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How to properly winterize your Bronco

hammer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 13, 2006
Messages
1,359
So this is the first bronco I've had that is not a daily driver. It will be garage stored for the winter. My insurance is up in 2 weeks so I'm starting to think about the winterization process. I've watched a few videos on youtube but thought I'd start a thread here as there is nothing really in the archives. I've never stored a vehicle before so as far as i know this is what i want to do;

Oil and filter change.
Sta-Bil added.
Coolant change.

Take it for one last rip to get the above moving around.

A good wash and wax.
Disconnect the battery.
Put it under a cover.


Anything else to it? My rig is topless all the time and fuel injected.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,833
Place on jackstands is also a good one. If that is not an option then max out the tire pressure. this will help keep the tires from flat spotting.

Search out winterizing a boat, there are a lot of good tips there. One of them is to fog the engine. Basicly spraying some fogging oil down the carb as you are shutting it down. Smokes bad but leaves an oily coating on the cylinder walls and valves that helps prevent rust and stuck parts.

If there are critters that can get into the garage some steel wool in the exhaust tips to keep them from filling the muffler with seeds and baby mice.

I would completely pull the battery, maybe put it on a maintance charger (battery tender). If the charge goes low and it gets real cold a battery can freeze.
 

daddycreswell

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
2,731
Loc.
Lebanon, TN
Sorry to hijack, mine is not a DD either but it will be in a heated garage, so what do I need to do to mine. I might put the top on and drive it every now and then but not much. Would I really need to do anything to it at all?
 

brewchief

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
871
For the past 15 plus years I've winterized my bronco the same way, I pull it into the garage. Last couple years I've unhooked my battery and hooked up a battery maintainer to prolong the life of my battery.
 

Tim in Az

Full Member
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
174
Loc.
Mesa
When i owned my boat there was always a on going debate on fuel tank. Half the folks suggested filling tank all the way full and adding stabil. The others suggusted empty as much as possible and add stabil. Still not sure to this day what the right answer is.
 

76 bronco J

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 20, 2005
Messages
1,480
When i owned my boat there was always a on going debate on fuel tank. Half the folks suggested filling tank all the way full and adding stabil. The others suggusted empty as much as possible and add stabil. Still not sure to this day what the right answer is.

>>> theory for having the tank full is there's no air space to let condensation form inside the tank.......
 

bknbronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2011
Messages
4,378
Loc.
North Metro, MN
First question how long are your winters? Our here in minnesota are like 8 months long!%)

Oil and filter change.
Not necessary but if it due anyway why not
Sta-Bil added.
Fill tank and add the stabil. Gas will last at least 6 months without it but its cheep insurance
Coolant change.
Also not necessary. The important thing weather you change it or not is to test it and make sure the freezing point is low enough. I make sure its good to at least -40deg but im in minnesota.

Take it for one last rip to get the above moving around.
A MUST! Just because.

A good wash and wax.
Not necessary but your bronco will always thank you for it
Disconnect the battery.
If your disconnecting it then you might as well bring it in the house. Dont let it sit on the concrete floor. And charge it every couple months maybe. On second thought dont take it out just make sure you charge it every other month.
Put it under a cover.
might as well


Id also make sure its clean inside as well so no rodents climb inside looking for a french fry that fell under the seat.
Dont let the tires go flat! Shouldnt be a problem unless you got a leaker.
Id maybe plug the exhaust if its being stored outside.
Storing a vehicle doesnt really involve anything special if your gona garage it. Just make sure you go out and talk to it once in a while!:p
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,316
I just roll the windows up and maybe turn the heater on.
 

ugly74

Bronco abuser
Joined
Apr 17, 2006
Messages
2,847
put on tire chains, make sure I have tow straps, make sure the heater works...;D
jk
jackstands are a good idea. maybe try and do some rodent proofing, like mothballs or lots of cedar chips
 

turbotim2

____________
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Messages
1,954
I usually run the gas down as low as I can, wash it and then park it. I would start it and let it run for 10 minutes or so once a month maybe. Before taking it out in the spring I change the oil and check all fluids.
 

backpain

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
1,094
. . . and ALWAYS write down what you did. Keep a list of what you did or write down a procedure to undo it. Leave the list in the vehicle or with the keys.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,833
I usually run the gas down as low as I can, wash it and then park it. I would start it and let it run for 10 minutes or so once a month maybe. Before taking it out in the spring I change the oil and check all fluids.

That 10 minute run once a month will do more harm then good. There is no way you will get it up to operating temperture (oil fully warmed up) to drive off the moisture you are creating. Short, cold operting cycles are the worst thing for an engine.
 

Bronco4x4

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2009
Messages
598
Completely fill the gas tank and use stable. Otherwise, the air space will cause oxidation (rust). Make sure to run the tank to near empty in the spring.
 

Heus33

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
7,407
Why would you change the oil / coolant before you put it up? Why not wait until you're ready to take it out again in the spring?
 

turbotim2

____________
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Messages
1,954
That 10 minute run once a month will do more harm then good. There is no way you will get it up to operating temperture (oil fully warmed up) to drive off the moisture you are creating. Short, cold operting cycles are the worst thing for an engine.

Hasn't caused any problems yet. It is also in a heated garage. Fuel additives don't do anything to the fuel (I'm ready for the negative comments about that!).
 

Desert Dweller

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
381
Loc.
Central WA
SHUCKS!!!! I've been doing it all wrong. I put the traction tires on (on steel wheels to save the slots from corrosion), make sure the chains are in the box, put a hotter thermostat in it, give it a lube job, and drive the H#*l out of it.......:cool:
 

Wyflyer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
2,920
Fill the fuel tank before parking, is one of the core rules about parking airplanes which also are stored for long periods between runs.
Water comes from condensation which comes from air space and heating and cooling cycles. Best case is full tanks and stable temp. Fog the engine good as Bowsher described. Modern oils contain water emulsifiers to keep water suspended, if you really want to be freaky careful you can change oil before and after storage, not something I'd do though
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Why would you change the oil / coolant before you put it up? Why not wait until you're ready to take it out again in the spring?

Old oil is full of acids and other bad stuff. It isn't good to store it that way because it will eat bearing material.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,833
Why would you change the oil / coolant before you put it up? Why not wait until you're ready to take it out again in the spring?

Couple reasons for the coolant. first is to make sure the freeze point is low enough for the are where the vehicle is stored. the other is corrosion. Fresh coolant to keep the galvanic corrosion at bay. Neither is really a storage item, just proper prevenative maintance and is good for all vehicle heading into winter weather stored or driven.

The oil change is to prevent bearinga damage. As posted above, acid. As the engine runs various compounds are formed. Some are acids and end up in the oil. There are additives in the oil to counteract the acids but they are part of the additive package that wears out. (remember that oil never wears out, it just gets contaiminated and the additives get used up) I have seen old engines that are missing the tip of the dipstick because they got eaten away. Better to have the engine stored with fresh oil then old oil.
 
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