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Stroker owners – 20 questions

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,821
I have been seeing lots of requests for stroker engine info so I thought I would try to gather a few key pieces of info into one place. I am looking for feedback for those of you who have owned and drove a stroker 351 based (393, 408, 427, etc.) or 302 based (331, 347, etc.) for at least 1 year. The “at least 1 year” is key. I want feedback on how things are going after some use, after the initial joy of first firing the engine. With that in mind, I will flag any under-age post for deletion. But do please come back after your year of use and give feedback.

1) How long have you been driving it? (sitting in the garage in a non-moving vehicle does not count, less then a year then hold off replying to this thread and answer after 1 year)
2) What stroker did you do? (crank, rods, pistons)
3) What compression ratio are you running?
4) What heads are you running?
5) What fuel are you running (regular, premium, race gas, etc.)
6) Intake and fuel delivery (carb/efi, what carb and intake or what MAF/Throttle body/intake/injector/computer) Fuel pump and tuning needed?
7) What exhaust are you running?
8) Cam?
9) Where does it make power at?
10) How high does it comfortably rev to?
11) Gas mileage (if you even check)?
12) What do you like most?
13) What don’t you like about it?
14) What would you do different? (there is always something that would be done different, must answer)
15) What issues did you encounter during the build ( rocker arms didn’t clear the valve covers, etc.)
16) What (if anything) after the engine was running did you have to go back and redo? (like Isky roller cams are made on a cast blanks and need cast distributor gears for the distributor)
17) What transmission are you using? What gearing and tires? How well matched is it?
18) What bugs did you have to work out? Do you have any left to be worked out?
19) If you put it on a dyno, what are the real numbers? (no estimates allowed) State if engine or chassis as well.
20) Any other lessens learned? Any other details that you feel are relevant to the stroker?

This should be a resource for those looking at what to look for when doing a stroker. After the first impressions have wore off and it has been used. That is why I put the requirement that you have driven it for at least a year. I want to know how it is after you have put it through its paces and got the bugs out of it. More of a “what to expect if it is built like this guide”. Add in a little of stuff learned from others mistakes so you don’t repeat them.
 

av8rds

MAhole!
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Messages
3,637
Loc.
2300 mi East of Moab
answers in red

.

1) How long have you been driving it? (sitting in the garage in a non-moving vehicle does not count, less then a year then hold off replying to this thread and answer after 1 year)

8 years give or take, mostly trails and very little road work though, oh crap dyno sheet puts it almost 10 years!!!

2) What stroker did you do? (crank, rods, pistons)

393 bored 60 over(not on purpose, didnt know the block was already 30 over. Ford 393 crank, and Eagle rods I think

3) What compression ratio are you running?

about 10:1

4) What heads are you running?

AFR 185's

5) What fuel are you running (regular, premium, race gas, etc.)

premium, but I havent tried regular after I got a new tune last year

6) Intake and fuel delivery (carb/efi, what carb and intake or what MAF/Throttle body/intake/injector/computer) Fuel pump and tuning needed?

Edelbrock performer EFI, FAST fuel injection, 65mm TB, 30lb injectors I think, 220lph in fuel cell pump but I have used others combos with no problems

7) What exhaust are you running?

Currently dual 2.5's but have had 3" single

8) Cam?

Custom Ground spec at 0.050 lift

int and ext lift 0.544
lob center 110.
int dur 218.0
ext dur 222.0


9) Where does it make power at?

off idle to 4500

10) How high does it comfortably rev to?

4500 give or take, just loses power

11) Gas mileage (if you even check)?

no clue

12) What do you like most?

