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Manual E-Fan Switch

smcl2002

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2011
Messages
68
Loc.
Phoenix, AZ
Hey guys! I've got a 69 that the PO setup with dual 10 inch e-fans in addition to the main fan run by the engine. The e-fans were set up using a temperature controlled wiring setup that has stopped working. Knowing nothing about wiring, should I go and buy a new wiring kit ~$50?...or should I just run a simple manual switch to the dash? Any write-ups on running wiring to the dash for a manual switch?
 

taylorB

Full Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
215
Loc.
Canton, GA
Your local autoparts store should sell a relay, i picked one up from i believe it was autozone for 20 buks or so. and it was duel fan compatible. Works great and no switches.
 

taylorB

Full Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
215
Loc.
Canton, GA
one more thing, the wiring was simple, just cut to length, crimp on connectors, and connect to power. the trickiest part was drilling the hole for the little raly box thingy ;D
 

ugly74

Bronco abuser
Joined
Apr 17, 2006
Messages
2,847
why not just replace the faulty thermal switch? beats the hell out of constantly watching the gauge to see if it needs to be on (presuming the PO had it wired right to begin with). you could still keep a manual switch in the circuit, in case of waster crossings or whatever
 
OP
OP
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smcl2002

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2011
Messages
68
Loc.
Phoenix, AZ
Thanks guys for your ideas! Living in AZ, they'll almost always need to be on, so it's not that big of a deal for me to flip a switch on whenever I've had it running for 3 minutes...haha...gotta love the desert. Any ideas on my toggle switch location? Should I just drill a hole in my dash? I'd probably just do that down by the instrument cluster area i would guess...
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Thanks guys for your ideas! Living in AZ, they'll almost always need to be on, so it's not that big of a deal for me to flip a switch on whenever I've had it running for 3 minutes...haha...gotta love the desert. Any ideas on my toggle switch location? Should I just drill a hole in my dash? I'd probably just do that down by the instrument cluster area i would guess...
I live in the desert too, only use the stock mechanical fan, and I've never overheated, even when wheeling at 115°.

My suggestion is to make a bracket to mount the switch below the dash. I suspect eventually you'll want to remove the electric fans.
 
OP
OP
S

smcl2002

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2011
Messages
68
Loc.
Phoenix, AZ
Thanks! I might break down and attempt to replace the whole relay again. Checker/o'reilly's got the whole set-up for $35...so I might try my hand at it. I am just terrible at anything electrical! I agree though, if I can't get them working, I may just take them off. Without them working right now, they're acting like a big cover on the front of the radiator, restricting airflow. Thanks for all of your advice guys!
 

Broncorex

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2011
Messages
132
Loc.
East Tennessee
If you have the alternator for it, I would put it on a rocker switch with an integrated circuit breaker (they can simply be reset) and leave it on all the time. You can find these switches at a marine store and they hold up very well since they are designed for boat applications. I have a Flex a Lite Black Magic 15" puller behind my Griffin aluminum radiator (10 years old) and I don't have issues here in Florida.
 

taylorB

Full Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
215
Loc.
Canton, GA
Thanks! I might break down and attempt to replace the whole relay again.

Good choice! it will for sure be worth it. I wired mine up so where even if the rig is shut off the fans will keep blowing until the rad temp is down. PM me if you want any details or question on the wiring.
 

Broncorex

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2011
Messages
132
Loc.
East Tennessee
Good choice! it will for sure be worth it. I wired mine up so where even if the rig is shut off the fans will keep blowing until the rad temp is down. PM me if you want any details or question on the wiring.

Yeah, but the water pump isn't moving any water so at the most you are only cooling the water in the radiator. I just don't want to trust a stat so I removed mine. One less thing that could go wrong.
 

BRONCO_POWER

Full Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
340
Loc.
Southern Arizona
I have a manual switch on the dash of my bronco and I just turn it on when I start it. Living in Arizona its almost a must to have the fans going at all times.
 

Steve83

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 16, 2003
Messages
8,995
Loc.
Memphis, TN, USA, Earth, Milky Way
The t'stat also creates a restriction that helps reduce boiling in the engine by slightly increasing the pressure above what the cap holds.

This shows a simple circuit to control an e-fan, and there's a link in the caption to a slightly more complex (and versatile) one:

 

taylorB

Full Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
215
Loc.
Canton, GA
The t'stat also creates a restriction that helps reduce boiling in the engine by slightly increasing the pressure above what the cap holds.

This shows a simple circuit to control an e-fan, and there's a link in the caption to a slightly more complex (and versatile) one:


EEK that look confusing hahahaha. Why wouldnt you run power from the back of the ignition switch?? And it looks like for AZ yall like the manual switch, so you would just forget the thermostat and run constant power while the key is on. or keep a manual switch for the water crossings and such but even then you wouldnt need the thermostat. You could get this thing done for free!
 

motoman

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 29, 2002
Messages
1,729
Loc.
Phoenix, AZ
I too run dual 10" electric fans..... both fans are wired through a "Ford Constant Duty Solenoid (Relay)". The switch is mounted under the steering wheel on a fabbed switch panel. I do not have mine wired through thermostat.

It is great to force cooling whenever I need it... especially in AZ. Let me know if you need help and I can come over and help you wire something up! Or fix your existing wire....
 
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