floor pan dilemma

bptommy · Jul 27, 2011

Im replacing my floor pans and need some advice. This is my first time doing metal work so forgive any stupid questions or assumptions on my part. When I cut my pas. Side floor out I had to take more metal than the new floor pan will cover the metal thats left is good so now I need to bridge the gap over the rear brace. My question is do I spend the 40.00 dollars on a new rear section cut out the good metal and have two new complete pieces to weld in or make a patch piece? If I should make a patch piece how should I weld all three together so that its strong? For example should I butt weld them or overlap the metal and lap weld them as well as plug weld on the overlap? To much heat? Also should I weld in the front portion then bridge the gap with the patch piece or weld the patch piece up to the new floor pan and put it in as one piece?

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated thanks.

fummins97 · Jul 27, 2011

just my 2 cents, but I would buy the longer version of the pass. side and sell the other one. Thats what I did, and its as strong or stronger then stock was, plus it was easier. Good luck with yours, I should have mine done tomorrow.

Devin · Jul 27, 2011

I would also buy the longer piece. Also, overlap the parts and plug/lap weld, IMO. That is how I did mine.

KS.76Sport · Jul 27, 2011

Im doing mine right now as well. Its a bad pic, but you can see how much the full piece covers anyway.

IMO the full section would be better for your repair. You'll need the piece you already have to cover the upper section though. This one is from JBG and it is much thicker than stock metal, a good piece.

Lap and plugs is what I did on the drivers side floor, very solid.

Rustytruck · Jul 27, 2011

Make sure your new patch pieces are set-up so the wet side of the installation drains over the seam and not into it wherever you can. Using available patch pannels is much easier for the novice. If your just going to cover the floor with insulation and carpet an exact look patch pannel is not needed unless you want to make an invisable repair so if some future restoration fanatic wont buy it because its not stock. If your just going with a sprayed in bed liner then a true to stock may be what any buyer may be looking for. Its kinda funny when you think about it because the Bronco floors rust out because of design flaws and everyone rebuilding them restore them back to the same factory flaws at great expense.

bad 68 · Jul 27, 2011

In my opinion floor pans should allways be welded in solid. Spot weld in your overlaps then make 1 inch welds alternated around untill the welds are complete. The problem is that water WILL get into the bronco from underneith but have trouble getting back out. Seam Sealer will work ok for a while but if you only plug weld thier will be too much flex and the seam sealer will fail and your carpet will trapp the moisture.
you can Plug weld the pan over the Floor Braces. Joints should be a continuous weld.

bptommy · Jul 29, 2011

thanks all

sfaforester · Nov 27, 2011

Lets see some pics of this re-build! ;D

DirtDonk · Nov 27, 2011

After seeing the last pic in your first post, I would be inspired to use some clear polycarbonate and glue it in!
I like seeing the suspension and stuff going on under there. Good for diagnosing funny noises. When you hear something, just have your spotter pull up the floor covering and go for a drive.

But then, I'm just sick that way...

Paul

Loggerhead · Nov 28, 2011

DirtDonk said:
After seeing the last pic in your first post, I would be inspired to use some clear polycarbonate and glue it in!
I like seeing the suspension and stuff going on under there. Good for diagnosing funny noises. When you hear something, just have your spotter pull up the floor covering and go for a drive.

But then, I'm just sick that way...

Paul

I like your line of thinking!!

half cab · Nov 28, 2011

DD always has a great line of thinking.He should have been an MX racer!!LOL

73azbronco · Nov 28, 2011

hey rustytruck, great point on rebuilding to the same design flaw, any way you know to make it better so it drains?

TwoDalesDad · Nov 30, 2011

I just removed the floorpan in a 66 bronco that sat for two years in the desert...very dry..anyway...the crossmember was full of sand which by the way was wet..very wet..two years and STILL WET...Its no wonder it looked like hell when I started to remove pieces alittle further and alittle more...and well once I finish it will be better than when henery ford drove it off the line....lol

floor pan dilemma

bptommy

Full Member

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fummins97

Full Member

Devin

Bronco Kineticist

KS.76Sport

Sr. Member

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Rustytruck

Bronco Guru

bad 68

Sr. Member

bptommy

Full Member

sfaforester

Bronco Guru

DirtDonk

Bronco Guru

Loggerhead

Jr. Member

half cab

Guru Bronco

73azbronco

Bronco Guru

TwoDalesDad

Bronco Guru

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