Vaccum bleeding 76 Bronco

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...m-pump-kit/_/N-25j2?itemIdentifier=70116_0_0_

Is there anything I need to do with the proportioning valve before I hook my vacuum bleeder to my calipers/cylinder bleeder screw and start sucking fluid?

Do these proportioning valves stop up if the vehicle was parked for 15 years? I have replaced all of the hard and soft lines, wheel cylinders, calipers, and master cylinder, but not the proportioning valve.

I've got a couple of '76s and the stock valves work fine on both. I think its possible there could be some leakage that might occur, but I don't think they will stop up unless you have a problem with debris in the Master Cylinder reservoir.

I did recently replace the entire brake system on one of the Broncos, and I used an aftermarket new one from either JBG or Tom's. Can't remember which, but they are all the same vendor, I believe. It works fine.

Its possible you will have to push or pull the pin on the front of the prop valve to allow bleeding of the rear brakes. The original and aftermarkets are opposite, as the aftermarket versions are fashioned after the Chevy versions. Do it once, and no worries.

Finally, I've used several pressure bleeders, but I can't say enough good things about the one in the photo. Motive Products. It has a tank and you attach it to the top of the MC. It applies pressure to push fluid from its own tank through the system. That means fresh fluid and no empty MC reservoirs which can put air in the system. Also, prior to bleeding, you can pump up this system to test for any leaks with the pressure gauge. Others will tell you about their favorite Bleeder, but trust me, this one, at least this type, is superior. It makes bleeding a snap!

My two cents, anyway. Good luck!

Jeff

So sometimes you have to mess with the pin, and other times they will bleed no problem?

rjrobin2002 said:

So sometimes you have to mess with the pin, and other times they will bleed no problem?

Click to expand...

All the valve does is limit the fluid flow to the rears so they don't lock up, since you have disks in the front. The pin just releases the valve, so the fluid will flow and you can bleed the system. I think the originals is pulled, and the aftermarket / chevy is pushed. Get a flashlight and look at it, and you'll know which yours needs. No big deal, just do it once and you should not have a problem.

The picture is the aftermarket / Chevy valve, and if you look at it, you can see that it is released when pushed. If yours is a stock Ford, you will have to pull the pin.

Then just bleed as normal. Hope that helps!

Jeff