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Duped 72' Gets ignition switch

nchernecke

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Oct 16, 2011
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After watching the smoke rise from the rediculous switch/push button assembly that my PO had jerry rigged (stranding me on the side of the road...again). I decided an OEM type replacement was in order. ;D

There is a wiring schematic out there for a 72' that has proven invaluable for re-attaching all the factory wiring harness connections, but it does not show which pole on the switch gets which wire. After searching a bunch of threads on this site I found this schematic for a 75-77 that does show those connections. After getting it wired up according to that schematic she starts right up!

I ordered the switch as a door / ignition set from BC Broncos that all share the same key. My only complaint is that the key does not yet spring from the "START" to "ON" position very well, so my accessories are all off until I nudge the key over to the "ON" position. I suspect that after some use the barrel will loosen up a bit. :)

Door locks went in easily, everything is working great.
 

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half cab

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I've had 2 and both did this,had to send one cylinder back.Tom's told me to keep the first one sence I had already installed the door locks(I did this first as I knew how easy it is to switch the ign.cylinder)Well they don't spring back or at least in the org bezel.They told me to keep the first one so I just changed out the tumblers from the new one to my org and all is the same key now.If you have never done this I would not do it ,but to old junk keyless cylinders to get the feel of it.Or take them to a locksmith.This could be costly though.The new ign cylinders have a rise in the rear and won't let them spring back.Or atleast in the org.slots%)
 

half cab

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Yea on a 72 should'nt that have been over to the right of the collum?
 

half cab

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If your 72 had duel fuel tanks?than that spot there where you have the ign.switch is where your fuel switch for the dash cluster gas guage should have been.
 

half cab

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Also I have noticed if thats an ashtray up there pulled out sorta then this is a dash from a 66 or 67 ? 68 on were to the right of the radio if it came w/one,radio that is.I believe this is right.
 
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nchernecke

nchernecke

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It's not an ashtray, just a gaping hole the the PO cut into the dash for a computer of some sort (way dead when I got the EB). There is not a hole in the quarter panel where the aux tank filler would be, but I have notice that there is sheet metal on the inside of the quarter panel were the aux filler neck would be. Perhaps it was eliminated in an earlier restoration.

I put this switch where the previous one was...an it appeared to have the factory notches to fit the switch, but they may have been cut in later. One of the perks of owning this Bronco is all of the little surprises I get from previous restoration attempts.
 

DirtDonk

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There are a couple of newly-minted experts in getting the ignition cylinder to cooperate with the switch. Hopefully they'll see this and chime in.
It's been described to me a couple of different ways, but I can't remember all the details and haven't done one yet.
I have a test-switch to work on though, as soon as I can get over to my friend's house.
We've used it for quite a while and it still sticks. Not a daily driver, so not constantly used, but it's been quite a few turns and still sticks in the START position.

Something about filing down the outer rings. Apparently the face plate of the cylinder binds on the chrome bezel surrounding it. Either relieve the bezel a bit, or sand down the outer surface of the key-plate.

Take a look at those two surfaces on yours and see if that's what's binding.

Good luck. Then post up a "Tech Article" here or, better yet, a YouTube fix-it video!

Paul
 

half cab

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Paul,I could tell on the rear of the first(and 2nd too) one where it was hitting on mine and did do the file(emoryboard) it helped some,but still no fix.Seems like the new ones don't go in far enuff? Then that rise up place on the new ones in the rear,you hold it up beside the org. one and you can see a difference.I've had to change tumblers in ford locks b-4 so I just had to get in the right frame of mind and switch'em out.Who's ever making these for the vendors needs to correct this because I think it is great to be able to get the kit and put an end to toting two or three keys if you've changed out doors,ing.switches etc. over the yrs.

Gene
 

DirtDonk

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I wonder if Ford still carries them? I have not had the pleasure of this issue personally, because the kit I bought years ago came straight from Ford. Think I paid 35 bucks over 20 years ago, but it worked perfectly right out of the box.
I bet by now they've let the aftermarket take over those duties though. And since we demand cheap as a primary purchase criteria, everything is made somewhere else now, where they don't know how to convert English to whatever from drawings, and don't know how to convert that information to repeatable mechanical dimensions on their machinery.

I can't list the number of things that don't seem to fit anymore. Beginning with brake shoes, pads and on to motor mounts made in India and on and on. And don't get started on the number of electrical component failures right out of the box now too!
Just had a Borg/Warner starter relay that failed on the first ride, and went up in smoke during the second start attempt!

Should we do a poll on how many people have purchased ignition cylinders and had them function properly or not?
Like over on the Cadillac Owners forum, where they are polling those with Northstar V8's with head-gasket failures, and in how many miles.
Last time I checked, the failures ran from 95 to 04 with a peak in 99/00. Some in as much as 130k miles, some in as little as 30k. Hell, I'd love to get 30k out of an ignition lock cylinder any more!
Disgusting...

On a side note, this is one of the subjects that we were going to talk to the manufacturers about at SEMA. Hopefully they were able to corner someone that could make changes for the better.

Paul
 

half cab

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I hear ya man.My org. one worked fine I was just trying to get to the one key fit all three things as my dr. side door had been replaced about 30 yrs ago when some folks took it (and I do mean took it)for a joy ride and well It had to have a replacemend dr. door and for some reason the lock was never changed out and mine was lost somehow?

I noticed that alot of the rubber seals are way off also.I wonder if one of the vendors that sell most all the EB parts were to take a frame and motor and use the parts they sell,How much would really all bolt up/fit right out of the box?

Gene
 
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nchernecke

nchernecke

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Gentlemen, sorry for not getting back sooner, i've been out a town awhile. I will check the fit of the barrel against the chrome bezel and let you know what i find.
 
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