• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

351 question. Which one????

TRABY

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2011
Messages
128
Loc.
Little Rock Arkansas
My 73 Bronco build is in it's beginning stages and I'm gonna run 1 ton axles and a 351w and I need to know what is the best to start with, early or late model? I'm gonna run a carb and big tires with a C6 trans. There are a couple later big broncos in the salvage yard locally and I just need some input from one or more of the motor guru's to get me going in the right direction??? Thanks to all that respond.
 

BroncoKelley

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
131
Loc.
Billings, Montana
I know 82 or 83 and later blocks have the one piece rear main seal and 94 or 95 and later blocks have roller lifters. I'm having one built as I write this. It is a 40 over 83 block with truck rods and a 272 duration/484 lift rv torque cam. I am also using the GT-40P heads with a 670 Holley truck avenger carb. I would have liked to find a later roller block, but the price on this one was right.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,833
Best 351s are the newer ones that are still virgin (no overbore)
First pick is the 1-piece rear main seal.
Second is I prefer the roller cam, but it does take a little more care to get a distributor with the correct gear.
 

75junebug

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2008
Messages
587
Loc.
NW Houston Tx
Find a 351 out of a 93-95 xlt van. Sometimes, these vehicles were not beat on until later in life, but the engines are generally still in good shape. Easy enough to change over to carb, and they have the rear sump pan. Some are roller cam, some are
 
OP
OP
T

TRABY

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2011
Messages
128
Loc.
Little Rock Arkansas
Stroke

Should I buy a stroker kit, it would seem to me that if I'm gonna buy a new rotating assembly, I should go bigger??? I obviously don't want a high rpm motor, just one with lots of grunt? Anybody got a good recipe???
 

ScottC

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2010
Messages
126
Loc.
Roanoke
I got mine out of a '96 E350 van. It was a church van with 100k miles on it and the engine was almost immaculate. Roller block, one piece main seal, rear sump. I went ahead and had it machined and balanced, and was able to get by with only 0.020 over on the cylinders, so there should be enough life left in this block for two more rebuilds.

I'm not using any of the original intake or EFI stuff...instead installing tubular GT40 intake, forged SRP pistons, aluminum heads, Comp cam, and Mustang computer. Desktop dyno says she'll be good for about 325hp and 430ft-lb. ;D
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,833
Should I buy a stroker kit, it would seem to me that if I'm gonna buy a new rotating assembly, I should go bigger??? I obviously don't want a high rpm motor, just one with lots of grunt? Anybody got a good recipe???

Depends on your desires and budget. Probably a lot more on the budget.
I like the 408 kits, I am a fan of long rods. But if budget rules (and you find a bad crank) the 3.85" stroker crank with 351 rods and 302 pistons is a dirt cheap stroker, often cheaper then getting the stock crank reworked.

If you are not going to be reving it you can save money because you won't need the forged crank, H-beam rods, or the preimum pistons. But I would still recomend a set of aluminum heads even for low RPM work. The stock heads are anemic on a 302, much less an engine a third larger.
 

ScottC

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2010
Messages
126
Loc.
Roanoke
I ordered a motor from Promar for $4k. ready to drop in and go. 325hp

Smokin deal! I bought a salvage yard complete engine for $700, put $2200 into machine work and pistons, another $600 in machine work after a year of sitting in storage to clean up some journal rust, and $500 in intake. I don't have heads or cam yet (another $1600). I'll be into it for $5600 on the big bones, and I'm sure another $1000 in MAF, TB, wires, and serp parts. %)
 

Kauai72Bronco

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Messages
82
I believe it. Was going to build it from scratch but once you start looking at everything it adds up quick. These guys will custom spec a motor to fit your budget. They also paint the motor whatever color you want it. Check em out and ask for Al.

Erik
 

Lmfp

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 28, 2011
Messages
1,496
Loc.
Lake Charles, LA
Yeah when you add it up your almost as good price wise just getting a crate motor. Thats what i did with my 351. Unfortunately mines on hold till around christmas time... Back to school and no money for a new carb... %)
 
Top