
Loc.
Kirkland, WA
Crown Vic from junkyard. pull 3 and use the wires to make 1 good one.

4 relays and lots of fuses (big and small)

761327560_rGQMY-M.jpg


738380105_uSsWX-S.jpg


you can get into the guts of the factory fuse panels, tear them apart and rewire them with a little time:

761327847_5hRov-S-1.jpg


main bus on fuse panel goes through a maxi fuse then to a relay which is triggered by the key/ACC like you mentioned. That power goes up to a switch panel on the dash which powers all my switches some of which power other relays from the same fuse panel. Watch out for feedback loops - I wired something wrong once that wouldn't let me turn the ignition off. :-[

switch panel on the left
778989506_RLhLk-S.jpg


658446026_gziAi-S.jpg


Wiring can be an art or a rats nest. It's especially difficult when trying to retrofit new wiring into the old 30-40 year old mess. Always use a properly sized relay for anything drawing a significant amount of power and use a fuse for every circuit if possible.

I would just say, dont bite off more than you can chew and doing things in stages is OK. Getting the electrical under control can take years.

good luck!
 

DanWheeler

Bronco Guru
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Messages
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Kirkland, WA
oh and for your radiator fan - I would recommend a thermostatic switch of some sort that turns the fan on when it gets hot enough. You dont want your electric fan running all the time because that would be hard on the motor.

if you have an interrupt switch for the fan for water crossings, I would recommend wiring up a buzzer that goes off when the fan is turned off. Otherwise you may forgot to turn it back on after crossing.

take a read through ViperWolf's liberty fan article. lots of good info:
http://classicbroncos.com/tech/liberty-electric-fan-for-your-early-bronco

you may also find some useful tidbits in my explorer radiator/taurus fan thread:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152260
 

Steve83

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Jul 16, 2003
Messages
8,976
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Memphis, TN, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Definitely shop at the JY - you get more & better for your money. I don't think all this cost me $20:



Instead of a time delay for the fan, you should use a temperature switch. They're also cheap & easy-to-find in the JY. I like the 170° dry switch used on '87-88 4.9L fuel rails, but there are others. It can be set up with a manual switch to force the fan on, keep it off, or let it run automatically. Likewise, you can have a simple switch near each power point to make it always on or switched.
 
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Airmapper

Airmapper

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Wow, a lot of great info, thanks guys!

Sounds like I need to address the fan by itself, or at least plan ahead for it in whatever I do with a fuse box. I have other issues with the cooling system so I may have to go over it and then come back.

Dan, your setup is awesome. Gives me a lot of ideas but I know it's over my head for the moment. Sounds like my first stage needs to be to get what has to work under control and keep moving up from there.

I will hold off before I do anything now and visit the JY and see what I can find. I like the looks of the OEM Ford car boxes.

And regarding that, here is a pic to show what I have right now. I'm finishing up a 3G alt conversion, haven't tested it yet though as I still need the harness for the voltage regulator. Anyway that area is where I'd like to mount electrical stuff if I can.

Hey Steve, see my (+) connector! No more cheap lead terminal!

IMG_3933_800_600.JPG
 

DanWheeler

Bronco Guru
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Nov 8, 2005
Messages
2,549
Loc.
Kirkland, WA
those fuse panels you linked to will work great to get things under control. I ran a few of those for years. Only problem is they are kind of exposed especially the power lead.

you're definitely on the right track. You may want to have one fuse panel in the engine bay and one inside the cab.
 

Greg_B

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Apr 15, 2010
Messages
2,087
Loc.
Cohutta, GA
I mounted a seperate fuse panel right behind the ash tray... I can pull the ash tray out and get to the fuses or add wires to the distribution terminals easily. I also mounted several relays to the back of it for lights and other stuff.

It was one of those marine style panels from West Marine.

Worked well so far.

Greg
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,275
I like how your alternator looks to be mounted a bit to the high-side of things Airmapper. That way you should have slightly more engagement between the belt and pulley. Which, with luck, will keep any squealing belts at bay.
Or at least keep the slipping to a bare minimum I would think.

And with the adjuster bracket on the top side, looks like adjusting the belt tension will be easier too.

Paul
 
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Airmapper

Airmapper

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Thanks, more great info there.

I worked on the wiring some today. I ripped out a loooong run of wires that had a bad spot rubbed in them and didn't work. I have a new accessory to add to the list though, apparently my drivers seat is motorized. (Not a complete surprise as I seen the motors, but I didn't know it was actually wired in since it's never worked. I need to test it.)