450lb-ft of tq++ everywhere

13) What don’t you like about it?

would have stayed Ford Injection, more common and easier to find parts if needed(not that I have need any yet). Also the builder/tuner went out of business and got lucky finding someone local that could do FAST classic, Ford tuning guys are more readily available

14) What would you do different? (there is always something that would be done different, must answer)

given up a lil bottom end TQ for a lil more HP, just because

15) What issues did you encounter during the build ( rocker arms didn’t clear the valve covers, etc.)

builder blew a head gasket on the dyno. Never really tracked down the cause but I blame him for not checking either the true-ness of the block or heads, and I paid to fix it

16) What (if anything) after the engine was running did you have to go back and redo? (like Isky roller cams are made on a cast blanks and need cast distributor gears for the distributor)

builder picked the wrong gear for the cam, ate through two before he figured out what he did(never admitted it though). Also original builder/tuner tuned it but I always had a lil detonation(that I was told wasnt det). Got it retuned last year but a different guy. Said it was the worst/laziest tune he ever saw. Lesson dont let drag builders tune your engine, they dont care about anything but 1/4 mile

17) What transmission are you using? What gearing and tires? How well matched is it?

4L60e with about an 1800rpm stall converter, custom. Had a 2500 first at the recommendation of the TQ converter builder but the engine makes so much TQ that by the time it was really coming in the tires would just break loose, now off idle it just heads out

18) What bugs did you have to work out? Do you have any left to be worked out?

Cam problem listed above. Proper tuning listed above. oh yeah, ran hot with the old tune(Ron Davis rad) After the new tune it ran much cooler 180, started to heat up last year on the trail, might have been the IAC stuck open leaning it out, cleaned it but havent run it on the trail to confirm at this point

19) If you put it on a dyno, what are the real numbers? (no estimates allowed) State if engine or chassis as well.

See attachements but 505lb-ft of TQ and 380HP, chassis dyno was 291 on TQ and 232 on HP

20) Any other lessens learned? Any other details that you feel are relevant to the stroker?

Could have gotten by with just a 351. Was trying to make a perfect street truck and a perfect crawler at the same time. Would have built two different trucks. Won a $1000 Ford Gift Cert at an MEB event which paid for the crank and pistons, so it clouded my judgement

This should be a resource for those looking at what to look for when doing a stroker. After the first impressions have wore off and it has been used. That is why I put the requirement that you have driven it for at least a year. I want to know how it is after you have put it through its paces and got the bugs out of it. More of a “what to expect if it is built like this guide”. Add in a little of stuff learned from others mistakes so you don’t repeat them.
 

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av bronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 3, 2008
Messages
1,742
Loc.
Palmdale CA
The condensed version is my 427 stroker runs like it is supposed to and the ford/moates fi is flawless BUT theres some issues I had.
First the 4.17 stroke is NOT a bolt in deal, the stroke puts the rods really close to the cam and 99% of the rods out there will hit a roller cam.
Second problem, I wanted a roller cam and didnt want to tear my motor down & rebalance the whole mess so I took the easy(wrong) way out and got a comp cams retro roller. The retro roller is a smaller diamater cam so everything cleared but it sounds like a sloppy solid and this cam has failed people before so this is the weak point of my motor.
If I had to do it all over again I would build a 408, just that little .17 in the stroke can cause some serious problems.
 
OP
OP
Broncobowsher

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,821
The condensed version is my 427 stroker runs like it is supposed to and the ford/moates fi is flawless BUT theres some issues I had.
First the 4.17 stroke is NOT a bolt in deal, the stroke puts the rods really close to the cam and 99% of the rods out there will hit a roller cam.
Second problem, I wanted a roller cam and didnt want to tear my motor down & rebalance the whole mess so I took the easy(wrong) way out and got a comp cams retro roller. The retro roller is a smaller diamater cam so everything cleared but it sounds like a sloppy solid and this cam has failed people before so this is the weak point of my motor.
If I had to do it all over again I would build a 408, just that little .17 in the stroke can cause some serious problems.

When you get to it could you do the un-condensed version? Trying to put together a good source of info for those looking to do strokers in the future. Stuff like how much cam to run, compression ratio, how much head is needed to feed those inches. I was hoping the 20 questions would fill in most of the common question areas that keep coming up.
 

JWMcCrary

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 14, 2004
Messages
5,001
1) How long have you been driving it? (sitting in the garage in a non-moving vehicle does not count, less then a year then hold off replying to this thread and answer after 1 year)
Since the summer of 2005.

