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3 speed tranmission rebuild project

matts70

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2009
Messages
443
Loc.
Northwest Indiana
I have a Ford shop manual. It says to hold the countershaft gear with a hook and use some tool to push the countershaft out the rear of the case. Looking at the transmission, these instructions make no sense.

How do I get the countershaft out? If there's a link somewhere, by all means refer me to it, but I didn't find it.

I'm on step 7 of 24.
 

dredgenot

Newbie
Joined
May 23, 2004
Messages
49
In step 6, did you remove the roll pin? In step 7, the hook is to hold the end of the countershaft gear so it does not drop when you push out the countershaft. The tool they are talking about is a smaller diameter shaft than the countershaft. You use it to drive the countershaft out of the case. I've used a brass punch of similar size and a mallet.
 

Boss351

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2007
Messages
510
Loc.
Foxboro
Use a piece of water pipe thats the same length as the countershaft just the gear section remove the fill plug and knock the roll pin out that locks the shaft into the case take the water pipe using it as a punch and bang the pin out through the rear of the case and the pipe will hold the bearings in place while allowing the countershaft gears to fall in the case and then you can remove the input and output
 

ThrillHouse

Newbie
Joined
Jul 20, 2011
Messages
4
In step 6, did you remove the roll pin? In step 7, the hook is to hold the end of the countershaft gear so it does not drop when you push out the countershaft. The tool they are talking about is a smaller diameter shaft than the countershaft. You use it to drive the countershaft out of the case. I've used a brass punch of similar size and a mallet.


X2 on this, I'm going through the same thing, except I have to replace the reverse gearset and reverse idler gear. Took 3 days to find the parts and then they sent the wrong ones so I'm stuck waiting for replacements.
 
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matts70

matts70

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2009
Messages
443
Loc.
Northwest Indiana
OK, the counter shaft is now out. BUT, I'm at step 9--I have the snap ring removed, but the bearing only comes out so far and stops and the output shaft isn't coming out either. The output shaft is stuck there and the bearing is stuck to the output shaft. What do I have to do to get this to come out?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,275
You trying to pull the input shaft out the top, or out the front? I had instructions that said pull it out the front of the case after removing the bearing retainer. Didn't happen.
Maybe on some 3-speeds, but not ours. Has to come out the top.
If you're trying to pull it out the top and it's still not working, keep trying. I remember it being awkward the first time even though everything seemed to be where it was supposed to be.

Got pics of what you're doing? Maybe with pics, one of the experts can see what's up.

Paul
 

Boss351

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2007
Messages
510
Loc.
Foxboro
Sounds like your at the point where its bound up with looseness. Try prying rear bearing off while banging on out put shaft. Are the shift forks out?
 
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matts70

matts70

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2009
Messages
443
Loc.
Northwest Indiana
I got everything taken apart finally and I gotta get this thing completed soon.

Is there any need to remove the 1st and Reverse Synchronizer? It's on there pretty good and requires an arbor press that I don't have. The synchronizer does have some play in it front-to-back, but very little. I'm assuming this is normal. Any advice??
 
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matts70

matts70

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2009
Messages
443
Loc.
Northwest Indiana
Also, I got my rebuild kit from the Graveyard--has anybody had any problems with the plastic thrust washers? It's probably no big deal, but it seems odd to me to have plastic washers in the tranny.
 

mhdtr33

New Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2014
Messages
1
Same project here, but I'm still stuck at trying to get the countershaft to drop enough out of the way for the input shaft bearing to pass through the case. It's blocking me by about a sixteenth of an inch and I can't figure it out. Did your input shaft bearing have to come off of the shaft for removal?

Did you end up replacing those synchronizers? How did that turn out? I'm in the same boat there, too.

Thanks
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,275
I thought the countershaft had to come all the way out first? Been a long time, so I don't remember.
But I did have to remove the front input bearing from the shaft so I could pull the entire input assembly out of the top (hence the name, top loader!;D) of mine, since the gear end of the shaft was too large to come through the front bearing hole. Wasn't going to happen.

So yeah, I had to do some additional dissasembly over and above what the book called for.
I'm betting that it's the different 1st gear ratios that makes the difference. The boxes with the lower first gear have to use the top. While the boxes equipped with the taller first gear can simply be pulled right out the front. Maybe...

Good luck. Hopefully someone that knows for sure will pipe in.

Paul
 

broncodriver99

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
4,780
Loc.
Glen Allen, VA
They all come out of the front, even the 4 speeds. Ford does make a special bearing puller that makes it a little easier. There is a spot on the synchro part of the input shaft that in machined flat. Looks like a couple of teeth are missing. You align that area to the countershaft and it nets you a little additional clearance. Depending on the cluster gear and ratios sometimes you have to hold the cluster gear(countershaft) off to the side, not just let it drop to the bottom of the case. I have had a couple that were really tight and took some work, but they all eventually came out of the front.
 
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