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Another brake question

Greg_B

Bronco Guru
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Apr 15, 2010
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After reading some of the other brake related questions I decided to take a look at my own fluid level yesterday. Popped the cap off and the fluid did look a little low but more notable was the fluid in the front or small resevoir looks like it has rust in it. The back was clear and clean looking.

Looks like I will be draining everything and looking for the cause.... I am going to guess the wheel cylinders?

Anyone have any thoughts on this or direction I should look?

My booster is still the original 1976... What is the life of these things? 36 years old right now.... I would like to leave this alone until after Super Celebration and then replace all the brakes stuff... Booster, lines, pads, shoes... I drove it to work today and it seems to stop fine. But...

Greg
 

brian72

Early Bronco Student
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Jun 18, 2001
Messages
4,157
Just bleed out old fluid and back fill with clean...watch it to see if discolor comes back.
 
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Greg_B

Greg_B

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If I remember correctly... Do you not bleed from the furtherest wheel to the closest wheel? It has been a long time.
 

Apogee

Contributor
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Yes, bleed furthest to closest. As for the corrosion, brake fluid is hygroscopic (attracts water), so you should flush your brakes every two years under the best of conditions so that you maintain "dry" brake fluid. Not only will it perform better with a higher boiling point, but it will reduce corrosion in the system and maintain better lubricity for the seals and other moving components.
 
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Greg_B

Greg_B

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That must be why the BMW dealership want to flush my wifes cars brake fluid every year for like $700 bucks... Those guys are crazy...

I will have to admit... I doubt I have touched my brake system in 6 years or more.

**edit** I just looked at the reciept for the MS I installed... it was over ten years ago last time I did anything to the brakes... shame on me...

Greg
 

Apogee

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You good sir are not alone...but a quick bleed every year or two will do wonders for your brake system components, especially in a humid environment like GA. Plus, brakes are somewhat important and should get an "eyes on" every so often, just like any other critical system on your vehicle. Things like rubber brake hoses and such don't last forever, even if they just sit most of the time. Waiting for your brake system to fail is about as safe as waiting for your steering to fail catastrophically, it just doesn't tend to work out well for anyone.
 

garberz

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It's tough to get out of the BMW deal for under 1K for any routine service. But with ABS brakes, they require more frequent fluid changes than our simple systems. I love my low tech Bronco.;)
 

brian72

Early Bronco Student
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Jun 18, 2001
Messages
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Order to bleed... Pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front
 

ObscureMachine

Seatbelt Orifice Officer
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World Headquarters
Obvious Thought: never put "bled" brake fluid back in the MC. Even if it is coming out clear and looks like the new stuff. Only put new fluid in the MC. And because brake fluid is hygroscopic, you should never fluid from a bottle that's been opened, but sitting around for a long time, especially if you live in a humid place.
 
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Greg_B

Greg_B

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Another question on this...

What would be the best way to flush the system out? I was trying to think through the bestway to do this... would you start at the closest wheel and go the other way?

Greg
 

Apogee

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You could...but I usually just bleed the brakes in the normal sequence until I get clean fluid at each caliper and then bleed a little more. In track applications, I'll run two different colors of fluid (ATE Super Blue/Amber) to make the visual distinction between new and old fluid obvious, however it sounds like you won't have any trouble discerning the new from the old fluid given it's age.
 

Bundy

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Jan 10, 2009
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2,045
I bought the Mityvac Vacuum Bleeder and that thing is the shit! It was expensive but you just vacuum out the bad fluid from the MC and refill it with new. Then you hit each bleeder and let it vacuum till you like the fluid coming out.

It turned brake fluid replacement and bleeding into a one man 10 minute job and that is just because I'm slow.
 

Jeff76

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Dec 23, 2011
Messages
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Loc.
Alpharetta GA
Another question on this...

What would be the best way to flush the system out? I was trying to think through the bestway to do this... would you start at the closest wheel and go the other way?

Greg

Flush just like a bleed. RR, LR, RF, LF.

This is the best way. Fill it up with Fluid, pressurize it to 15-20psi, and pump the fluid through the system in the correct bleed order. This thing makes it easy because the tank is a resevoir of fresh fluid. Can also check for leaks prior to filling it with fluid by applying pressure and letting it sit for a few minutes, then verify the pressure is maintained.

www.motiveproducts.com
 

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Jeff76

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Dec 23, 2011
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Alpharetta GA
I bought the Mityvac Vacuum Bleeder and that thing is the shit! It was expensive but you just vacuum out the bad fluid from the MC and refill it with new. Then you hit each bleeder and let it vacuum till you like the fluid coming out.

It turned brake fluid replacement and bleeding into a one man 10 minute job and that is just because I'm slow.

The motive products one I mentioned above 'pushes' fresh fluid through the MC (no need to refill), rather than pulls it from the MC resevoir at the wheel. Which way does this one work?
 

Bundy

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Jan 10, 2009
Messages
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The mityvac is suction from the bleeders... and also you can suction out the MC. It just hooks right up to the compressor. It took about 20-30 seconds to hit each wheel.

Either way, push or pull, it's nice to have a good tool when bleeding. The two man pump and hold sucks cause you gotta coax the buddy over with promises of beer and food ;D
 

GrillMaster

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Jun 5, 2008
Messages
2,484
It's tough to get out of the BMW deal for under 1K for any routine service. But with ABS brakes, they require more frequent fluid changes than our simple systems. I love my low tech Bronco.;)

AAA had to have a specialist out to get in my BMW when the battery died and doors locked shut. Apparently it’s a "high security" car. I got tired of waiting and sent a skinny guy through the hole in the trunk lol! I will take a simple old ford any day over an over engineered BMW. But they are nice to drive.
 

BG's 68 Bronco

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Nov 16, 2005
Messages
866
Order to bleed... Pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front

This is how I have always bled brakes, but I was watching an automotive program the other day and the guy started bleeding with the drivers rear then passenger front then passenger rear and finished up with the drivers front?:?:p Have we all been bleeding brakes the wrong way, or was this guy out to lunch??
 

Jeff76

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Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
638
Loc.
Alpharetta GA
This is how I have always bled brakes, but I was watching an automotive program the other day and the guy started bleeding with the drivers rear then passenger front then passenger rear and finished up with the drivers front?:?:p Have we all been bleeding brakes the wrong way, or was this guy out to lunch??

The rule is longest line to shortest line, so this can vary on specific models.
 

Apogee

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A lot of modern front wheel drive, traction/stabilization control vehicles use different plumbing configurations from our old-school rigs, so once you get out of the 60's, 70's, 80's and most of the 90's , you can no longer really assume that the front brakes are one circuit and the rears another.
 

bronco t

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San Diego CA
I use the mighty vac to bleed my brakes, 1) one man job, 2) wife wont follow pump three times and hold requests. I like to empty the MC using wife's turkey baster (she hates it) and then refill with new fluid before bleeding. This way new fluid is entering the system from the get go.
 
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