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3/4 ton Full Width

SteveR77

Full Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
185
Loc.
Greenbrier,Arkansas
I did a search but didn't come up with much and this topic, may have already been beat to death but I would like to put 3/4 ton full width axles under my project 77' truck and was wondering which trucks a the best donors to get them from.I would like maybe go with Dana 70 rear and 60 up front. I will probably stay with the C wedges also. Thanks Steve
 

Apogee

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Nov 26, 2005
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It depends on what you want to do, but the 77.5-79 F250 trucks had the HD Dana 44 with disc brakes and high-pinion diffs in the front. The 78-79 F250 Snowfighter trucks and F350's had the uber-desirable HP Dana 60's in the front but are getting harder to find and very $$$. The rear Dana 60's from those trucks really aren't worth much...you're better off finding a Dana 70 or running a later Sterling 10.25/10.50.

Anything earlier in the 70's isn't worth much IMO.
 
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SteveR77

Full Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
185
Loc.
Greenbrier,Arkansas
Apogee said:
It depends on what you want to do, but the 77.5-79 F250 trucks had the HD Dana 44 with disc brakes and high-pinion diffs in the front. The 78-79 F250 Snowfighter trucks and F350's had the uber-desirable HP Dana 60's in the front but are getting harder to find and very $$$. The rear Dana 60's from those trucks really aren't worth much...you're better off finding a Dana 70 or running a later Sterling 10.25/10.50.

Anything earlier in the 70's isn't worth much IMO.
What's a Sterling 10.25/10.50??
 

Deezel_dusten

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Jun 7, 2005
Messages
133
Loc.
Walla Walla, Wa
A sterling is the rear end out of the 89 and newer F-250's/350's
If you want to go with radius arms, it is bit of work, but not to bad.
I recommend getting a 70 rear, and 44 front, but for all that work, you might as well find a 60, from a 78-79
 
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SteveR77

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Greenbrier,Arkansas
I used to have a 02' dodge 3/4 with a Dana 60 front and a Dana 70 rear ,has anyone ever tried the ones from a dodge 3/4 ton. I really liked the one in my 02'. My o5' has American brand in it and I don't care for them as much as the dana's. Maybe I'll call some bone yards and see if I can find some o2' Dana's out of a Dodge( I know I may catch some sh** for using Dodge but Hey they are Dana's);D
 

kb6677

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Jan 19, 2004
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Couple of things to add-comments posted earlier have merit and some interesting ideas..... anyway, why go with a "3/4 front end-it is STILL a Dana 44 HP, just has 8lug stuff on the ends and LEAF springs front.....If you want full width, do an axle set from a '78/79 Bronco or F150-there is your full width, 5lug stuff and high pinion front....wedges are there for your radius arms you mentioned wanting to run and cheaper. Not to step on anyone's toes, but the advice on running a sterling 10.25-yes on strength,but gear selection is reduced over the D60 and parts are a bit higher as well as initial cost to purchase the axle. Yes a rear 70 is beefer than a 60-ease of 35 spline, some even came with 35spline axles. Depending on your right foot and areas you wheel-you may want to save up and get a front D60 when you do your full width conversion :)
HTH
 

Apogee

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One reason to go with the 3/4 ton Dana 44 HP is because you are guaranteed to get 3/8" tube wall thickness whereas some of the earlier 1/2 ton Dana 44's have thinner tubes. The 3/4 ton knuckles are also machined for high-steer arms on the driver side already, so that's a consideration as well. You could always swap to the 5-lug outers if you wanted to stick with 5-lug wheels. I'm not a huge fan of the cast in "C" wedges of the 78-79 1/2 ton Dana 44 but that's just my bias. If I were looking to wrist it or something then different story.

I stated earlier that the Dana 60's really aren't the best axle and I'll stand by that. For a full-floater, there are better options out there even if the Dana 60 has a slight gearing advantage over most of them. I would build a 35 spline 9" over a Dana 60...but again, just my preference. If you're a throttle junky and running big tires, you can never have too strong of a rear end.
 

kb6677

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"One reason to go with the 3/4 ton Dana 44 HP is because you are guaranteed to get 3/8" tube wall thickness whereas some of the earlier 1/2 ton Dana 44's have thinner tubes"
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I don't know how hard you boys on Or. beat on your front ends but in our area I have seen very few front axle tubes/housings crack unless they were trying to jump the rig.
My rec. for Steve makes sense if you consider the INTERNALS-when you do a full width D44 what do you order for gears, shafts and ujoints-D44 stuff. In our area the ujoints and shafts seem to be the common broken parts- That is why I said a Dana 44 is a Dana 44-you still have parts internally that will break. If he is upgrading for width/stability he does not need to go through the hassle of an 8 lug 44 over a standard 5 on 5.5 which is cheaper to find and EASIER to put under an eb. If he is upgrading for strength then 3/4 ton or half ton whatever, internally it is still a D44 and WILL break. If strength is the issue save up and do a Dana 60 front and be done with it. There are also several companies who are doing various versions of the 9 with 3" tubes and F450/550 knuckles/outers-they are however much more expensive.
Lastly, on the sterling, strength is as I said earlier great, however, they seem to have a rock magnet on the bottoms that like to attach them to many more rocks than old faithful D60. Check the ring and pinion offerings and the sterling does NOT have as many lower geared possibilities-obviously can be a non point with a doubler or an Atlas but again more $$.
 