2) What stroker did you do? (crank, rods, pistons)
395 - 351W bored .040 with 3.85 crank, stock rods with arp bolts, KB pistons (KB115)

3) What compression ratio are you running?
I have no idea, needs more than 87 octane though

4) What heads are you running?
Edelbrock performer RPM Part# EDL-4260

5) What fuel are you running (regular, premium, race gas, etc.)
premium

6) Intake and fuel delivery (carb/efi, what carb and intake or what MAF/Throttle body/intake/injector/computer) Fuel pump and tuning needed?
Edelbrock performer #2181 + 1 inch spacer, Holley Terminator EFI

7) What exhaust are you running?
BC Shorties with 2 into 1 magnaflo

8) Cam?
Comp cams X4262H, part# CCA-35-239-3

9) Where does it make power at?
From about 1500 rpm up

10) How high does it comfortably rev to?
6000 rpm

11) Gas mileage (if you even check)?
are you kidding?

12) What do you like most?
power when you need it, have yet to be in a situation where lack of power was the problem

13) What don’t you like about it?
way too much money for what I use it for

14) What would you do different? (there is always something that would be done different, must answer)
Searched for different block to keep .030, EFI from the start and ignition system other than MSD

15) What issues did you encounter during the build ( rocker arms didn’t clear the valve covers, etc.)
Nothing major, I planned it out and had all parts before I started. I had to shave the lip of the drivers side valve cover to clear the firewall, later added body lift which would have made this unnecessary.

16) What (if anything) after the engine was running did you have to go back and redo? (like Isky roller cams are made on a cast blanks and need cast distributor gears for the distributor)
Nothing that I can think of

17) What transmission are you using? What gearing and tires? How well matched is it?
C4 with Transgo kit, 4.30 gearing, have gone from 33's to 35's to 37's. I think it is matched well. Revved too high for me on the HWY with 33's, 35's were about perfect, 37's work fine.

18) What bugs did you have to work out? Do you have any left to be worked out?
Lots of tinkering with the carb, thought I had overheating issues but think for the most part engine just ran hotter until broken in. On the trail in summer never gets above 200 to 210. Ron Davis radiator with pusher fan and 7 blade mechanical fan.

19) If you put it on a dyno, what are the real numbers? (no estimates allowed) State if engine or chassis as well.
No dyno

20) Any other lessens learned? Any other details that you feel are relevant to the stroker?
Make sure this is what you want. For the cost of the stroker you can do a lot of upgrades that will benefit you more on the trail.
 

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noracin

New Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2008
Messages
44
1) How long have you been driving it? (sitting in the garage in a non-moving vehicle does not count, less then a year then hold off replying to this thread and answer after 1 year)

Little over a year

2) What stroker did you do? (crank, rods, pistons)

Fordstrokers 347 with probe internals

3) What compression ratio are you running?

10.5-1

4) What heads are you running?

Edelbrock vic juniors ported

5) What fuel are you running (regular, premium, race gas, etc.)

regular

6) Intake and fuel delivery (carb/efi, what carb and intake or what MAF/Throttle body/intake/injector/computer) Fuel pump and tuning needed?

TFS track heat,75tb.83mm mass air,42#inj,rjm harness with moates QH.

7) What exhaust are you running?

1-3/4 mustang headers cut up and dual 3inch exhaust .

8) Cam?

custom

9) Where does it make power at?

1000-6600

10) How high does it comfortably rev to?

6800

11) Gas mileage (if you even check)?

nope

12) What do you like most?

throttle response is awesome!!

13) What don’t you like about it?

everybody thinks it makes 600 horsepower.

14) What would you do different? (there is always something that would be done different, must answer)

Would have used TFS heads,already had the vic jrs.

15) What issues did you encounter during the build ( rocker arms didn’t clear the valve covers, etc.)

Had to cut the baffle in the factory valve covers.

16) What (if anything) after the engine was running did you have to go back and redo? (like Isky roller cams are made on a cast blanks and need cast distributor gears for the distributor)

Nothing, thats why i had Jim build it.

17) What transmission are you using? What gearing and tires? How well matched is it?

c4 with 3800 stall,4.56,cut 38 boggers, in low range 1st gear is useless.