I started to dig through the stock harness cause for some reason it's all cut up in places and a whole section going to the rear is gone. That could be a whole thread of it's own though.

I may get that Bussmann fuse block just to tidy things up for the moment, but after you all mentioned the JY deals I find it hard to pay $20 for something I will want to replace later. May still hit the JY first and see if I can find a fairly simple OEM fuse block to start with.

Thanks or the diagrams Steve, I'll use those later. I need to go hunting for a thermostat switch, I really like that idea.

Paul I wish I could take credit for the alternator mounting, but the brackets were like that when I got it so I put the 3G in there. I was surprised how easy it fit. When I get my harness for the voltage reg. I'll post up some more pics and report on if everything goes well.
 
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Airmapper

Airmapper

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UPDATE:

I've accumulated some parts now, was planning to spread this out a little more, but decided to dive into the wiring or else it was going to bug me forever.

I got 2 new 6 ATC blade fuse blocks from Centech. My plan it so mount them to a piece of UHMW plastic I got as scrap from work and mount them side by side on the plastic block and that mounted to the stock fuse block position on the firewall. One will be a direct replacement for the stock block, and the second will be for interior accessories that need fuses.

I made a haul at the junkyard today as well. Lots of newer Ford trucks and SUV's to pick from, and this is the only junkyard I like cause the owners don't care if I go digging around.

I got the complete fuse block, relay box, and mini fuse box from a Ford Expedition, I think early 2000's model. I also got as much of the harness as I could around it.

I found one box on the ground, I cant remember if it was under an F-150, but I grabbed it for parts and fuses, relays, and stuff. Little dirty but it looks like the insides were in good shape for scrap parts.

I also got 2 Explorer relay boxes, and I found a section of harness laying on the ground under a Dodge, figured the bundle of wires might come in handy for having a ton of different striped wires I can rig up a switch panel with and had wire colors I can keep separated.

Gave $50 for the lot, he asked $35 for the Expedition stuff, so that makes $15 for the other stuff. Seemed fair to me, I'm sure there are cheaper places, but he is the best Junkyard in the area I've found, they rest have annoyed me in one way or another, don't want you looking by yourself, or want you to sign a release and wear a grungy hardhat no telling who else head's been in.

IMG_1093_800_600.JPG


IMG_1098_800_600.JPG
 
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DanWheeler

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score!

Now comes the fun part of dissecting the innards and figuring out where everything goes and splicing things together and moving the spades around so every fuse and relay has a simple output.

All the red plastic parts are removable and will allow access to remove the spade connectors by pushing the tab in with a slim tool of any type. Just be careful not to break the red plastic because it is brittle.
 
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Airmapper

Airmapper

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Thanks for the tips, I need to find me a good small tool to press tabs with. I'd hate to break any, I couldn't find any panels I liked and could get multiples of.

Is there any way to tell what the amp ratings are on the relays? Also any info on the smaller type relays, a diagram of how to wire them would be helpful, I think they are like the bigger square ones but lower rating, and different numbers on the blades.
 

Steve83

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Read these captions:



I think the small relays are still rated for 30A, but some online shopping for aftermarket replacements should answer that question. Their internal wiring should be molded or printed onto their cases, just like the square ones.
 
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Airmapper

Airmapper

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I've completely disassembled the main box now. Came apart pretty easily, (thank to the tips you guys provided) but I did break a few tabs letting the connectors out, no big deal though as I'll have more slots than I'll need anyway.

I'd like to keep the main cable as is, it's a heavy gauge (like 4 or 6) but I'm really wanting to have it key on hot only. I understand there are a few times I might want something powered when the key is off, but I'd rather just accomplish that by flipping over to ACC. That is what it's for and following Murphey's Law I need as much as possible to go dead when I flip the key off. Only thing I can think of I might rig up constant hot is the CB, and I can use the Ammeter loop for that I believe.

I'll need a large relay, such as a starter relay, correct, to make the fuse block go hot with key on/ ACC only? Can I actually use a start relay or do I need a specific kind?
 

DanWheeler

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i understand your reasoning for switching the entire fuse panel but I would really recommend just keeping the whole thing hot and switching your accessories as needed. What if your continuous duty relay went out on the trail and took all your accessories with it? I say just do it like stock - Ford does it that way for a reason.
 
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