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Need some advice and help. Pictures. KINDA LONG

slowstroke

Full Member
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
271
Loc.
North Las Vegas
Really would like some opinions before pulling the trigger. Trying to get a price to offer for it. I looked at a 75 this afternoon. It going to be my first EB. The truck is a 75 uncut. it has what appears to be the original 302 and an automatic trans on the tree. Is a 4x4 all components are there. the owner has a hard top and a half cab to go with the truck. all the chrome is off the truck but in pretty good shape and is all there from what i could tell. The glass is in great condition. The truck is a new mexico/nevada vehicle.

It has a body lift on it so i was able to inspect all around the frame and theres no rust. There is a tiny bit of rust in the engine bay passenger side near the firewall and the front floor pans have been replaced(very terribly might i say!) trans tunnel is original color and in great shape.. the bed, frame etc are all in great shape. The tailgate isn't original as its a different color but the other panels, doors, are all factory green. Glovebox vin matches door vin. the roof has absolutely zero rust on it. The truck doesn't run ( the gas tanks,battery and radiator are off the truck) but the owner said the motor does run and the trans shifts through all gears. Has front 2 seats in terrible condition no rear.


Im am trying to identify what differential is in the truck. i pulled a tag off the transfer case and the front diff as well. would anyone be able to help identify. What would you offer????



Vin Tag reads

U15GLV64926

WB COLOR TYPE BODY TRANS AXLE
092 8 U153 34 G 18J



Front Differential tag read( bear with me there was alot of grime)

i think it said

3.54 or 3.55 D4TA ACA

picture of the front and rear diff are below.

Front pumpkin side view shown from driver side towards passneger
df05088e.jpg


Rear pumpkin front driveshaft side
47d43923.jpg


Rear diff Rear

534fa3b9.jpg




transfer case tag reads
30077E-IS
D3TA-&A195 CC
1553bd08.jpg




Here is the truck
0784157b.jpg


Exterior

06e122d8.jpg


Little surface rust some spots on the gate area are sanded down to metal also a llittle damage on the rear driver side lower

ee835947.jpg


Bed area No rust through just a tiny bit of surface stuff. scratched off with my key.

4486a3e4.jpg


9bf5c948.jpg


f728a3f4.jpg

Engine bay

533cf34e.jpg

Patch panel no other rust seen around the area
bc5dd498.jpg


Fenderwells

4a4b1542.jpg

33b61858.jpg

c550a523.jpg


interior


29c89e6f.jpg

c3615668.jpg

06dfed79.jpg
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
D44 front axle ford 9in rear both open diffs not sure on the rear axle rating but its probably a medium duty axle meaning big bearings but small brakes.. Transfer case is a D20 U153 is for the 4500 lb GVW rating.
Hard to really say what I'd offer as I'm cheap but it appears complete. And the sheetmetal work that has been done appears to be ok. I would want to hear the engine run at least but I would probably offer up to about $2500 having a half cab top in the deal might make me go a little higher but not much. but like I said I like things cheap
 

NicksTrix

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 1, 2001
Messages
6,386
looks like a good builder to start with. any extra parts are always good.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,322
Actually U153 is the 4450 lb GVWR. The rear seat was required with it. 18 is the small bearing rear axle with 3.50 gears and an open diff. J is for power steering. Open diff up front too.
 

thesnake

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 20, 2001
Messages
3,503
I'd easily go 3500 on it. I've seen a "restored" 77 that the owner was looking for 12K for it. It was nice looking, however when I looked closer, they used spray foam to fix the passenger side floor that was rusted out where it is creased at the firewall bend, then sprayed it with paint. Other things like that were throughout the body.

This looks like a good starting point for you.
 

01JLH

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
392
If that truck was around here, you wouldn't get much time to think about it because it would be bought by someone else. That is a very good starting point whether or not the motor runs. The tanks being out just gives you the opportunity to look better at the underside of the body and to clean it all real good and paint or under coat it before replacing them.
 

tejayandtina

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2004
Messages
589
Since it's somewhat apart you have to expect to re-do or at least check on any previous work that was started. Not running is a risk but a manageable one if you plan on taking it apart anyway. Count on finding some rust you can't see now when you take things apart. All things considered, it's a great starting point. I'd start at $2000 and go no higher than $2500-$2750 due to the truck not able to run and drive. Good luck there.
 

tasker

Contributor
all knowing of nothing
Joined
Jun 2, 2006
Messages
20,762
Loc.
NH
2500 if that body is clean as it looks....stainless door hinges? somebody either ran out of time or money on this one..
 

bmc69

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Messages
11,855
As scarce as EBs that solid are around here, it would go over 3000 for sure. Running or not running has almost no effect on the value of a project truck like that one but the amount of rust (or lack of it) sure as heck does. I'd kill to get my hands on a body that clean!;)
 

tasker

Contributor
all knowing of nothing
Joined
Jun 2, 2006
Messages
20,762
Loc.
NH
stand in line....but the island queen might get jealous with another one in the stable....
 

kaw550

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
1,134
Is that switch for plow lights on the dash? Hard to believe something with such little rust spent time plowing snow.
 

bmc69

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Messages
11,855
stand in line....but the island queen might get jealous with another one in the stable....

The Island Queen is an example of the opposite extreme in EB body condition; mostly bondo, aluminum flashing, furnace tape and drywall screen..very little metal.

:p
 

Tito

CB Fire Starter
Joined
Jan 29, 2006
Messages
10,781
Loc.
Bakersfield, CA
The Island Queen is an example of the opposite extreme in EB body condition; mostly bondo, aluminum flashing, furnace tape and drywall screen..very little metal.

:p

He's going for rust free though right? Lol

Looks like a solid project. Start at 2 and go to 3 on it. Solid body means a lot. Drive train is easy to put together for these. If a project is what you are looking for then nothing wrong with a non runner, you'd probably want to go through that stuff anyways an makes for a better start to stripping it down ;-)
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Is that switch for plow lights on the dash? Hard to believe something with such little rust spent time plowing snow.

Kinda looks like a lot of body panels have already been replaced. I'd say at least front inner fenders, kick panels lower inner and outer rockers, floor pans, door posts and possibly the quarter panels. hard to tell in the pics though. Along with a talgate.
 

TwoDalesDad

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
1,515
It looks to me like a diamond in the ruff...I would be paying WHATEVER THEY ASK...if you don't it will be LOOONG GONE....by the time you squeek another $500 from your wallett....If you don't there are Hundreds looking and ready to SNAP.
 
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