45acp

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Nov 11, 2003
Messages
488
Loc.
Texarkana AR
In unshaven form, the Sterling has better ground clearance than the D60 (believe it or not). The problem is you cant really shave the Sterling.
 
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SteveR77

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Jan 16, 2004
Messages
185
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Greenbrier,Arkansas
kb6677 said:
"One reason to go with the 3/4 ton Dana 44 HP is because you are guaranteed to get 3/8" tube wall thickness whereas some of the earlier 1/2 ton Dana 44's have thinner tubes"
*******************************************
I don't know how hard you boys on Or. beat on your front ends but in our area I have seen very few front axle tubes/housings crack unless they were trying to jump the rig.
My rec. for Steve makes sense if you consider the INTERNALS-when you do a full width D44 what do you order for gears, shafts and ujoints-D44 stuff. In our area the ujoints and shafts seem to be the common broken parts- That is why I said a Dana 44 is a Dana 44-you still have parts internally that will break. If he is upgrading for width/stability he does not need to go through the hassle of an 8 lug 44 over a standard 5 on 5.5 which is cheaper to find and EASIER to put under an eb. If he is upgrading for strength then 3/4 ton or half ton whatever, internally it is still a D44 and WILL break. If strength is the issue save up and do a Dana 60 front and be done with it. There are also several companies who are doing various versions of the 9 with 3" tubes and F450/550 knuckles/outers-they are however much more expensive.
Lastly, on the sterling, strength is as I said earlier great, however, they seem to have a rock magnet on the bottoms that like to attach them to many more rocks than old faithful D60. Check the ring and pinion offerings and the sterling does NOT have as many lower geared possibilities-obviously can be a non point with a doubler or an Atlas but again more $$.
I'm going Full width more for stability than anything!!!I'll just check some more,I'm in the early stages of my build so I have plenty of time to look.I was thinking 3/4 ton because it would look awsome but i really would be fine with a 9 inch and a 44. I like new stuff because seems like every time i buy old it cost me more in the long run. I thank i'll call Currie and get a quote!!!;) Thanks for the help , Keep them coming Steve
 

MikeEB

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Apr 29, 2005
Messages
414
Loc.
Grand Junction, CO
SteveR72 said:
I'm going Full width more for stability than anything!!!I'll just check some more,I'm in the early stages of my build so I have plenty of time to look.I was thinking 3/4 ton because it would look awsome but i really would be fine with a 9 inch and a 44. I like new stuff because seems like every time i buy old it cost me more in the long run. I thank i'll call Currie and get a quote!!!;) Thanks for the help , Keep them coming Steve


If you go the half ton route I'd look at 76-77 F150. HP44 and 31spl 9. Front is also welded on wedges so easy to setup for Bronco arms and is disk brakes. But hey that's what I run, so maybe I am a little biased. Personally, I'd call up Rockcrusher if I had plenty of coin laying around to spend on new axles ;D.
 

68 Broncoholic

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Messages
1,742
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WA
D60 rears aren't as strong as a D70 by a long shot. When I had to decide between a 14 bolt and D70 it was an easy pick. The bottom of the 14 bolt has what I call finger grabbers for rocks where the D70 is smooth on the bottom.
 

BroncoBoy72

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Sep 30, 2004
Messages
357
Loc.
Marana Arizona
As far as the Sterling not having enough gear selection compared to the D60 rear. Im running 538`s in mine do you need any lower? There has been numerous threads on Pirate about how a 1/2ton 9in is stronger then a 3/4 or 1 ton D60. To add once more the HP44 3/4 is a good axle, with some 4340 shafts and some ctms your just as strong as a stock D60 minus the weight and clearance. But if you have the cheddar the D60 HP with 35 spline inner and outters are the way to go to make it bullet proof.
 

45acp

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Nov 11, 2003
Messages
488
Loc.
Texarkana AR
You can also get 7:17's for the Sterling and if thats not low enough you need to go to the Kubota dealership. ;D :p
 
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SteveR77

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How much Lift do you need in order to not have problems with a high pinion in the Front??? I thought I read somewhere about needing a certain lift in order to clear such things as headers,oil pans,etc. Steve
 

Apogee

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SteveR72 said:
How much Lift do you need in order to not have problems with a high pinion in the Front??? I thought I read somewhere about needing a certain lift in order to clear such things as headers,oil pans,etc. Steve

I've always heard 3.5" but I think that is more of an issue when the full-width axle is narrowed from the long side only, shifting the center section towards the middle half the length removed.
 
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