18) What bugs did you have to work out? Do you have any left to be worked out?

Tuner had trouble data logging it .

19) If you put it on a dyno, what are the real numbers? (no estimates allowed) State if engine or chassis as well.

nope

20) Any other lessens learned? Any other details that you feel are relevant to the stroker?

I built this for my wife, the motor is really easy to drive, ya just put it in drive and punch it . In low range there is no way to manually shift the transmission fast enough to keep up with the motor, its in drive before you know it.
Strokers need a big head,intake and headers to breath with the rite cam to make it all work together.
 
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nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,548
1) How long have you been driving it? (sitting in the garage in a non-moving vehicle does not count, less then a year then hold off replying to this thread and answer after 1 year)

2 1/2 yrs


2) What stroker did you do? (crank, rods, pistons)

Dart Iron Eagle 4 bolt main, 454 cu inch, bought rotating assembly from CHP, pm me before buying from them

3) What compression ratio are you running?

about 10.5:1

4) What heads are you running?

World Products Senior (pulled off "original" 10 yr old 393 stroker)


5) What fuel are you running (regular, premium, race gas, etc.)

Premium

6) Intake and fuel delivery

Quadrajet


7) What exhaust are you running?

Dual flowmasters with hand built headers

8) Cam?

Ford Motorsports
Will dig up spec sheet
Custom Ground spec at 0.050 lift

int and ext lift 0.
lob center
int dur
ext dur


9) Where does it make power at?

2,000 to 7,000 very rough idle up to 1,300rpm


10) How high does it comfortably rev to?

Never stops, rev limiter is set at 6K

11) Gas mileage (if you even check)?

8mpg snow bashing really hard...

12) What do you like most?

instant acceleration

13) What don’t you like about it?

Serious?? : )

14) What would you do different? (there is always something that would be done different, must answer)

Wouldn't buy from CHP, If I didn't have heads that would have been the needed upgrade

15) What issues did you encounter during the build

Several: 1) 4 bolt main caps interfere with oil pan (massaging needed) 2) this block comes pretty raw-a lot of machining to finish it off 3) Rotating assbly purchased from CHP is not what is advertised. Balancing of rotating assbly was not close, crank radiusing of journals was non-existant, journals needed "cleaning up" same issues verified with several other purchases. Machinist had to rebalance everything-turn crank, etc...

16) What (if anything) after the engine was running did you have to go back and redo? (like Isky roller cams are made on a cast blanks and need cast distributor gears for the distributor)

One of the link roller lifters broke sending metal throughout the engine...had to teardown and rehone...manufacturer sent all new lifters.

17) What transmission are you using? What gearing and tires? How well matched is it?

ZF 5spd installed in about 1993. 4.56 gears, low gearset in Dana 20

18) What bugs did you have to work out? Do you have any left to be worked out?

None, runs great, throttle response is excellent

19) If you put it on a dyno, what are the real numbers? (no estimates allowed) State if engine or chassis as well.

No dyno yet.


20) Any other lessons learned? Any other details that you feel are relevant to the stroker?

Wish we'd known then what many know now about CHP.

BTW, this 454 is in a good buddy of mine's Bronco. I've got a lot of miles (a lot of miles that I drive) on it driving and navigating. I cleared this with him since he doesn't have a computer. Still diggin up cam specs, never got them. We swapped out cams as he wanted more "lope". :) It sounds wicked and runs the same.
 
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67EB_in_619

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 6, 2003
Messages
1,868
Loc.
San Diego
I have been seeing lots of requests for stroker engine info so I thought I would try to gather a few key pieces of info into one place. I am looking for feedback for those of you who have owned and drove a stroker 351 based (393, 408, 427, etc.) or 302 based (331, 347, etc.) for at least 1 year. The “at least 1 year” is key. I want feedback on how things are going after some use, after the initial joy of first firing the engine. With that in mind, I will flag any under-age post for deletion. But do please come back after your year of use and give feedback.

