View Full Version : Crossmember issue with axle moved forward?

03/26/07, 07:12 PM
I just finished moving my rear axle back 6" and want to move the front forward 3" with Cage arms. My rig has the stock PS box, Chebby 1 ton TRO and 4 1/2" coils. It looks like the drag link will be directly under the crossmember and upon compressing the passenger front wheel hit the crossmember. Am I tripping out or what? I'm thinking of changing to the 4x4 box with the forward arm but the drag link to tie rod connection will still be under the crossmember. If I lower the box when it's moved forward I'll also need to lower the track bar, right? Which could then hit the axle housing. How did you guys who've moved your axle forward avoided this problem? Or is it a problem?

03/27/07, 07:29 AM
I never had a rear facing pitman arm when I moved mine.
But I also just cut out that front crossmember and replaced it with some 2.5 inch tube.
That gave me a lot of room (My ram was hitting it) and IMO cleaned up the look of the bronco.

03/27/07, 08:11 AM
Thanks. That sounds like it would take care of the problem. Mine is ram assist, not full hydro like yours but do you have any pictures of your setup?

Gummi Bear
03/27/07, 01:26 PM
I was planning on a piece of 2" DOM to replace that x-member with.

03/27/07, 03:05 PM
I just stopped by Wild Horses on my way home and checked out a rolling chasis they have in the showroom. Talking with Jim and Rich it looks like cutting off the bottom of the crossmember flush with the bottom of the frame and plating the it with a piece of 1/4" will work. Then the diagonal braces behind the crossmember can stay. Then add another 2 or 3" brace at the front end of the frame. Think that will work?

03/27/07, 03:24 PM
Cut the whole thing out, I can't find a pic of mine, but that factory crossmember is ugly, full of factory bird poop welds, and in the way.
My cross member, well the first one was 2 .120 round, but it got bent (I use it as a roller point for my winch to suck the front end down on climbs)
Now its 2.5 1/4 wall (way over kill, it was my trailer axle that blew up on me, hey good steel is good steel)

03/27/07, 04:35 PM
You're right Welndmn. I just measured it and there would only be an inch left in it. I'll cut it out and move it. And I like the idea of having a place to pull down the front end too.
And here's another issue just pointed out by my buddy Crawlin68. The front body mount will be able to hit the tires during turn/compression. Did you guys move yours? I'm trying to get the thing finished before Moab so there's no time to tube the front. As you can see there a lot of work to be done.

03/27/07, 07:19 PM
Depends on your width.
I am wider then most are long, but I am narrowing in the comming months.
Ingore the mess, its right from a trip and came back pretty beat up and I have yet to want to fix it.

03/28/07, 07:47 AM
I am having this same issue right now with my build- front moved forward 5". Everything is tacked into place. You are right the tracbar hits the crossmember even at ride height with 3.5" springs. I cant really move the tracbar mount forward on the frame because then it will need to be right under the steering box (F150 4x4 box forward arm). I cant design it around the steering box/brace and have it strong enough.

I think im going to leave the tracbar to frame mount were it is and either chop off the crossmember and plate it or cut it out altogether and build another like welndmn. It doesnt look like chopping it off even with the frame will work... it may still hit when the passenger side tire stuffs.

As far as hitting the bodymount when turning, there is plenty of room however im running a 67" wide frontend. Wheels are 15x9's with 4" backspacing and 36" iroks.

03/28/07, 08:48 AM
Thanks for the pics Mark. Now THAT'S a crossmember!

45acp. I've been following your build on Pirate. Very nice work.

It looks like I found a 4x4 box so I'll be running it unmodified like yours. The Cage arms go in this weekend and hope to have to box for mock up by next week. Then off to West Texas Offroad for the hydro tap.

Yep, fullwidth would solve the bodymount issue but it's not D60 time yet. :mad: Still running the stock 44 with 1 1/8" spacers on the front, 15x10 wheels converted to beadlocks so more like 11" wide and 37x14.5x15 Toyos. I'm 82" wide but the width of the tire is killing the clearance on the inside. It looks like with the stock box out of the way the bodymounts can be moved in almost over the frame and the rest cut off.

03/28/07, 12:39 PM
If you need any specific pics just holler and ill post them up in this thread. I also built a seperate steering box brace crossmember type thingy. If you're going with the 4x4 box now is the time to beef up your frame around the area were the box will mount. :)

04/02/07, 08:22 AM
Yup, I am fitting new tires, and itsall over the body mount.
I think I am goint to move the body mount to the top of the frame to clear it.

04/02/07, 08:33 AM
The axle is now 4" forward. I plan to move the body mounts so the bolt is just outside of the frame. There's already a factory hole in the frame bracket. I hope that's enough. The battery has to move inside the cab and the front of the inner fenders will need to be cut way up. Maybe hitting the core support about half way up. Tubing the front clip is definitely in the future.