View Full Version : 351W Serpentine Upgrade - Finished


70EB
03/19/06, 03:08 PM
I want to thank all the folks that answered about a million questions that I had during this upgrade. I finally finished it today and now I am just waiting on my RJM EFI harness and I might be on the road shortly.

I wanted to put some pics together and share some of the bumps in the road that I had with my particular application.

What I started with:

Ford Motorsports 351W crate motor (M-6007-S58) that I had setup with carb. Started my SEFI swap and Serp swap at about the same time.

JBG Aluminum 4 core radiator (Howe) with AT cooler.

What I bought:

Serpentine brackets/pulleys from a 1993 Mustang 5.0
A/C eliminator bracket for 351W.
Ford Water pump for Mustang (reverse rotation with DS inlet)
BC Broncos 17" Derale fixed blade fan (CCW)
1/2" Fan spacer

How it all went together:

Serpentine brackets were a direct swap and bolted right up to the waterpump and heads. Pulleys bolted right up. I swapped my V-belt PS pulley for the Mustang (I am running a late model Ford PS Pump). All the brackets and pulleys lined up with no spacers required. I also upgraded to a 160 amp 3G from RJM (can't beat his price) at the same time. You have to notched the alternator bracket slightly to allow the 3G to fit (see pick). A 1/2" fan spacer is plenty to keep the fan out of the belt (might be different with a flex fan). With my setup (PS, Alt, WP, Crank, A/C eliminator, no smog pump) I needed a 77.5" belt (Dayco 5060775).

You have to notch the stock fan shroud around the tensioner pulley arm slightly (about 1/2 - 3/4 inch).

The main issue that I ran into with the upgrade was due to my aftermarket aluminum radiator (you will probably not have these issues with a stock radiator). Since mine was about 4" thick, the fan ran way to close to the radiator at the bottom. I put a BCB fan guard on the radiator and the fan hit the guard. The solution was to cut the bottom mounting bracket to slide it back about 3/4 inch. I also made new upper brackets to pull the radiator closer to the core support. Now I know many of you have cut and moved the core support out (I would prefer to do this too) but I suffer from an acute case of "lackawelder". So I had to make due.

So now everything fits. The question of serpentine upgrade is raised here every now and then and since I did this on a 351W and is somewhat different than the 5.0 upgrade, I hope it may help some others in the future.

Here are some part numbers for reference:

Upper radiator hose: Goodyear XL60625 (1968 Pontiac GT with 400ci)
Fan belt: Dayco 5060775
Water pump: FMS-M-8501-C50
A/C Eliminator Kit: FMS-M-8511-A50 Accessory bracket P/S: FMS-M-8511-A351

Bill

jdevon
03/19/06, 03:22 PM
holy crap, that's a good looking engine. nice job! thanks for the writeup.

COBlu77
03/19/06, 03:45 PM
Congratulations! Looks great.

sixtysick
03/19/06, 08:38 PM
I want to thank all the folks that answered about a million questions that I had during this upgrade. I finally finished it today and now I am just waiting on my RJM EFI harness and I might be on the road shortly.

I wanted to put some pics together and share some of the bumps in the road that I had with my particular application.

What I started with:

Ford Motorsports 351W crate motor (M-6007-S58) that I had setup with carb. Started my SEFI swap and Serp swap at about the same time.

JBG Aluminum 4 core radiator (Howe) with AT cooler.

What I bought:

Serpentine brackets/pulleys from a 1993 Mustang 5.0
A/C eliminator bracket for 351W.
Ford Water pump for Mustang (reverse rotation with DS inlet)
BC Broncos 17" Derale fixed blade fan (CCW)
1/2" Fan spacer

How it all went together:

Serpentine brackets were a direct swap and bolted right up to the waterpump and heads. Pulleys bolted right up. I swapped my V-belt PS pulley for the Mustang (I am running a late model Ford PS Pump). All the brackets and pulleys lined up with no spacers required. I also upgraded to a 160 amp 3G from RJM (can't beat his price) at the same time. You have to notched the alternator bracket slightly to allow the 3G to fit (see pick). A 1/2" fan spacer is plenty to keep the fan out of the belt (might be different with a flex fan). With my setup (PS, Alt, WP, Crank, A/C eliminator, no smog pump) I needed a 77.5" belt (Dayco 5060775).

You have to notch the stock fan shroud around the tensioner pulley arm slightly (about 1/2 - 3/4 inch).

The main issue that I ran into with the upgrade was due to my aftermarket aluminum radiator (you will probably not have these issues with a stock radiator). Since mine was about 4" thick, the fan ran way to close to the radiator at the bottom. I put a BCB fan guard on the radiator and the fan hit the guard. The solution was to cut the bottom mounting bracket to slide it back about 3/4 inch. I also made new upper brackets to pull the radiator closer to the core support. Now I know many of you have cut and moved the core support out (I would prefer to do this too) but I suffer from an acute case of "lackawelder". So I had to make due.