1) How long have you been driving it? (sitting in the garage in a non-moving vehicle does not count, less then a year then hold off replying to this thread and answer after 1 year)
~2yrs
2) What stroker did you do? (crank, rods, pistons)
393 crank/pistons
3) What compression ratio are you running?
~9.5:1
4) What heads are you running?
Edlebrock RPM alum - ported/polished
5) What fuel are you running (regular, premium, race gas, etc.)
Will run cheap.. multi position chip to allow for cheap or expensive
6) Intake and fuel delivery (carb/efi, what carb and intake or what MAF/Throttle body/intake/injector/computer) Fuel pump and tuning needed?
Ford EFI, Custom tune, 75mm aftermarket intake w/ported GT40 upper and lightning lower.. 35# injectors.. fuel pump is from parts store (found something that flowed enough based on injectors and RPM redline)
7) What exhaust are you running?
dual 2.5 into single 3
8) Cam?
Howards grind:
Cam Spec:
Intake Lobe Center 110*
Exhaust Lobe Center 110*
Valve Lift Intake 520
Valve Lift Exhaust 528
Intake Duration 270
Exhaust Duration 278

@ 50:
Intake Duration 218
Exhaust Duration 226

9) Where does it make power at?
1200- 5200 ish
10) How high does it comfortably rev to?
5500
11) Gas mileage (if you even check)?
dont check.. but can wheel for most of a day on just about 10gallons
12) What do you like most?
lots of torque - ear to ear grin when I whomp on it
13) What don’t you like about it?
lots of torque - breaks things when I whomp on it
14) What would you do different? (there is always something that would be done different, must answer)
Think I have a bit of a lazy tune.. should have researched and not pinched pennies on this part... also, a 302 built to be torque'y is good.. but the same rules dont apply when you add 25% more displacement. I would trade some torque for HP or redline for more fun on the street.

If I had to do it all over again, I think I would save a $h!tload of money and just put some really nice heads on a 302 or maybe just a propane kit and call it done.

15) What issues did you encounter during the build ( rocker arms didn’t clear the valve covers, etc.)
MAF wasnt calibrated right.. pinged really bad.. busted a ring landing on the KB piston and cracked the block (resulted in upgrade to roller block!)
16) What (if anything) after the engine was running did you have to go back and redo? (like Isky roller cams are made on a cast blanks and need cast distributor gears for the distributor)
Nothing to the motor other than rebuild the block (see #16) .. but I had to replace about a dozen ujoints before I added a wrap trap to control the torque, a one piece input shaft for the AOD because I busted the two piece on a 1st-2nd shift, weld the front axle tubes after they spun in the pumpkin (dont get me started on the shift lever damage that caused)... ill stop here and refer you back to question #13
17) What transmission are you using? What gearing and tires? How well matched is it?
AOD (w/lower 1st gear), 4:88 and 35" ... matched pretty well... i like it

18) What bugs did you have to work out? Do you have any left to be worked out?
Typical EFI tuning stuff. Runs great now.
19) If you put it on a dyno, what are the real numbers? (no estimates allowed) State if engine or chassis as well.
On a Mustang Dyno (not dynojet) it put out just under 300HP and just under 380#T..
20) Any other lessens learned? Any other details that you feel are relevant to the stroker?
Broncos arent race cars... a box lifted on squishy suspension isnt any safer with a big motor... plus.. more power just finds new weak points!

This should be a resource for those looking at what to look for when doing a stroker. After the first impressions have wore off and it has been used. That is why I put the requirement that you have driven it for at least a year. I want to know how it is after you have put it through its paces and got the bugs out of it. More of a “what to expect if it is built like this guide”. Add in a little of stuff learned from others mistakes so you don’t repeat them.
 

