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IVR Questions

70 Steed

Full Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
268
Currently my fuel gauge doesn't work. All other gauges work. If the IVR was defective the other gauges wouldn't work, correct?

Also some here have suggested that you should pull out the gauge cluster to test and or remove the IVR. Is this necessary?
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Thats correct none of the other guages would work if the IVR was bad. Most likely its the sending unit that is bad. One quick way to tell is ground the wire going to the sending unit if the guage reads past full then the guage is good and the sending unit is your issue.
 
OP
OP
70 Steed

70 Steed

Full Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
268
The second part of my question is:


The second part of my question is:

Also some here have suggested that you should pull out the gauge cluster to test and or remove the IVR. Is this necessary?
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,316
The second part of my question is:


The second part of my question is:

Also some here have suggested that you should pull out the gauge cluster to test and or remove the IVR. Is this necessary?

No. One screw holds the IVR on.
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
No need to pull it to test it your other guages work. Also if you want to test output just test at one of the sending unit wires temp or oil pressure are easy to get to.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
Unless the gauge in question is your ammeter. In which case it doesn't work off the IVR anyway. It's direct-reading from the charge wire.
If you have a high-output alternator with a main charge wire that goes straight to the battery, then your old ammeter is now out of the loop. So to speak.

They do actually get old and fail too, but if the alternator/battery charge loop has been bypassed, there's your reason.

If it's not the ammeter, then all bets are off. But you need to be specific. There are four gauges in addition to the speedometer, and perhaps even owner-installed aftermarket gauges. More specific info would be helpful.

Paul
 
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OP
70 Steed

70 Steed

Full Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
268
Unless the gauge in question is your ammeter. In which case it doesn't work off the IVR anyway. It's direct-reading from the charge wire.
If you have a high-output alternator with a main charge wire that goes straight to the battery, then your old ammeter is now out of the loop. So to speak.

They do actually get old and fail too, but if the alternator/battery charge loop has been bypassed, there's your reason.

If it's not the ammeter, then all bets are off. But you need to be specific. There are four gauges in addition to the speedometer, and perhaps even owner-installed aftermarket gauges. More specific info would be helpful.

Paul

At the beginning of this thread I said it was my fuel gauge.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
Oops! So you did. Sorry Steed. Guess I read through it so fast I neglected to remember the most important detail.

Thanks for the correction.

Paul
 

broncosbybart

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 13, 2002
Messages
2,644
the fuel gauge works off of resistance (ohms). the sending unit is nothing more than a variable resistor. they aren't very durable. just do what was posted above. i'd be willing to bet it is a wiring or sending unit issue. seen both issues before on just about every rig i've owned.
 
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