So now everything fits. The question of serpentine upgrade is raised here every now and then and since I did this on a 351W and is somewhat different than the 5.0 upgrade, I hope it may help some others in the future.

Here are some part numbers for reference:

Upper radiator hose: Goodyear XL60625 (1968 Pontiac GT with 400ci)
Fan belt: Dayco 5060775
Water pump: FMS-M-8501-C50
A/C Eliminator Kit: FMS-M-8511-A50 Accessory bracket P/S: FMS-M-8511-A351

Bill

You take that Dayco belt off there... and then you will be set.

I can get you the equivalent in a Gates belt if you so desire.

J

bax
03/19/06, 09:04 PM
Very nice work, looks great.

bax

72BlueBronco
03/19/06, 09:56 PM
Nice job. Thanks for the good info.

I see a write up in Bronco Driver in your furture. ;D

70EB
03/20/06, 06:39 AM
Sixtysick,

What is the issue with the Dayco belt. Seems that Dayco is all the local parts places are selling.

Labbster
03/20/06, 11:45 AM
I have said it before........freaking AWESOME!

70EB
03/20/06, 12:46 PM
Thanks for the comments everyone. One project done and many more to go. I just found a deal on a rear axle that may open up a whole can of worms (Sterling 10.25 with 4.56 gears, 35 spine FF). I may put that in the back of the garage until I look a doing a FW front end. I could not get that kind of strength in the stock 9" for 10 times what I can get the 10.25 for. Has the early non-metric wheel pattern and I can put discs on it.

Labbster - should be getting my EFI harness shortly and finally finish the SEFI conversion. I'll let you know how it goes.

bfoldy
03/20/06, 06:27 PM
Looks really good as others have already mentioned. I've always enjoyed seeing pictures of your engine compartment. It gives me something to shoot for.

I'd be interested in seeing what you did with the L bracket and lower radiator mount. I have the same radiator and water pump and it looks like I'm running into the same clearance issue. In fact, figuring this out is one of my things to do this week. You say you cut the lower mount and slid it back about 3/4". Can you give a little more detail or possibly add a picture of this?

sixtysick
03/20/06, 07:21 PM
Sixtysick,

What is the issue with the Dayco belt. Seems that Dayco is all the local parts places are selling.

Oh I am sure that the Dayco belt will last a little while. I work for Gates, so I am partial to their belts... plus that have a lifetime warranty. You can go to any Oreilly and pick up a gates micro v of any length.

jeff

70EB
03/21/06, 06:47 AM
What I did was to cut the part of the "U" off that is closest to the core support. The rubber/urethane rad bushing will still fit. I then drilled a new hole in the core support rad mount that was 3/4 closer to the core support. Bolted right in and moved the rad in closer and gave me some more fan clearance.

The top mounts are shown in the previous pictures. Let me know if this answered your questions.

Bill

P.S. Just looked closely at my own pic and I should tighten the mounting bolt down some more :-[

Looks really good as others have already mentioned. I've always enjoyed seeing pictures of your engine compartment. It gives me something to shoot for.

I'd be interested in seeing what you did with the L bracket and lower radiator mount. I have the same radiator and water pump and it looks like I'm running into the same clearance issue. In fact, figuring this out is one of my things to do this week. You say you cut the lower mount and slid it back about 3/4". Can you give a little more detail or possibly add a picture of this?

bfoldy
03/21/06, 03:48 PM
Bill, Thanks for taking the time to take a picture of the lower radiator mount. That helps a lot.

Madgyver
10/17/06, 10:58 AM
Bill,
Do you have any updated pics? Nice work!
madgyver

70EB
10/17/06, 02:47 PM
Mad,

Wife left on a trip with the digital camera and will be back on SAT. Any specific area you are looking for? Let me know and I'll take some pics for ya.

FYI - the BCB 17" Derale fan is LOUD. I need to look at other options because it really howls too much. Pulls a metric ass-ton of air though;D

Bill

broncoitis
12/16/10, 12:30 AM
70EB,

Just checked out the thread! Nice job! Engine compartment looks SWEET and an awesome writeup to boot.

stupidboy
12/16/10, 06:46 AM
The swap turned out very nice and your engine compartment looks great, I'm wondering if there is any way around the crossover pipe for the lower hose?

70EB
12/16/10, 11:44 AM
Thanks guys. Its all sitting in the garage while I am stuck in iraq.

Several different ways for the lower crossover:

1. Stock or aftermarket radiator = crossover pipe (BCB or other vendors)
1a. Stock or aftermarket radiator = Superduty diesel (90s something - use search here - discussion several months ago for application)
2. Aftermarket radiator from vendors (Ron Davis) with the inlet/outlets reversed for serp setup.
3. Use a 94 Explorer 4.0 radiator and stock Explorer hoses (if going with Explorer serp setup) Search for Dan Wheeler or Fungus for examples.

Guys can correct me if there are other options. I would have went with the Superduty hose if I had known about it (much like the GTO upper hose)