Mr Rags

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
472
OK, I'LL PLAY

1) How long have you been driving it?
ABOUT A YEAR
2) What stroker did you do?
408 EAGLE PARTS
3) What compression ratio are you running?
9.75:1
4) What heads are you running?
PRO COMP 190
5) What fuel are you running?
REGULAR
6) Intake and fuel delivery?
PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS HURRICANE
6a)Fuel pump and tuning needed?
PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS POWERJECTION III (STILL TUNING)
7) What exhaust are you running?
BCB SHORTY HEADERS 2.5 DUALS INTO 3" FLOWMASTER SUPER 44
8) Cam?
COMP CUSTOM ROLLER
.565 LIFT
227 INT@.50
232 EXH @.50
112 LOBE SEPERATION
109 CENTERLINE

9) Where does it make power at?
IDLE TO ABOUT 6K
10) How high does it comfortably rev to?
IT STARTS FALLING OFF ABOUT 5800 BUT HAD GONE TO 6500
11) Gas mileage (if you even check)?
NOPE
12) What do you like most?
POWER EVERYWHERE AND ANYWHERE
13) What don’t you like about it?
NOTHING YET
14) What would you do different?
JURY IS STILL OUT, BUT I MIGHT HAVE GONE FORD EFI
15) What issues did you encounter during the build?
JUST TUNING THE EFI, AND HAD TO NOTCH THE POWER BRAKE BOOSTER BRACKET TO CLEAR THE VALVE COVER.
16) What (if anything) after the engine was running did you have to go back and redo?
I HAD TO ADJUST THE ROCKER ARMS
17) What transmission are you using? C4 W/ HUGHS 2500 STALL
What gearing and tires? 33" BFG ALL-TERRAIN
How well matched is it? NEEDS AN OVERDRIVE OR 35s
18) What bugs did you have to work out? Do you have any left to be worked out?
JUST TUNING
19) If you put it on a dyno, what are the real numbers? (no estimates allowed) State if engine or chassis as well.
TOOK IT TO ARIZONA DYNO CHIP FOR THE ACB DYNO DAYS. 283HP, 336TQ AT THE REAR TIRES. HAD TO SHUT DOWN EARLY THOUGH. THE TIRES WERE DOING 120MPH. LITTLE SCARY.MAX TORQUE AT 3700
20) Any other lessens learned? Any other details that you feel are relevant to the stroker? YOU DONT NEED TO BUILD A STROKER FOR TORQUE, ITS BUILT IN. AS I SEE OTHERS HAVE FOUND.

When I get the tuning solved I will hook up the 100hp shot of NOS that is on it and really have fun! I don't know if I would ever build a 302 again. Love my Stroker.
 

bmc69

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Messages
11,849
The 408 in my '69 is turning 10 years old next year. Have never even had a valve cover off of it. Might change the plugs eventually...

:p
 

eastbaybronco

Full Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2013
Messages
161
Loc.
San Clemente CA
1) How long have you been driving it? (sitting in the garage in a non-moving vehicle does not count, less then a year then hold off replying to this thread and answer after 1 year)
one year
2) What stroker did you do? (crank, rods, pistons)
347 .60 over bore
3) What compression ratio are you running?
have no idea
4) What heads are you running?
Ford Lightning Iron Heads
5) What fuel are you running (regular, premium, race gas, etc.)
Regular
6) Intake and fuel delivery (carb/efi, what carb and intake or what MAF/Throttle body/intake/injector/computer) Fuel pump and tuning needed?
GT40 Upper and Lower from Ford Explorer, 19#, T4M0
7) What exhaust are you running?
Stainless Dual
8) Cam?
Custom Ground Crowler Rolling Cam
9) Where does it make power at?
900-5500
10) How high does it comfortably rev to?
6000
11) Gas mileage (if you even check)?
how do i do that?
12) What do you like most?
that people in fancy cars think they can cut me off after a light, and then eventually just fall back behind me:)
13) What don’t you like about it?
?
14) What would you do different? (there is always something that would be done different, must answer)
i would have bought a man o war block or the ford boss block
15) What issues did you encounter during the build ( rocker arms didn’t clear the valve covers, etc.)
had to remove the baffles, doesnt matter anyways cause its a closed system, EFI
16) What (if anything) after the engine was running did you have to go back and redo? (like Isky roller cams are made on a cast blanks and need cast distributor gears for the distributor)
nothing
17) What transmission are you using? What gearing and tires? How well matched is it?
nv3550, 4.56, 35"
18) What bugs did you have to work out? Do you have any left to be worked out?
Senors, Connectors,Wiring, Tuning
Tourque Monster!
If i had an endless budget i would get the 351 Aluminum Block and stroke it to a 408 , all Aluminum. But i stayed with the Iron Block,Lightning Iron Heads and 19# injectors for a 351 on a 347 for Tourque, Crane Cobra Rockers w/Crowler Roller Ca, Forged pistons, GT40 intake w/Explorer Aluminum Front Accessory Setup... its tough as nails and gives me the low end tourque i want.
 

