• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

c4 goes in gear but does not disengage from Park

jonlorio

Full Member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
177
I'm finally getting to where I can drive this thing after the resto... The c4 will not disengage from park, but it will shift into gear. With the motor running, I try to shift, and it will load the engine, but will not move. The tranny dipstick is getting pressurized for some reason, also. Please tell me these are signs of some quick, simple fix...So far I've got 10 quarts in it, and the dipstick is showing a little over full. I have the oversized B&M pan as well.
 

turbotim2

____________
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Messages
1,957
Hmm, sounds like the rod from the shift arm to release the parking pall might be missing or not disengaging for some reason. To check would involve dropping the pan and maybe the valve body to see if it is functioning correctly.
 
OP
OP
J

jonlorio

Full Member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
177
would that cause pressure to build at the fill tube as well? My buddy just called. He checked the lines at the cooler and fluid is circulating in and out of the cooler. He pulled the drain plug and let out a few quarts bc the dip stick was showing a lil too much fluid. He noticed black and clutch material coming out of the tranny at the drain plug. Looks like this c4 will be coming out soon! Is it worth rebuilding this or should I just look for another c4 / or diff type auto?
 
Last edited:

turbotim2

____________
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Messages
1,957
I am not surprised about seeing clutch material, its like holding the brakes on and giving it gas, something has to slip. I am not sure it would cause the pressure build up. The park pall is totally mechanically operated but by it locking the output it may force fluid somewhere else. I would tear down your trans, it may be a routine rebuild unless you see broken parts or damage to the case.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Check to see if you get neutral on the transfer case. Maybe the transfer case has issues locking the front and rear in high and low range.
 

MooseyFate

Full Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2011
Messages
160
Loc.
Colo Spgs, CO
trans.jpg

I had similar issue. As you can see, the pin that goes into the side of the case wasnt staying in. When I would put it into park, the pin would pull out allowing "the plate" to get cock-eyed. It would then bind when trying to take it out of park.
 
OP
OP
J

jonlorio

Full Member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
177
Did it bind at the shifter? Mine will run through all of the gears at the column and at the shift lever on side of the case. The shifter never actually gets "stuck" in park, but the motor/trans acts as though it is shifting into gear, but also staying in park.
 

Perry Brady

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2010
Messages
114
Loc.
Kennesaw, GA
Drop the pan and go through the gears. You might see an easy fix. If not, the hardest part of a rebuild is taking the trans out and putting it back in. Read the instructions on the C-4 shop manual several times before opening it up and you should be fine. If you ever thought of upgrading the tranny, now's a good time. Parts for a total rebuild are around $200.00. Good luck
 
OP
OP
J

jonlorio

Full Member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
177
So after work I spent some time removing everything in order to get the trans out. I cannot for the life of me get the driver's side crossmember bolt off. The bolt is not frozen or stripped... It is dam impossible to get a wrench on the top to hold the bolt while I zap the nut from the bottom side using a battery impact, because the J-shifter is in the way BIG TIME. What trick are yall using to remove this one bolt? Everything else is off, just have to get the one crossmember bolt out, then VOILA!
 

turbotim2

____________
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Messages
1,957
Are you referring to the bolt that goes through the adapter and crossmember or the one on the frame bracket and crossmember? I almost wonder if it would be easier to remove the 8 bolts that hold the crossmember brackets on the frame and drop as one unit.
 
OP
OP
J

jonlorio

Full Member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
177
yes the bolt through the adapter under the flags of the transfer case.
 

turbotim2

____________
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Messages
1,957
I think I would try to remove the frame brackets and drop the whole assembly.
 

crustyhorse

New Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2011
Messages
1
Where did this transmission come from? You stated that you just finished resto, so you do you know the history on it? Was the truck always and auto truck? If there is still a clutch pedal and remaining components I would go manual, its more fun anyway IMO!
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
J

jonlorio

Full Member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
177
Where did this transmission come from? You stated that you just finished resto, so you do you know the history on it? Was the truck always and auto truck? If there is still a clutch pedal and remaining components I would go manual, its more fun anyway IMO!

Everyone has their own opinion... I prefer an auto in this truck for what it will be used for.

It was a manual before, and I switched to auto. The trans came from a member here who had it listed in the classifieds. Hindsight would have been to just go ahead and rebuild the tranny before installing it during my build, but I figured I would take the chance since I was told the tranny worked fine when it was taken out. I wish that I would have just rebuilt the tranny before installing, but we can't always make the right decisions the first time around. Lesson learned.
 
Top