...I do have a question though, how do I know which coil to get? On amazon I see a few choices for flamethrower II's.
0.6ohm
1.5ohm
3.0ohm
How do I know which coil I need to get?
Might give them a call Chris. Just to make sure.
Otherwise, for a Flamethrower I series, get the 3.0 Ohm for your 6-cylinder. With that type, you can use it with an Ignitor I, or points if you get in a pickle and have to go back to points for a bit.
Number 40511 black oil filled, or 40611 black epoxy filled if you go this route.
For Ignitor II systems, they recommend their much lower .6 ohm Flamethrower II coils for best results on both 6 and 8 cylinder engines.
Probably should not use points with these though, if you eliminate the resistor. Where's Phil?
Numbers 45011 and 45111 black oil and epoxy respectively.
I'm thinking that the higher resistance coil can be used with or without a resistor wire. It just seems to me that the higher the primary resistance in a coil, the less important a resistor wire becomes.
However, this is a perfect discussion for Viperwolf, so hopefully he'll chime in at some point. He usually recommends a resistor inline with most coils, but maybe he can explain the reasons.
Here are a few basics about the Pertronix Ignitors in general.
1. As already mentioned, you can use the stock coils.
Ford coils happen to be very good, but if original, they're also pretty old and coils do wear out. A new Flamethrower might improve things, or it might not, depending on the condition of your old coil and wiring. But it usually won't hurt either
And that way you can keep your old "known-good" coil as a trail spare.
2. Flamethrower coils are also available in an "epoxy filled" version that is more heat and vibration resistant than standard oil filled coils are. They're the same canister style, but more robust internally. Might be a good upgrade for trucks that see more off-road action, if you do ever decide to change out the stock one.
Regarding heat generation though, when you get to the ultra-low .32 ohm resistance coils (less internal heat?) that are recommended only for the Ignitor III system, they don't offer the epoxy version. Not sure why, but I find that interesting. Doesn't need it maybe? Doesn't work with that type of winding/wire? Dunno.
2. The Ignitor module's Red wire
ALWAYS connect to the full 12v. Whether you have a resistor for the coil or not. So with a resistor, you need a separate circuit for the module than the one for the coil.
They can work on reduced voltage to a point, but search enough threads on the subject, and you'll find that they only "work" when hooked up that way for some people. With others that have tried it, the ignition only worked intermittently, if at all.
2a. The ignition coil however, might still need reduced voltage. Depends on the individual coil being used.
3b. Pertronix's instructions make this point clear, but the drawing is misleading and might make you think it's ok to hook them up to the same source as your coil.
This is true
ONLY if your coil positive wire is receiving the full 12 volts of a non-resistor circuit.
4. Replacement modules can be purchased without the rest of the kit, for a little less money. To order a module only, use your original part number, then add an "-X" to the end.
This will get you the module, minus all the other parts like the plate. This might be needed when you want a spare, or when a replacement is required.
There's probably more similar pertinent info as well, but those are the things that seem to come up most often.
Paul