baddad457

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
Messages
560
I have been seeing lots of requests for stroker engine info so I thought I would try to gather a few key pieces of info into one place. I am looking for feedback for those of you who have owned and drove a stroker 351 based (393, 408, 427, etc.) or 302 based (331, 347, etc.) for at least 1 year. The “at least 1 year” is key. I want feedback on how things are going after some use, after the initial joy of first firing the engine. With that in mind, I will flag any under-age post for deletion. But do please come back after your year of use and give feedback.

1) How long have you been driving it? (sitting in the garage in a non-moving vehicle does not count, less then a year then hold off replying to this thread and answer after 1 year)NINE YEARS NOW
2) What stroker did you do? (crank, rods, pistons)331
3) What compression ratio are you running?10.4 to 1
4) What heads are you running?CANFIELDS
5) What fuel are you running (regular, premium, race gas, etc.) 93 OCTANE
6) Intake and fuel delivery (carb/efi, what carb and intake or what MAF/Throttle body/intake/injector/computer) Fuel pump and tuning needed?REPOP FORD TRI-POWER W/THREE 250 CFM HOLLEYS
7) What exhaust are you running? DUALS
8) Cam? FORD RACING Z303
9) Where does it make power at? 1500-6500
10) How high does it comfortably rev to? 7000
11) Gas mileage (if you even check)? 18 MPG IN AN 89 RANGER
12) What do you like most?WHAT'S NOT TO LIKE ?
13) What don’t you like about it? NOTHING
14) What would you do different? (there is always something that would be done different, must answer)NOTHING
15) What issues did you encounter during the build ( rocker arms didn’t clear the valve covers, etc.) NO ISSUES
16) What (if anything) after the engine was running did you have to go back and redo? (like Isky roller cams are made on a cast blanks and need cast distributor gears for the distributor) NO CHANGES NEEDED
17) What transmission are you using? What gearing and tires? How well matched is it? IN THE RANGER, TOPLOADER 4 SPEED, 8.8 W/3.73 GEARS, 28 " TIRES
18) What bugs did you have to work out? NO BUGS
19) If you put it on a dyno, what are the real numbers? (no estimates allowed) State if engine or chassis as well.
20) Any other lessens learned? Any other details that you feel are relevant to the stroker?

This should be a resource for those looking at what to look for when doing a stroker. After the first impressions have wore off and it has been used. That is why I put the requirement that you have driven it for at least a year. I want to know how it is after you have put it through its paces and got the bugs out of it. More of a “what to expect if it is built like this guide”. Add in a little of stuff learned from others mistakes so you don’t repeat them.

There are no drawbacks to doing a stroker
 
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Broncobowsher

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,821
The 408 in my '69 is turning 10 years old next year. Have never even had a valve cover off of it. Might change the plugs eventually...

:p

How about answering the 20 questions then? That really is the point of this thread.
 

addicted

Bronco Guru
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Jun 7, 2009
Messages
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That's good to know about CHP. I was under the impression that they were one of the top stroker companies. Anybody have an opinion on D.S.S? Im probably not going stroker since I already have a new standard Scat crank and standard length Eagle rods but I was considering getting a Level 20 roller 351 block from them.
 

latrucker

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2010
Messages
614
That's good to know about CHP. I was under the impression that they were one of the top stroker companies. Anybody have an opinion on D.S.S? Im probably not going stroker since I already have a new standard Scat crank and standard length Eagle rods but I was considering getting a Level 20 roller 351 block from them.
Heard lots of horror stories about D.S.S. Np personal exp just talk. Keith Craft performance out of Arkansas did my stroker short block and I have 0 complaints. They are true FORD people. Check em out.
 
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