View Full Version : Body panel replacement sequence


JHD
04/02/07, 01:38 PM
I'm getting real close to replacing some body pannels and wanted to know if there is any order it should be done in. Here is what I was planing on.

Put body back on frame. Brace at doors. Replace in this order: floor pans > kick panel > door hinge post > inner fender > core support. I figured I could weld in the floor pans, door post, and kick pannels then use sheet metal screws to line up the inner fenders and core support. Any thoughts? Am I going to need a hood to get the core support lined up before I weld? Should I mount the doors before fully welding the hinge post?

willtel
04/02/07, 01:51 PM
I'm tagging along on this one, I have pretty much the same questions about the inner fender panels and the core support. Wish I could help more.

sevenTseven
04/02/07, 02:21 PM
Make that three people who will be following this thread closely.

Also really curious about the proper sequence to prevent the whole thing from coming apart before my eyes.

surfer-b
04/02/07, 02:28 PM
When you get the body back on go ahead and put on the doors, and fenders, check alignment and gaps around the doors, then start in the order you listed, yes its very time consuming putting all that stuff on and taken off but in the end its worth it. IMO there is nothing that looks worse than where somene tried to replace a post and the door is high in front or back or the gaps do not line up.

JHD
04/02/07, 02:42 PM
What if I already removed one of the hinge post???

JHD
04/02/07, 02:49 PM
Oh yea. The entire front clip is gone so I can't mount the outer fenders.

What does IMO stand for?

jn2630
04/02/07, 08:10 PM
I have never done this, but from watching the bronco episodes from "Trucks!", Stacey David always says to start at your lowest point. He started at the rocker panels.

Kidney
04/02/07, 11:26 PM
What does IMO stand for?


"In my opinion"

surfer-b
04/03/07, 07:08 AM
Sorry for the delay here, well I would start with the floor pans but only tack them in a few spots, from here on out all you are going to be doing is a pre-fab up of everything, as I said, start with the pans go to the inner kick panel then the door post, do you still have the factory rocker in place, is it going to be replaced, if so this will be easier to do before the post is in or work them in together. I would hang the door and make sure everything alligns up good its easy to make adjustments now, if everything is where you want it cross brace the post and remove the door. From here start with the inner fender panels, this is where its going to be critical to get measurements, you prob need someone to help with this in order to get it square, tack the inner-f-pannels in place now put the core support in place and check diagonal measurments, mounting of body to the frame. Hang the fenders and put the hood on and check allignment, I'm assuming you will be replceing the inner fenders set them up check allignment. There is a lot of work here but if you take your time you will get it, I hope you have a good mig welder if not go get the best you can afford and practice with it on the same gage metal you will be using on your bronco this will make life much more simple. I'm sure there are guys here who have much more exper. in body replcement than I maybe they will throw in some suggestions. Good Luck

JHD
04/03/07, 07:19 AM
do you still have the factory rocker in place, is it going to be replaced,
Factory rockers are in place and will stat. The outer pannel is rusted out and will be choped off for rock skis. The inner rocker appears to be in good shape.

I would hang the door and make sure everything alligns up good its easy to make adjustments now,

How should the post be temporally set to support the door. Spot welds? Will sheet metal screws work? I figured this would be easier to remove adjust and reattach than spot welds.

surfer-b
04/03/07, 12:23 PM
give it a shot, won't hurt to try if doesn't work you can always tack in a few places

tsmustangs
04/03/07, 09:02 PM
A few pics in my gallery might help. But here's a helpful hint. For the front start on the inside work your way out and measure and measure and measure. Get lots of clamps. Take digital photo's with a measurement in them. They are a valuable reference. And then I use the metal self starting screws to assy everything for a test fit. And when I'm happy with the progress I remove a screw, weld up the hole. It's slow and long but worth it in the end.

Terry

JHD
04/04/07, 09:57 AM
For the front start on the inside work your way out and measure and measure and measure. Get lots of clamps. Take digital photo's with a measurement in them.

This was my first mistake. I tore the off the inner aprons, 1/2 of the kick panels, one door post, and core support about a year ago. Did not measure or take any pics. I plan on having the body back on the frame and replacing sheet metal by the end of the month.... If there is anybody in CS who would let me take some pics and measurements it would be greatly appriciated.

surfer-b
04/05/07, 07:45 AM
The only bad thing about measurments from another is they prob won't line up, it may get you close but thats about it, just about every one that I have worked on have diff final fits, shims behind the hood hinges, amount the fenders are shimed, dooor shims, ect,ect. I can get some measurements for ya, maybe this will get you close, I will check both my 74 and 76 and see what I have it will be FRI. before i'm able to post.
I noticed one diff from my 74 and 76 when I took the front clip off of the 76, where the hood latch's to the grill, on the 74 it bolts directly to the core support, 3 bolts, on the 76 there are spacers about .75" between the grill and the core support. The only part Ford could have changed is the part the the latch goes into because the hood length never changed.

JHD
04/05/07, 08:00 AM
I can get some measurements for ya, maybe this will get you close, I will check both my 74 and 76 and see what I have it will be FRI. before i'm able to post.

That would be awesome. I know that I will still have to test fit everything before welding it all up. I just thought measurements would be a better starting place than taking a guess. No rush on it though. I will be out of town this weekend, sandblast and POR frame and axles next weekend, then hopefully mount the body back up the following week. I said i'm close but in reality it's probably 3-4 weeks before I start on floor pans. After 2 years of tearing stuff apart with no money to replace it (first mistake) i'm just so excited to be making foward progress I jumped the gun!

Thanks for all the help guys!