front driveshaft bind?

I have a 5.5inch lift with extended radius arms. They have 4degree c bushings in them. I just put my front driveshaft back in and binds a little. I can turn it by hand but it does get a little tight and when I drive it in 4wd it is definately going to be a problem and break the driveshaft again. What can I really do to fix this. I don't want to spend a ton for a high angle driveshaft. But I am willing to buy a new driveshaft just not more than $350. I'm not really sure if grinding the driveshaft down where it may be hitting will work because what will happen when I have a little or a lot of flex. Does maybe one of the vendors have a decent one that will work better than stock. I know alot of you guys have 5.5inch lifts, what do you do.
I also put a slip yoke from a rear driveshaft onto the front one because its a little longer than the stock front slip yoke. So reaching the pinion and length is not the issue here.
thanks josh

Are you saying the u-joint angle at the axle end is too steep?

I would start by switching to the 7 degree bushings. No problem on mine. I am still running the stock front driveshaft.

Now that I jinxed myself I should swap the stock one out.%)

Adding 7 degree bushing would only add to the bind situation by steepening the pinion angle.

What extended arms do you have?

The rig I just finished building for Davis has 5.5" lift, HP D44, 7-degree bushings and 14" extended arms with no drop on the arm brackets. We had to 'clearance' the CV joint on that pretty carefully to gain some angle on the front driveshaft. That involves the judicious use of a die grinder and some patience (CV assy/disassembly..several times) ..marking each place on the H-yoke, centering yoke and T-case yoke that binding occurs and massaging off material to increase the max angle.

I am using the tomsbroncoparts older style ext radius arms with out the bend for the wheel clearance. It seems to bind where the cv collar is up at the transfer case. Would a driveshaft that only uses one universal at each end and still has the slip yoke be better off?

I have a duff's 3.5" lift and stock arms and mine was binding as well. I called a couple of the vendors and they said just take a grinder and clearance the recesses a little more. It worked fine for me, just be careful not to get into the ears since that might weaken it a little.

What I ended up doing with my old D44 was ditching the CV driveline and oval yoke on the t-case and adding a single offset u-joint and you will need a square yoke (single u-joint style) on the t-case end.
Its a spendy joint but its warranty is life time. Read up on it. Its not meant for high speed in 4x4. Speeds over 45mph I think you might start to feel a vibration but they flex like mad without bind. Of course this means a new driveline but its cheaper than a CV style.

http://4xshaft.com/index.html